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Message Board > Fitting Woes > How much, if any, should pants fabric bunch at the crotch when sitting? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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How much, if any, should pants fabric bunch at the crotch when sitting?
amysayssew
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amysayssew
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Date: 4/13/10 8:17 PM

Is it normal for pants to bunch at the crotch when I sit?

I am sewing a pair of drawstring pants (3rd time; still working on fit). I am almost ready to sew, but realized today that when I sit, there is a tent of fabric at the crotch. What does that mean?

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minggiddylooloo
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minggiddylooloo  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/13/10 8:29 PM

I'm eager to hear what our PR experts have to say on this one.

I've been working on the third toile for a pair of pants for DH and while they look perfect when he is standing up, when he sits down there is bunching. We had him try on his RTW pants and same thing.

I have been looking at magazine ads for pants with models sitting down and there is poofage, but not as much as my pants. I wonder if that's fixed for the photo shoot, or whether I'm much further from the "perfect" pants pattern than I thought I was.

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Dzynurbrian

Dzynurbrian
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AZ USA
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Date: 4/13/10 8:44 PM

I think that's inevitable. I could be wrong but here is my logic anyways.

The pelvis measurements (F & B) vary depending on your position. Standing, the front crotch depth is generally around 1" smaller than the back crotch length. Of course take into consideration your body type. Some people have fuller tummies below the waistband line, some people have full bottoms.

At any rate when you sit, the front pelvis becomes more shallow and the back becomes fuller as you're rotating your posture and leg at the hip joint.
So, in the sitting position you're creating more tension along the back crotch length and the front crotch length subsequently creates the tent.

This is really common in pants with zipper flies because of course the zipper teeth often aren't as flexible as the fabric.

I would suggest taking your crotch length measurement by measuring from navel through crotch to small of back where you favor your pants to fit. Also do this measure sitting down and see if you get any variance. It sounds like you may need to balance the crotch lengths to remove a little of the excess in the front and move it to the back while still retaining the same length.

I know that's confusing. As an example if your crotch length is 28" and on the finished garment the front crotch length is 12" and the back is 16". Perhaps you need to maintain 28" but make the front crotch length 11" and the back 17".

Again, I could be totally off target because fine tuning pants isn't something that I've done for a LONG time. So definitely see what others have to say as well.
-- Edited on 4/13/10 8:46 PM --

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Elona
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In reply to amysayssew


Date: 4/13/10 9:00 PM

What you're experiencing is a crotch depth (the vertical distance from your waistband to the bones you sit on) that is too long. In other words, the crotch seam is hanging a tad too low on you. The usual remedy is a tuck taken at right angles to the grainline. It is possible that you might need this only in the front pattern piece, in which case you will have to re-draw the crotch curve slightly so that there's a smooth curve from front to back.

Here's one of the many links to this alteration.

Michelle T

Michelle T
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In reply to minggiddylooloo


Date: 4/13/10 11:17 PM

Remember men need extra crotch depth and space.

I have to take a 1/2 fold off the front height of slacks, removed just above the crotch line. I am short waisted and also have a tilted waist and need to remove extra fabric.

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tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/14/10 0:46 AM

I would think that drawstring pants would have extra ease and not need too much fitting?

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amysayssew
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amysayssew
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In reply to tourist


Date: 4/14/10 3:54 PM

When I sewed the pants for the first time, I found that the ease was too much. When I wear them, I have to hold up them up as I tie the drawstring or they'll fall right to the floor.

With my second pair, I took in the side seams so that as I'm about to tie them, my hips catch the fabric (they don't fall to the floor). However, I noticed that when I sit, the fabric pulls down at the back waist. I used Fast Fit to add length to the center back waist and to add length to the crotch hook on the back piece.

Now, for my third try, I cut out the fabric in a quilting cotton (linen was getting to be too expensive), and found that the pants bunched in the front when sitting. Last night, I pinned the pants so that there was about 1 inch less fabric added to the back crotch hook and that seems to have solved the problem.

Although now I've noticed that the pants are a little too tight in the hips and am taking the side seams out a little (not sure why the difference here between my second pair (in linen) and these; maybe it's caused by the difference in fabric).

I know that I shouldn't find it to so difficult to alter a pair of drawstring pants, but it seems that I can't find a good balance with the ease. First there was too much. Now there's not enough.
-- Edited on 4/14/10 3:55 PM --

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goodworks1
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Date: 4/15/10 2:19 PM

I think anything you do to learn what the right fit is will be helpful for future pants sewing/fitting. What you are doing is normal, in my opinion...

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