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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Trouble making a long sleeve t-shirt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Trouble making a long sleeve t-shirt
Have I over-adjusted, should I give up?
whirrclunk
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whirrclunk
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Date: 4/24/10 10:48 AM

I am failing to make a long-sleeve t-shirt. I'm making the boat-neck from Sew U Home Stretch book. Unfortunately there is no line drawing that I can show; it's the top in the middle of the front cover, the stripy one, that I am trying to make.

My end result looks pretty bad. Many wrinkles, drooping, back neckline gaposis...







More photos

I'm happy to give up on this version but I really like boat-neck tops and would really like to get a better result next time. I think that I need at least a sway back adjustment, to narrow the shoulders, and to start off with a smaller size, but I don't know how to fix the rest. All help much appreciated!

I made the following adjustments from the pattern:

- I didn't trust myself to make a good job of the topstitched neckline so made a small cowl in the front and a facing in the back (maybe this was the start of my problems...)
- used sleeves (but not the sleeve caps) from a similar pattern in the book as the ones on this pattern stayed the same width all the way down which I thought would look bad on me (I'm quite small)
- took the hem up
- took the sleeves and side seams in a size post-construction, also curved them in a bit to try to get some shape

Front and back views before taking in the side seams, sorry it's hard to see in these photos.

Have I made too many changes? Do I need to start again? Should I give up...

Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
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In reply to whirrclunk


Date: 4/24/10 10:53 AM

Please measure your upper bust & make that size. Small or Xtra- Small. I think a lot of your problems are that it is just too big for you. Once you get the fit closer to your actual size, hopefully the fit gurus will assist further.

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/24/10 10:59 AM

I think its too big too. Make a smaller size.

whirrclunk
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whirrclunk
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Date: 4/24/10 11:30 AM

Thank you for such quick replies!

I've just looked at the size chart again, thinking, 'Bah there is no upper bust measurement, just bust,' but it looks like I was wrong all along, they have 'chest, waist and hips'. I'm guessing that chest is upper bust, rather than bust, and that's why I've ended up looking like I'm wearing a tent...!

Julia C, it looks like the XS is the way to go... I'm off to adjust my tracing and start again.

Thank you!!

ETA: corrected typo
-- Edited on 4/24/10 11:33 AM --

ryansmumAria
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ryansmumAria
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In reply to whirrclunk


Date: 4/24/10 11:42 AM

Hopefully this is just your practice garment and not your good fabric. If not, then this is what we call a "teachable moment". The first attempt at a new patter is a trial run and you use a similar fabric until you work out the fitting problems. You do this over and over until it looks great.

This pattern is a couple sizes too big for you. You need to pinch out the excess.
If this is your good fabric you might try removing the sleeves and re working the front and back. Open up the side seams and fit the bodice by pin fitting until you don't have all the excess. Re cut the side seams and armhole so it fits.

Make the changes to your pattern as well so you can re work your sleeve to fit the armhole then re cut the sleeve since it is also toio big.
Pin fit the sleeve.

Pin fit by putting wrong sides together at the seam line and pin your seams closed so that the seams are on the outside.

As for a sway back, around the waistline you take reduce the center back horizontally by fold out the excess on your pattern (this requires tissue fitting or muslin fitting.)


-- Edited on 4/24/10 11:44 AM --

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ryansmumAria
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In reply to ryansmumAria


Date: 4/24/10 1:08 PM

I just saw a similar example of your problem and it's solution.

Go here...

http://agnic.msu.edu/cgi-bin/library?e=d-000-00---0usda--00-0-0--0prompt-10---4------0-1l--1-es-50---20-help---00031-001-1-0cp866-00&cl=CL2.1&d=HASH01a70bab1ce1a89b538be722&x=1


It is half way down under
"Adjustments in Suit Jacket and Coat"
"Crosswise wrinkle above waistline."

Aria

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"I am still learning" ~ Michelangelo
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I finally have a blog!
You can visit it at
www.zigzagthesewingrag.blogspot.com

EveS
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EveS  Friend of PR
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In reply to whirrclunk


Date: 4/24/10 1:35 PM

Quote: whirrclunk
I've just looked at the size chart again, thinking, 'Bah there is no upper bust measurement, just bust,' but it looks like I was wrong all along, they have 'chest, waist and hips'. I'm guessing that chest is upper bust, rather than bust, and that's why I've ended up looking like I'm wearing a tent

Just wanted to clarify something...

Even if there is no "upper bust" or "chest" msmt listed, you will still want to use your upper bust msmt for what they call "bust." This is especially true for the "Big" 4 and probably KwikSew, too, as they all tend to run huge. Otherwise, you will get what you got. If the difference between your upper and full bust msmts are more than 2", then you will need to do a FBA, but you will have a much better fit thru the back and shoulders.

I do sometimes go by my full bust for Burda and Jalie as the fit is so much different (and I'm broad in my upper back), but this depends on the type of garment and fabric in question, and it takes some trial and error, too.

My first impression was the same as everyone else's....DANG, that's big!! I think sizing down will definitely relieve a lot of your current fit headaches. It looks like that will be a very flattering top on you once you tweak it a little!

Eve

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People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it - Chinese proverb

whirrclunk
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whirrclunk
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In reply to ryansmumAria


Date: 4/24/10 4:33 PM

Thank you for the link! Really clear photos and instructions, and the skirt instructions will come in handy too.

Good news bad news. Yes this was my good fabric but only because I really like the colour; it's inexpensive jersey and last week the shop I bought it from still had some. I'll be heading back there first thing on Monday lunchtime to get more! If it's run out I will try to salvage what I've made so far. It looks like it will be hard to cut the new pieces from it as I've taken it in and hemmed it, so hopefully I will have luck on Monday.

I had thought, I'm only making a t-shirt, it's a beginner's pattern, what can go wrong... Ha ha. I'm now back to left over jersey scraps for the next attempt!

whirrclunk
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whirrclunk
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In reply to EveS


Date: 4/24/10 4:49 PM

Quote: EveS
Even if there is no "upper bust" or "chest" msmt listed, you will still want to use your upper bust msmt for what they call "bust." This is especially true for the "Big" 4 and probably KwikSew, too, as they all tend to run huge. Otherwise, you will get what you got. If the difference between your upper and full bust msmts are more than 2", then you will need to do a FBA, but you will have a much better fit thru the back and shoulders.

Goodness it never occurred to me that I should use my upper bust measurement as the bust measurement for the Big 4. It's all so complicated... I suspect that I've got away with it I am fairly flat so there isn't much difference Having said that it sounds like I need a little FBA, I've found a couple of threads on FBAs on knits so will go though those on my traced pattern and see where I get on jersey scraps.

Thank you! The more I sew the more amazed I am at how much there is to know, and the depth of knowledge of PR users.

ETA: changed a sentence as it didn't make all that much sense.
ETA: and another sentence (it's late evening where I am...)
-- Edited on 4/24/10 5:49 PM --
-- Edited on 4/24/10 6:11 PM --
whirrclunk
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whirrclunk
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Date: 4/25/10 8:58 AM

I started again with an XS and a small FBA (mainly because my head was saying that an XS must surely be too tight). Moved the FBA to the 'centre front control' as per these 1940s instructions. The shoulders in the M I made yesterday were 2cm too wide, the XS only brought them in by 1cm so I narrowed by a further 0.5cm. But coupled with the interfacing that I've now added to the back facing, I'm worried that even after attaching the sleeves the shoulders may be too narrow as they won't stretch...

I made a sway back adjustment as per FFRP (no centre back seam, still plenty of spare material), and a slightly-round-back adjustment, again as per FFRP to try to stop the back neckline from turning outwards. The back neckline still wants to turn out. Maybe the slightly round back adjustment wasn't the right one, and I should be doing a high-round-back one instead...





The middle part of the top still seems too big, but could this be due to the side seams being completely straight? I'm tempted to ditch the cowl and cut the original non-cowl pattern, get that fit right, and then cowl it? Alternatively, ditch my knit stash and go back to wovens...

Have also made a mental note to do all of my muslins in light colours in future in case I get stuck and need help! Sorry that these photos are so bad, I've taken three batches with different camera settings and these are the best ones.

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