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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Hot Patterns notched collar ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Hot Patterns notched collar
discussion and tutorial
Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 7/3/10 11:47 AM

After a long battle in fitting a woven blouse, I think my quest is finally over. Last weekend, I sewed a muslin of HP 1099 princess seam blouse. To my delight, the fit is pretty good and needs only a few minor tweaks.

I cut a second muslin out of an unwanted fabric to test the changes I made and ability to add the notched collar. I cannot express the sheer disappointment and frustration I have with this pattern and its terrible instructions for adding the notched collar. Upon searching the internet and other reviews of this pattern, I have come to learn that the pattern is missing a number of important markings: collar dot, neck dot, shoulder seam.

I am aware of several tutorials posted on the internet and have not had any success in getting the suggestions to work.

Without tutorial
photo 1

With tutorial and diagrams
photo 2
photo 3

I suspect that the problem lies in the lack of markings as I do not know where to match...anything.

PLEASE HELP! What am I doing wrong? I have worked this four times now and get the same shoddy look. I am so close to finally being able to make a blouse and I am irritated that the collar is stopping me.

I emailed HP and Jeremy referred me to the tutorial that produced photos 2 and 3. That did not help.

Thanks.

L
-- Edited on 7/3/10 11:49 AM --

michellep74
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michellep74  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/10 1:05 PM

Your first version looks like my first version of that collar. ;)

Your second attempt actually looks pretty close. In the second one, the general shape is there. I think you maybe just need to clip the seams/around the neckline more--it looks like there's some excess neckline eased into the collar. It's hard to say, though without seeing where the stitching started/stopped on the first step where you started assembling the collar.

I'm in the middle of a quick and easy knit dress right now, but I could use another one of these blouses. If you don't get this figured out in the next day or two, I'll start on another one of these and take pictures at each step w/the collar--hopefully that will make something "click" that hasn't.

Edit: I know that the first time that I made this, the two things that "got" me were the point on the side of the collar piece itself and not clipping into the little notch enough on the neckline piece. Does that make any sense?

Edit2: I forgot to mention...you'll know this if you've read the reviews, but if you get to setting in the sleeve, there is excess ease in the sleeve cap for this pattern. I did a combination of shaving a bit off the cap and running a row of gathering stitches to deal with it in mind. Just wanted to give you a heads up if you get that far.

-- Edited on 7/3/10 1:09 PM --
-- Edited on 7/3/10 1:52 PM --

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 47.63 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 70.5 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 20.5 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
2014 Stash patterns used: 5

Peggy L
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Peggy L  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/10 1:59 PM

I really like this pattern - but the collar is tricky!!! Like Michelle said you need to mark and clip carefully. Pressing is important, to. Did you see Pam's tutorial at Off-the-Cuff Style? That is the one I used.

BTW, my first version looked exactly like yours:):) Most of ours did!!!

------
www.thereisjoyadventures.blogspot.com

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/10 2:36 PM

Thank you Michelle and Peggy!
Yes, I saw the tutorial on Pam's site and this is what produced photos 2 and 3. I clipped into the corner and tried to turn the front piece to match the part of the collar on the short side (make sense?) When I do this, I get a mess of fabric that just does not ease well. This is why there are so many tucks and gathers. It seems as if the corner doesn't want to turn or something.

In the second attempt at the green top (pictures not shown), I trimmed the collar seam and clipped generously. I got the same result as in the pink top.

I would love for the collar to look like this.

I saw that the sleeve had excessive ease in my muslin and in the reviews. I slashed and overlapped the sleeve cap by about 1". I have yet to see if this alteration will work because I got stumped by the collar! Grr...

Thank you all so, so much.

michellep74
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michellep74  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/10 3:20 PM

Well, my collar didn't turn out as nicely as Pam's, but NONE of my collars ever look as nice as Pam's--notched, w/a stand, or otherwise, but I did get a nice little notch/lapel effect, so I know that it DOES work.

I started pre-washing some shirtings--hopefully, we'll get this figured out in the next couple of days.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 47.63 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 70.5 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 20.5 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
2014 Stash patterns used: 5

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/10 4:03 PM

I really appreciate this. I'll definitely work along side as you construct your top. I'll prepare another set of partial pieces in the meantime. Thank you!

JaniceCB
JaniceCB
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CA USA
Member since 4/16/04
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Date: 7/3/10 4:16 PM

I looked and looked and can't find Pam's tutorial on her site. Help, please. Thanks......Janice

michellep74
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michellep74  Friend of PR
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In reply to JaniceCB


Date: 7/3/10 4:23 PM

Pam's HP collar tutorial

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 47.63 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 70.5 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 20.5 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
2014 Stash patterns used: 5

Peggy L
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Peggy L  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/3/10 4:36 PM

None of my collars turn out as nice as Pam's but she is a pro!!! BTW, her interfacing is the best I have used in a long, long time. All of my "stuff" is in storage while I am on an extended road trip or I would join you in the sew along.

------
www.thereisjoyadventures.blogspot.com

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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Date: 7/3/10 7:00 PM

My first collar actually turned out better than my second. Then the third was OK again. I think I just pinned one side of the collar to the neck/lapel edge until I got to the end, and then made sure on the other side that there was an equal distance from the peak of the lapel to the collar.

I did deviate from the pattern and tutorial directions in eliminating the back facing.

So is there going to be a sew-along? I love this pattern and might join in with you all! Going to check the stash for likely fabrics.

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
illustration blog: http://storybooky.wordpress.com/

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