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Jeans waistband - Jalie 2908
Straight grain or bias?
addicted2fabric
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addicted2fabric
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NEW ZEALAND
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Date: 7/11/10 8:20 PM

I am about to make Jalie 2908, from a reasonably heavy-weight stretch denim.
I have made these before but for various reasons never really wore them and now I've put on weight and they dont fit. When I made them last time I cut the waistband on the bias, as directed, but as I never wore the jeans much I have no idea if that was a good thing or not.
I've been reading the numerous reviews for this pattern here and there seems to be about a 50/50 split on placing the waistband on the straight grain as opposed to the bias.
Can someone please explain to me the merits/disadvantages between the two? Why is one better than the other? How does changing the grain effect the way the waistband functions?
Thanks

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Sew Much Fabric, Sew Little Time

Warbler
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Warbler  Friend of PR
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Vermont USA
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Date: 7/11/10 9:39 PM

I don't have an answer for you but I also know there was considerable discussion about using a contoured waistband from other patterns. I am interested in which patterns represents the best countoured waistband. Any recommendations.?

Thinking about the bias verses straight, I would suspect the bias as having more stretch and probably more comfortable, especially to those who have a larger waist... I just check my favorite RTW jeans from llBean and they straight grain waistband. I suppose I could cut one of each when I make my muslin.

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quixoticpixels
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quixoticpixels  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/11/10 10:40 PM

I would opt for a contoured waistband if your waist is significantly smaller than your hips. I used the waistband fromBurda Magazine 04-2009-118, which worked out great for me.

As for the straight grain vs. bias issue, I think that's a matter of personal preference. If you like a bit of give in your waistband--to increase comfort--then cut on the bias. If you want a sturdier, less stretchy waistband, cut on the straight grain. I have a problem with waistbands stretching out too much and my pants sliding downwards on my frame, which I don't like, so I cut on grain.

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Amy
http://quixoticpixels.blogspot.com

TanitIsis
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TanitIsis
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Alberta CANADA
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Date: 7/12/10 12:03 PM

I am in the contoured-waistband camp (and I don't have a large difference between hips and waist... quite the opposite). All my RTW jeans have contoured waistbands, and when you nip in a straight waistband at the centre back to reduce gaping, you get a little dimple in the waistband. Not a big deal, but I'd rather avoid it.

I used the waistband from the Burdastyle Ellen Pants, though I joined the two piece to make a one-piece, cut-on-fold waistband.

If you do go the contour waistband route, you are introducing some stretch back into the mix, so if you (like me) prefer a firm waistband you will probably want to add interfacing. I even tried adding twill tape to my last effort but that didn't go so well---I had to unpick and take it out as I couldn't actually close the pants with it in! (Fully whined about my blog, finished jeans here

AlisonM
AlisonM
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New Jersey USA
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Date: 7/15/10 8:35 AM

A compromise might also be a cross-grain waistband. Not as much stretch as the bias, but a smidge more than on-grain. It depends a lot on the difference in stretch on-grain and cross-grain for the particular fabric. The biggest problem you might get with a bias waistband is that it might twist as it stretches.

Topstitching at the top will keep the top edge from twisting, but the twists will show up between the stitching lines. . .unless you reinforce the waistband with interfacing, which defeats the purpose of using the bias for stretch!

I love contour waistbands, done well, but I think they look a little odd on traditional jeans - just MHO.

SueC56

SueC56  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/9/12 1:20 PM

(late comment on old thread)

Having read Fashion Incubator, she pointed out that there is more shrinkage in the lengthwise grain and less in the crosswise grain. Because of this, she recommends cutting a waistband on the crossgrain, not the lengthwise grain. She didn't address bias cut in that post.

SueC

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Brother NX650, Brother 1034D serger, Janome Coverpro 1000cpx (coverstitch), and Sailrite LSZ-1 for heavy jobs, including top-stitching denim jeans. Wishlist: Pfaff Performance 5.0 or Brother Dreamweaver VQ3000 or ???

2014
Fabric in stash at beginning of year: 143 yds
Fabric purchased: 113 yds
Fabric sewn: 72 yds
Fabric donated/disposed: 12 yds
Fabric currently in stash: 171 yds
10/1/14 New rule: 2 yards of fabric sewn/out for every 1 yard brought in
I've decided I'm going to reduce the stash by prioritizing the bulky items. That means the upcoming sewing projects will be fleece jackets.

allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/9/12 6:03 PM

have to agree contoured waistband, just find one in your stash from a pattern that fit you really great and use that one.

Elizabeth made this
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Elizabeth made this  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/11/12 9:00 AM

I'm all for the contoured waistband--I'm still looking for the perfect one, but in theory I like it better and even the okay ones sit flatter on me. It makes sense--there's more seams and built-in shaping. It's hard to fit a beach ball with a straight line--not exactly what you're doing with a straight grain waistband, but you get the idea. I think the bias cut WB is an attempt to help conform a little bit better to your body like a contoured band would. You could always stabilize it to keep the stretch out. But with a heavy weight denim, that makes construction kind of rough, so I'd either go with a straight grain band or a contoured one w/o interfacing.

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