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Forum > Fitting Woes > Under butt wrinkles in pants ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Under butt wrinkles in pants
In-seam? or something else
QuiltSewSewSue
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QuiltSewSewSue
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Date: 7/23/10 11:25 PM

I have been making pants from Vogue 1020. These are simple elastic waist pants that I am making in Double Knit fabric.

First up I found that the back waistband dipped, so I sewed the crotch seam at the back deeper and longer (like an 'L') and this overcame it a bit. However there are still wrinkles under my butt.

Next pair I sewed the crotch in the 'L' shape again, added a little to the waistband in the back (tapering to nothing at the sides) and also added to the back inseam at the top of the seam.

The back waistband no longer dips - Yay! but the butt wrinkles are still there, slightly improved.

Does this mean I should add more again to this inseam or is there some other adjustment I should be doing?

(No pictures - I took some but it is too confronting to put them up)

------
Sue (Toowoomba Qld)
Love to sew....

http://quiltsewsewsue.blogspot.com/

QuiltSewSewSue
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Date: 7/24/10 1:51 AM

OK - *taking a deep breath* heres the photo of the wrinkles....



What do you think???

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Sue (Toowoomba Qld)
Love to sew....

http://quiltsewsewsue.blogspot.com/

Lilibet
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Date: 7/24/10 1:59 AM

Sue, I have a flat bum and have found Ann Rowleys http://www.flickr.com/photos/7370831@N07/424123159/in/set-72157600004811376/ alteration helps. It folds out a horizontal wedge of fabric so the pants fall from the buttocks.
Debbie Cook has a tutorial in her website which I'll try next in the hope of removing the diagonal wrinkles down the backs of my legs.

------
A room of my own, at last.

Lilibet
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Date: 7/24/10 2:04 AM

I've just seen your picture. It looks good, way better than most of the pants seen on the street.
It would still be worth trying Ann Rowleys alteration but you only need to remove a tiny wedge.

------
A room of my own, at last.

goosegreen
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Date: 7/24/10 3:07 AM

Sue, is it hanging up on your calves as well?? I'd like to see a side view!

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Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/

Keeper of the flock - Janome MC8000, Janome MC4900QC, Elna Elina 40, Husqvarna Rose, Singer 201K, Elna Contessa, Janome My Excel 18W, Janome 634D & 534D overlockers, Janome Coverpro 1000CPX.

brissie71
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In reply to QuiltSewSewSue


Date: 7/24/10 3:16 AM

Quote: QuiltSewSewSue
What do you think???

That I'm glad I'm not the only one who is having trouble identifying the appropriate alteration!

Seriously, though, fitting pants is so hard and it seems as though I have to go through this eternal pain every time I sew a new pattern. I just wish I could find the 'magic' crotch shape and the 'once-and-for-all' solution to those under-butt wrinkles.

I nearly had a big blue with my DH the other night when I was trying to fit my pair of jeans. Apparently, he doesn't know any more about alterations than I do (and he thought he knew everything!)

Good luck with the pants fitting. Sorry I couldn't be more help other than to offer a bit of moral support. Stick with it, though, then you'll be able to help me!

------
Kelley (Brisbane, QLD)
http://simplesewist.blogspot.com.au/

QuiltSewSewSue
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In reply to Lilibet


Date: 7/24/10 3:26 AM

Lillibet - thanks for the link. I have had a look but I am not sure it is the issue. The other alteration I did lengthening the back crotch seam by sewing it more like an 'L' is called a 'full derrière' adjustment in my PP book so I can't be both???

Kelley - thanks for the moral support. My DH tells me everything looks fine and I don't need to do any adjusting!! Probably seen me in ill-fitting RTW so he doesn't see any fit issues!

Alison - If I can get my camera battery to hold on for a bit longer I will get a side shot (have to wait for DH to get home also).

Thanks so far for the help (and moral support)!

------
Sue (Toowoomba Qld)
Love to sew....

http://quiltsewsewsue.blogspot.com/

Sew4Fun
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In reply to QuiltSewSewSue


Date: 7/24/10 3:45 AM

>>The other alteration I did lengthening the back crotch seam by sewing it more like an 'L' is called a 'full derrière' adjustment

Sue, totally forget about the names of alterations. Scooping the crotch curve can also be for a low buttocks. You can have a flat, low buttocks and need this alteration and you can have a full buttocks and need this alterations. Names don't mean a lot.

I need to lighten the photo to see what's going on. My eyes are getting old. I'll be back.

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

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In reply to QuiltSewSewSue


Date: 7/24/10 3:55 AM

Sue, my two cents is that you need to shift the back legs.

Basically given your shape (which happens to be similar to mine) you need more fabric on the inside leg (inseams) and less fabric on the outside (side seams), down the entire leg.

Read my blog post here. Hopefully it will help.

Edited to add: If these pants are the "good" version then you can shift the legs by letting out the back inseam down the entire leg, then taking in the back side seam, the same amount.

The other thing I forgot to say. Check the length of the back inseam against the front inseam. With your shape you want to the back inseam to be 1/2" shorter than the front, after you shift the legs. You then ease the front inseam to the back, above the knee, when sewing the two together.

-- Edited on 7/24/10 4:10 AM --

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

QuiltSewSewSue
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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 7/24/10 4:09 AM

Thanks Belinda - I will give that try.

I have got a side view (in case it helps) now, hold the sniggering...



I will check out that blog post - ta!

------
Sue (Toowoomba Qld)
Love to sew....

http://quiltsewsewsue.blogspot.com/

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