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Forum > Fitting Woes > FBA on dress with no darts ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA on dress with no darts
I'm lost on this one!!!
halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/27/10 11:14 AM

I'm starting a muslin on Vogue 8574 dress. There are no darts in the bodice just a pleat. I plan on doing a petite adjustment between the apex and shoulders but I also need a FBA. How do I go about doing a FBA on a bodice with no darts? Could I just make the pleat wider and wider in the side seams? I'm really stumped on this one and I can't seem to find anything on how to do this in my FFRP.

JTink
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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 7/27/10 11:24 AM

Check on Page 146

Irene Q
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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 7/27/10 11:30 AM

8574 line drawing

First, create a horizontal dart by doing the FBA. Then you can either leave it there, rotate it into the neckline to make the pleat wider or make a second pleat, or leave the dart unsewn, or rotate it to the waist as a dart or a pleat.

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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 7/27/10 2:37 PM

A pleat is a dart not completely sewn. Gathers are darts not sewn. Treat them the same.

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"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

halleyscomet
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In reply to Irene Q


Date: 7/28/10 8:49 AM

Believe it or not I have never rotated a dart. I had never even heard of doing that until I joined this forum. So I am knew at this. Do I do a FBA like in FFRP where you cut in three places? The pattern doesn't show where the apex is so how do I know exactly where to locate a side dart? Can I get a little more help?

Nancy K
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Date: 7/28/10 9:06 AM

Reread the section on darts as there are instructions for adding a dart. Then you have to decide where you want it. I suggest either leaving it at the side or rotating to under the bust.
On this dress I'd just make a mark for your bust point. Measure down from mid shoulder seamline and over from centerfront.

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Michelle T

Michelle T
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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 7/28/10 9:10 AM

On our pattern there is not a circle with a cross in it? That is the symbol for apex.

If not do not worry, just mark your apex on the pattern. Measure on your body down from your shoulder to your nipple and find this place on your pattern.

You will use your apex to rotate the dart, but when you sew the dart you will end it 1 - 2 inches away from the apex.

To get an idea of how it works to rotate a dart, practice on paper with 1/2 scale bodice pieces, before you start to work with larger pattern tissue.

You can practice doing the FBA and rotating the dart to different places to find what you like best.

If you ever have a chance to take Jan Bones' class on Pattern Magic, she covers this in detail.

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Nancy K
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Date: 7/28/10 9:12 AM

Reread the section on darts as there are instructions for adding a dart as well as how to rotate them. Trace their bodice drawing with all the lines of possible darts and cut and move them around. Then you have to decide where you want it. I suggest either leaving it at the side or rotating to under the bust.
On this dress I'd just make a mark for your own bust point. Measure down from mid shoulder seamline and over from centerfront.
I suggest that you trace the pattern and try it out. This way you won't ruin the original pattern if you have a problem. You need to play around with it and you can try on the pattern tissue to see where the shaping is and what you like. It's not that complicated.

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halleyscomet
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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 7/31/10 10:06 AM

I haven't had the chance to get back to this muslin until now. That was my next question about the fact that the pattern doesn't indicate where the apex is located. Since there is a pleat in the shoulder area, I thought about rotating the side dart to the shoulders. Do you think this would work?

JTink
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In reply to halleyscomet <<


Date: 3/25/14 10:18 AM

Halley, why do you want to rotate the dart? Just my opinion, but I think a side dart would look just fine in this dress.

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