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Forum > Fitting Woes > Darts or Bring in Seams on Pants ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Darts or Bring in Seams on Pants
Hips fit but a lot of extra room at waist
waikikimum
waikikimum
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 8/19/10 3:45 AM

Ok the pants fit at the hips but I have a lot of ease at the waist. There is some room at CF, however, a lot at CB. The side seams look as if they could be shaped in too.
I generally don't have darts in the front due to a large abdomen, but do have them in the in the back.
My question is should I bring in the seams as much as possible and then only put darts in if I need them ? Would bringing in the CB seam so much make it look odd? The pattern I am using
McCalls 4177 (OOP)
doesn't have a lot of curve from hip to waist and I am VERY curvy. Thanks

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Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to waikikimum


Date: 8/19/10 7:49 AM

I learned from a fitting class here on PR to never take in a CB seam; just the side seams if something is too large. But if I were you, I'd make darts. Don't bother with the side seams because depending on the fabric, it might pucker or you might not get them balanced. Darts, to me, have a tendency to make an area look slimmer. You can take in the darts a little or a lot, depending on how much fit you want. I put them in everything and I have a somewhat large abdomen and a swayback.

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waikikimum
waikikimum
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 8/19/10 8:15 AM

Thanks Miss Fairchild for your response. You have confirmed what I was thinking. I just did a little research here on the boards and found that taking in the CB seam will alter the grainline. I think if I take in the side seams a little I can get away with no darts in the front. The back, however, is a different story, I think I will need two substantial darts to get rid of the excess fabric.
All I need to do now is fiddle around with the width and length of the darts - something I need to refine.
Kathy

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Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to waikikimum


Date: 8/19/10 9:17 AM

If you're like me, you will always need a back dart. Make the width half the amount you want to alter, and the length should hit just the top of your high hip.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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ClaireOKC
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In reply to waikikimum


Date: 8/19/10 3:24 PM

This is often the case. I've seen as many as 6 darts (3 on each side) in the pants back area. The thing about taking in CB or CF is that it makes an artificially too curved area - hopefully that makes sense. The reason is that you are curved all across your back (or front) and spreading the fitting out over a space will fit you better than trying to fit an overall space with side seams and CF & CB seams.

It is not unusual to see that many darts and it will make your pants fit all that much better.


You do not have to add this many darts, and you can make them more to the side, back or center as you need the fit. IOW, if you have a very curvy area from your waist to you hip right on your side, then make the darts closer to the side seam rather than the center back/front. If you have a pronounced stomach, but are flat at the side, then make the darts closer to CF.

This is all part of the adventure in getting a great pant pattern. As soon as you do, then you'll be able to make up one great pair of pants after another. It's worth the effort to stick with this, to tweak the pattern.

Good luck.

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ryan's mom
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Date: 8/19/10 5:06 PM

Using darts and tightening the side seams is going to depend largely on your shape.

Do NOT add darts in the front IF you are lean and trim. Darts are for shaping, and if you create a waist dart when you don't need them, it will poof the fabric where you don't need it near the dart point, thus adding visual pounds.

I can tell you I need two darts in the back on pants, and can get away with no darts or very skinny, short darts on the front. Using a traditional pants pattern with wider and longer darts puts curvy shaping where I don't need it because my front is flat.

Knowing the nuances of your figure will help you decide if you can take the extra width out at the side seam or if darts are more suitable.
-- Edited on 8/19/10 5:06 PM --

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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
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