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Forum > Men Who Sew > Fitted Button Up Shirt? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitted Button Up Shirt?
Are there any "athletic fit" mens patterns?
maeve100

maeve100
California USA
Member since 2/19/10
Posts: 83
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Date: 8/26/10 4:26 PM

I have been trying to search for a mens shirt pattern that has more of an athletic fit, but havn't been able to find any! All the mens shirt patterns I come across are very baggy, true to what you would find in store. Does any one know of any suggestions? I am not that great at alterations, so I don't trust myself to edit a pattern without a guide. :-/

Liz

Michelle T

Michelle T
Intermediate
British Columbia CANADA
Member since 8/24/02
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In reply to maeve100
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Date: 8/26/10 4:44 PM

Check out Burda patterns.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

maeve100

maeve100
California USA
Member since 2/19/10
Posts: 83
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Date: 8/26/10 4:49 PM

I thought I might have the most luck with Burda, but the pictures of the shirts all look very similar to the standard cut. My husband has a 42 inch chest, and a 32 inch waist - so standard cuts look a little silly on him.

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 4/3/10
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Date: 8/26/10 4:59 PM

Even though you say you aren't great with alterations this would be quite easy to do. I just had a book on making shirts by David? Coffin from our library that had everything you ever needed to know about making men's or women's shirts. I think you would only need to start with his shoulder/chest size and trim it down at the waist. If he's very "buff" you may need to add circumfrence to the upper sleeve. Guys aren't as bumpy as women and so much easier to fit. OOh! I've seen some lovely Italian men's shirting fabric in our area. Good luck!

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Elona
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In reply to maeve100
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Date: 8/26/10 8:26 PM

First, it's impossible to judge a pattern's fit by what the pattern photo looks like. To get a real idea of the fit of a man's shirt, you need to look at the line drawings and look for what' s called 'finished measurements' as well as written descriptions like "fitted" or "close-fitting," as opposed to "loose" or "drop-shouldered," and so on.

Second, Burda patterns for men do tend to be somewhat closer fitting than those of the Big Four, though more shirts of this type can be found in their magazines, I think. Lately, if you look closely at Kwik Sew, they have introduced a couple of shirts that are described as more fitted. You can search for reviews of Kwik Sew men's shirts using the 'Advanced Search' feature at the upper leftish of this screen.

Third, men's shirts hang from the neck and shoulder. To fit your guy properly, all you have to do is get these areas right and then it's a simple matter to bring the pattern in at the waist and hips to match his slender dimensions there.

You might want to look at vintage patterns, like those from the 1970s. Peter here at pr favors a close to the body look and has found a number of body-conscious shirts of this type.

RMJ
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RMJ  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/26/10 9:46 PM

My husband has requested more fitted shirts -but there is only so much shaping one can do with side seams. Darts would not look right. I saw a nicely fitted shirt on a male coworker recently that had a yoke, then two vertical seams down the back (so back was divided into three pieces). That seems like a great opportunity for shaping so I'm going to try extra seams front and back.
Ruth

Elona
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In reply to RMJ


Date: 8/26/10 11:08 PM

This slim-fitting men's shirt is fitted purely by side seam shaping, as are most such shirts in the U.S. I've made a couple of fitted Burda shirts and one Simplicity for my slender son that employed only curved side seams below the yoke. Guys don't have the complicated contour issues that women do, so simple fitting measures work fine for them.

However, French and Italian men's shirts are often fitted closely via darts and they look very, very nice indeed.

Skycarl
Skycarl
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Ohio USA
Member since 8/9/10
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Date: 8/27/10 7:32 AM

Oh my, there was a day when I could have worn a fitted shirt like
that,,, oh well.

I want to second the fitting techniques found in David Coffin's shirt
book. It is one of those "well worth the dough" books.
BTW, his pants book is very good also.
He shows several ways to go. Pattern, copy a shirt and draping.
Use one or combine to find the way that works for you.
Just like FFRP is a great helper for sewing something for that
special gal ( and they are all special ), Coffin's book will school you on
making the lines right for that shirtless man.

------
just Carl

skycarlsskyblog.blogspot.com/

Singer 99
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Kenmore 15280

Michelle L
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Michelle L
Intermediate
Missouri USA
Member since 1/20/08
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In reply to RMJ


Date: 8/27/10 8:16 AM

Quote: RMJ
My husband has requested more fitted shirts -but there is only so much shaping one can do with side seams. Darts would not look right.

Italian fit shirts uses darts: back darts, and you can also use seaming similar to princess seams, I have seen the shirts referred to as "prince seams."
-- Edited on 8/27/10 8:20 AM --

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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In reply to maeve100


Date: 8/27/10 9:11 AM

A good fitting book is worthwhile having in the sewing room.

FFRP (as we call it here at PR) by Palmer/Pletsch is one of the best for a good price. A lot of the principals can be applied to mens fitting.

Classic Tailoring Techniques for Men's Wear is another book every man might want in his resource library. The book has some basic fitting tips in the front, but it's mostly about constructing jackets & pants.

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