SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
Fashion Fabrics Club
Fashion Fabrics Club

Forum > Fitting Woes > Back neckline gaping ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Back neckline gaping
on dress Simplicity 2588 - help please!
ClaireEmily
starstarstar
ClaireEmily
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 9/28/08
Posts: 408
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/10 6:51 AM

Well I just made Simplicity 2588 which is a princess seamed dress with a round neck band. I am getting very strange gaping at the back neck. I had this before in this dress McCalls 5408 which I subsequently to the review ripped the zipper out and took a wadge out of the back and hance it didn't gape and the shoulders stopped falling off. Given that it's happened again, maybe it is me and not the pattern? But what sort of adjustment should I be doing?

Here are the pics
gaping neckline shot
full front view
full back view
full side view

So
1. how should I avoid this gaping back neckline in the future?
2. do you think the waist is too low?
3. do you think the bust curve is too high?
4. do you think the dress is too loose? (I thought it was OK until my sisters saw it and gave me a hard time about baggy clothes)

Thanks so much
Claire

------
Claire - Melbourne, Australia

no7262
star
no7262
Beginner
New Jersey USA
Member since 6/5/09
Posts: 1342
Send Message

      



In reply to ClaireEmily


Date: 9/13/10 7:26 AM

Claire,

First let me tell you 2 things, 1, it looks like you did an awesome job of sewing this dress! 2, I am still a newbie so I might be very much incorrect in what I am going to tell you. I also know that someone with much more experience will come a long and tell you what you really should do to fix this right.

I feel that you have picked the wrong size. Are you picking your size by your full bust? If so, I think that you should use your high bust measurement. I say this because it looks like this dress is to big all over but fits your bust. So find your high bust measurement and then you would have to do a FBA. You also might need a sway back adjustment.

Make a muslin and see how it works.

I may be way off, so let's see what others have to say. Good luck!
Nora :)

------
Nora :)

ClaireEmily
starstarstar
ClaireEmily
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 9/28/08
Posts: 408
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/10 8:21 AM

Thank you so much for your kind words Nora! I really appreciate it. I do like the dress apart from the gaping issues. I was so pleased until I showed it to my sisters =(

You might be right about the smaller neckline size, but then that would be one size smaller than my high bust measurement and many sizes smaller than my full bust.

I should have said what adjustments I made. This is a 16 bodice (according to high bust measurement) with a 2.5cm (1") FBA. I also added 1cm in length below the armscye and above the bust point, and tapered the back bodice piece wider at the waist. The skirt is a size 20 with added width. My waist measures a size 20 and hips size 24. Also I'm 5'10" and have always thought of myself as long waisted (ie RTW tops never long enough) but through fitting patterns learning that maybe I'm not when the FBA gives me extra length at the front?

------
Claire - Melbourne, Australia

SVN
star
SVN
Intermediate
Ontario CANADA
Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 418
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/10 8:32 AM

Hmmmm... I'm sure there is a better way, but when I get this on rtw I dart the neckline. You could try doing the same and then shorten the neck band at CB to reflect the length lost due to the darts!? This could be done without starting again.
good luck

edited to correct a shameful spelling mistake!!
-- Edited on 9/13/10 2:37 PM --

no7262
star
no7262
Beginner
New Jersey USA
Member since 6/5/09
Posts: 1342
Send Message

      



In reply to ClaireEmily


Date: 9/13/10 8:47 AM

Claire,

I am still have SO much to learn and so many things to make! I will keep my eye on this thread to see what others have to say. I wish I could have helped you more.

Nora :)

------
Nora :)

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 1/13/10
Posts: 782
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/10 9:14 AM

I am just about the same size you are, so I will be watching this thread with interest. I also like my clothes to fit comfortably but of course without gaping or falling off. Frustrating, isn't it?

I did solve this problem with one top by adding darts at the back neckline to both the top and the facing after I had sewed the top (I ripped the facing off the back to make this change and then sewed it back on after I put the darts in). But it would be better to know what to do to the pattern.

Sewliz
star
Sewliz  Friend of PR
Colorado USA
Member since 6/22/04
Posts: 4422
Send Message

      



In reply to ClaireEmily


Date: 9/13/10 10:13 AM

Your excellent posture is creating problems, lol. You stand very upright which enhances your nice flat upper back. The standard figure that the pattern is drafted for has more volume and consequent roundness in her upper back and the poor girl these days also slumps forward a bit in the neck as if she has been sitting in front of the computer screen too long. I'll bet you can make the back fit if you hunch forward while wearing the dress.

The fitting books refer to this "fitting problem" as having erect posture or overly erect posture, as if you have some form of bodily disfigurement. I'm making fun of fitting book terminology because I think their terms are insulting.

Anyway, you need to reduce the width and probably length in the upper back of the pattern first, the pattern has too much there for your shape.

That type of band neckline should lie flat against your body all the way around. That will need some changes as well.

ETA The dress is beautiful!
-- Edited on 9/13/10 10:15 AM --

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

LauraTS
star
LauraTS  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 7/10/06
Posts: 2176
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/10 1:04 PM

I get a similar gaping *all the time*. In my case it's due to a combination of a small upper back and postural issues like a forward head. To fix it, I dart out some length in the back neckline in the pattern before cutting out.

I agree that the shoulders might be a smidge too wide for you in the front, but mostly the issue is in the back. In fact, from the photo it looks like your entire back bodice is baggy. I would suggest using a smaller size in the back (obviously, adjust the lengths to match) or taking in the back pattern piece to mimic the same effect.

For this dress at this point - which is lovely and a great color on you, BTW - your only reasonable solution may be to take darts in the back neckband to take up the excess fabric.

------
I've moved! Visit my new sewing blog at http://chiralcraft.wordpress.com

Do you sew from KnipMode? Join us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/knipmode_english/

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 1/13/10
Posts: 782
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/10 1:38 PM

Would it work to take out the stitching joining the band to the neck in back, take out the zipper, add darts to the neck edge, cut the neck band down to fit, and then reattach everything? It might be worth the extra work to get the dress to fit -- it looks great everywhere else.

On the top I mentioned before (which I'm actually wearing today, by chance), I put in two 1/2-inch darts -- so took a total of 2 inches from the width of the back neck.

My question for anyone else: how would you do this alteration to the pattern? Would you just put in some darts, or is there a way to rotate them out to the side or something?

ClaireEmily
starstarstar
ClaireEmily
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 9/28/08
Posts: 408
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 9/13/10 9:00 PM

Thanks so much for your input everyone! SewLiz, I find it really funny that I have erect posture. I take Iyengar yoga classes and am always being told to relax my shoulders and keep my shoulder blades going down my back. I guess the yoga is paying off! It's very nice to have a 'good' fitting problem after discovering that I have 'full arms', 'low bust' and other less than desirable alterations to make =)

For this dress I will see if I can get back darts working, or perhaps rip out the zip and take out the excess that way. (I will try to console myself as this was my first ever lapped zipper insertion which I was so proud of!). I guess I need to be more careful about measuring the back piece in the future.

HarrietHomeowner and LauraTS, it's great to knew that this happens to other people too! 2" out of the back neck seems like a lot but I guess I might need that too.

Thanks everyone!!! I'll try to get a review of this dress up when I have made some fixes =)

------
Claire - Melbourne, Australia

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Back neckline gaping

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Restyling with Exposed Zippers
Restyling with Exposed Zippers

Register

Blueprints to Blue Jeans
Blueprints to Blue Jeans

Register

New Look 6110

photo
by: JUNIPERJUN...

Review
Favorite Things Hope Skirts Pattern

Favorite Things Hope Skirts Pattern

Buy Now
Sew Chic Southern Belle Dress Pattern (ln8503)

Sew Chic Southern Belle Dress Pattern (ln8503)

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.