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Forum > Fitting Woes > Help with Ann Rowley's flat butt adjustment ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Help with Ann Rowley's flat butt adjustment
MNBarb
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Date: 10/2/10 10:33 PM

I'm looking at this tutorial Ann Rowley's flat butt adjustment to fix this saggy below the bum.

When I see that overlapping diagonal line on the tutorial that leads from the crotch curve to the middle of the back thigh I'm wondering...doesn't this shorten the overall length of the crotch? Do I have to add that back in somewhere? She doesn't mention this. This method seems simpler than the "fisheye" dart but I want to make sure it works before I start cutting my next pants.
-- Edited on 10/2/10 10:34 PM --

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Barb
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BeeBeeSew
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Subject: Help with Ann Rowleys flat butt adjustment Date: 10/2/10 10:44 PM

Not to be snide, but pop over to Stitcher's Guilde and ask her.

MNBarb
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In reply to BeeBeeSew


Date: 10/2/10 11:24 PM

Thanks! I didn't know about that site. I posted the question there. I have so much to learn.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

BeeBeeSew
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Subject: Help with Ann Rowleys flat butt adjustment Date: 10/3/10 7:28 AM

Glad you found it. I saw it over there, Ann will probably post within a couple of days unless she's traveling.
BTW, she's in England so her timing's off. There's a thread called "Ann's Pearls of Wisdom" that may help you without her responding. Or search the site for "Flat Butt Adjustment"

JTink
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 10/3/10 10:40 AM

I'm so glad you brought this up. I've been working with Ann Rowley's adjustment for a few weeks and find that it works somewhat. It makes things a little too flat for me. I still have the wrinkles in the lower thigh area, but am trying that adjustment where you cut horizontal at the knee and slide the bottom part of the leg inward. Got the muslin cut, but haven't had time to stitch it up yet. I have a low butt, that's not so flat. I have wondered the same as you, after taking up the length in the crotch with this adjustment, how do you add it back. I need the length. I'm not a fan of scooping, especially when it's more than a fourth to half inch, because as I add it back to the side seams, I end up with Jodpurs! There's got to be another way. I'll be intested in hearing what you find out.

WildWyoming
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Subject: Help with Ann Rowleys flat butt adjustment Date: 10/3/10 11:29 AM

It's definitely a challenge to figure out which adjustments work for each figure. We're not really each of this type or that so that a specific adjustment will have the identical effect on each of us.

For me, I don't think my backside is truly flat, but my proportions give me a slightly wider hip area compared to front to back measurements, and that seems to equal a flat butt in terms of needing adjustments. It works for me to shorten the crotch and take out a little volume back there. But, it wouldn't work for everyone.

It also depends somewhat on the style and the pattern company--and your fit preferences and tolerance for imperfection.

Do you remember that Threads article years ago where they took four women and made them custom pants? They were all smiling happily in their before pictures with their usual pants and in their black tights to show their shapes and their fit problems. They were all frowning in their after pictures with the custom made pants. The pants technically "fit," but they were not necessarily flattering. For example, one woman had trousers that were so wide in the leg to allow them to fall from the hip straight down that they made her look like she had tree trunks for legs.

So, yes, work out how to best fit pants for you, but be careful what you ask for. Same with perfectly fitting jeans. If they have no wrinkles, you may not be able to sit down in them. Tricky stuff at times.

woggy
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In reply to MNBarb
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Date: 10/3/10 11:30 AM

Barb,

Ann's adjustment may or may not work for the pants you want to adjust because you are trying to adjust a jeans style pant that fits closer to your body. The thighs are slimmer meaning the inseam is shorter.

Ann's alteration is for trousers or slacks that are not tight fitting. She also used a Burda pattern because this is an old Burda alteration. What I discovered is this alteration works well with Burda patterns due to the hip block design of the back pattern piece on Burda patterns. This alteration can work on the Big 4 but the alteration does not look the same with the center back seam. I found I had to do more adjustments with the Big 4 when I did this alteration. It does work but you are right, it does not look like Ann's.

NancyK wrote on her blog at the end of September about how she adjusted her pattern with a plum line down the side seam. She noted that when she worked on a more slim fitting pair of pants that the back of her legs had some wrinkles as compared to the trouser style of her pants due to her tilted pelvis. She has a picture of how the slim pair of pants look in the back.

Wrinkles on the back of the pants have a lot to do with the positioning of your legs under your body. This is why some folks move the lower part of the leg towards the inseam. Moving the lower part of the leg shifts the grainline down the center of your leg.

Some bodies require adding back to the top of the center back seam or scoping after taking away this material at the crotch level. Seamingly Simple wrote a tip on the main page of this site about her adjustments for this alteration. Ann has a rectangle shape and is quite slim. This adjustment works well for her shape. If you have curves, you may not want to remove the 1/4 inch in the vertical adjustment as Seamingly Simple stated. You might not want to remove the width from your backside which the 1/4 inch vertical adjustment does.

We move in our pants and need material to walk and sit. If you take too much material away, you can't do these activities too well and unless you have a stick figure, some form fitting jeans have these wrinkles in them for movement.

I did a Google search on tilted pelvis and came across a website written by a woman that had taken the Palmer Pletche pants fitting class. She has a picture of her backside in her jeans and stated that she was told in this class that the wrinkles were due to the curve of her back crotch. I believe she took this class from Patty Palmer. She did a mold of her shape and placed in on her pattern which was quite different than the pattern. She re-worked the pattern to fit her crotch shape and eliminated many of her wrinkles.

I really believe as we age, that there is only so much material we can take out of our backside before it no longer works for us. As the roundness of our backside slides down, we still need the length of the material over this area so we can sit and walk.

If you are comfortable in these jeans then wear them with pleasure because they fit you and you didn't spend a fortune on them.

Woggy

MNBarb
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In reply to JTink
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Date: 10/3/10 11:43 AM

Quote:
I have a low butt, that's not so flat.


Quote:
I need the length.


Ah! JTink, these are exactly my issues. Too bad you don't live next door, we could have a muslin party!

I'm frozen. I want to start these pants but need some direction. I think I'll do the aluminum foil mold measuring trick and also look at some of my RTW pants to see how they differ from the pattern.

Woggy, thanks, it's helpful to consider the trouser vs jeans fitting. I'm thinking about adjustments for both when I should probably just focus on one at a time.

I guess I just need to jump in and try something.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

GlButterfly

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In reply to JTink
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Date: 10/3/10 12:18 PM

"I have a low butt, that's not so flat." Me too.

I finally got rid of the wrinkles in the back thigh area. My pants have more of a trousers fit and hang straight from the butt.

When I say scooping out it is not the same scooping out as others are speaking about. They are talking about more of the hip area; thus, you would need to add to the side seam. I'm talking about scooping out "underneath" where it's needed. I begin just behind the crotch seam and "scoop out" , tapering as get to the hip area.

For me the scooping out works in conjunction with adding to the back inseam and tapering down the thigh area. So often the wrinkles in the back thigh area indicate that there just isn't enough fabric to go around the thigh plus enough to include what is needed to get around that butt area. Some of the diagonal wrinkles indicate that the back inseam is too long, meaning it has to be scooped out/lowered.

This fit is not for everyone. The younger set probably doesn't want their pantlegs to hang straight down.

You can check my blog (by clicking on it from my profile) to see some photos. I don't have comments on exactly what I did because 1) it took years to get to this point and 2) there isn't enough ink on this planet to do this. This point is that it IS possible; it just may take some time, possible even lots of time.

Just remember pants fitting is an ongoing process. Then, when you have it, the shape changes. Oh, well

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Nancy K
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 10/3/10 2:40 PM

Yes, of course it does, but most women with a flat but need less. It is a balance to find the right amount so that you can still sit down! I ended up adding more by scooping out the rear end and by adding some at the top of the cb. I have a flat butt, but I don't like my cb to pull down when I sit, so it's a choice of what you can live with.
To make sure it works for you, I'd make a muslin before committing . I don't know if this is your problem however. I didn't see a side view of you just the back.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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