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Interfacing a blouse
Is it really necessary?
BJ1400
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BJ1400
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Date: 10/7/10 8:43 AM

I was watching a video of Peggy Sagers in which she was constructing a blouse. She said interfacing is not necessary (and she doesn't use it) in a blouse collar or facing. What do you think about this?

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Beverly.

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Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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In reply to BJ1400


Date: 10/7/10 8:50 AM

If your button placket is doubled over so there are three layers of fabric, interfacing is not really necessary, depending on your fabric. Something light and silky but not transparent might need interfacing to support the buttonholes. It depends, so test, test, test.

As for collars.... it's a judgement call. Depends on what look you want from the collar, and style of collar. I would say to interface with possible exceptions.

FWIW, my DH's dress shirts from Brooks Brothers have absolutely no interfacing in the collar. They're just two layers of oxford cloth. I know, because I have removed & turned enough of them (sometimes had to make a brand new collar from donor shirt bodies) to extend the life of the shirt. But that's a sturdy fabric that is starched, and a man's dress shirt,,,, and we're talking about blouses here.

You can add a second layer of the blouse fabric to the upper collar, and it will serve as interfacing. I think David Page Coffin suggests this in his book. Test first.... it could darken the shade of your collar, depending on transparency of the blouse fabric, and prints might show through.

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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to BJ1400


Date: 10/7/10 10:01 AM

This is interesting, because I always thought if you want your collar to roll, interfacing is required, and if you are using buttons down a placket, it's vital. I tried using "wimpy" interfacing in a collar once, and all I got was a flat piece of fabric--no nice roll. But you can use different types of fabric for interfacing, such as muslin for your collar; it doesn't have to be true interfacing. As to a front facing on a shirt, I double the button placket to use as my interfacing.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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Cathy Loves Fabric
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Cathy Loves Fabric  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/8/10 8:58 AM

I just finished a blouse where the interfacing in the front facing ruined the look of front. Next time I'm going to eliminate interfacing the whole facing and just use little squares of self fabric or interfacing at the buttonholes. It's worked before. This thread helped me make up my mind about what went wrong with my blouse. Thanks guys.

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My hope is to sew to the very end. They'll find my head slumped over my precious Kenmore 19606 and have to pry the seam ripper from my cold, dead hands.

mastdenman
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Date: 10/8/10 10:27 AM

When I purchased my work clothes from Casual Corner, their silk blouses always used self fabric for interfacing. It eliminates that problem where the interfacing reacts differently to washing and ironing than the fashion fabric.

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Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to mastdenman


Date: 10/8/10 7:13 PM

Quote:
It eliminates that problem where the interfacing reacts differently to washing and ironing than the fashion fabric.
Yes, and that gawdawful bubbling!

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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Snoo

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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 10/8/10 8:20 PM

The bubbling is exactly why I like to use sew-in interfacing instead of iron-on. I've been told that it must be the way I ironed it on, but nothing seemed to make it do right - not up and down motion with the dry iron - nothing. There is one woven cotton/poly interfacing that I sometimes iron-on. Wish I had the name as it does well every time.

Laurasews
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Laurasews  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/8/10 9:29 PM

I have actually been making up some of my Peggy Sagers patterns lately. I have used no interfacing (after debating about it over-night) and I am very pleased with the results. I am finding some other small tweaks that I want to make with the patterns, but I love her RTW techniques and the fast, professional results. One blouse was made out of a polyester chiffon type fabric and the other is a rayon batik. Both worked very well without interfacing.

BTW...not related to your original question, but he other tweaks that I have made are to add 1/4" to the sleave cap to eliminate vertical folds from the shoulder point to the lower armhole. I have also decided to move the shoulder point forward by 3/8" or so. I don't tend to have to do this with other patterns, so I wanted to mention it.

mastdenman
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Date: 10/8/10 9:52 PM

I hate bubbling.

------
Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

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