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Forum > Fitting Woes > I'm back with revised pants. ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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I'm back with revised pants.
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MNBarb
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Subject: I'm back with revised pants. HELP! Date: 10/8/10 8:47 PM

Here is my new trial of some pants with a few fitting issues.

I was able to eliminate the wedgie by extending the crotch point and adding about 1/4 inch wedge into the middle of the CB.

I now have a poochy thing going on at hip level on the side seam. If I sew a straighter side seam the pants get too tight and pull across my bum.

Is that extra fabric under the butt a problem or is it just the nature of stiffer fabric and a slightly fitted leg style?

I have an envelope-type flap under the fly at the front crotch but that may be due to unclipped seam allowance.

I appreciate any suggestions or solutions. Sorry about poor photos. I had to run next door to my neighbors' and didn't want to be too demanding. The glare off of the fabric is a distraction.
-- Edited on 10/8/10 8:57 PM --

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

simplystitches
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Date: 10/8/10 11:50 PM

I've been through the pants fitting journey myself so I know what you're going through. Frustrating isn't it?

First I think you did a great job fixing the wedgie!

One of the things that I did to eliminate some of the wrinkling under the bum was to take a wedge out of the back leg about 3-4 inches below the crotch point and blend the seam line below so I didn't affect the crotch point. When I sewed the inseam I stretched the back inseam to match the front. It took away most of the wrinkles. I know you're asking how I came about deciding to do this and the amount I took out. I pinned out a wedge in the back leg starting at the inseam and tapering to nothing at the side seam on a finished pair. Try it on this pair. If you've got a disappearing marker and can mark your grainline up the leg and get the cross grain draw a wedge right on the pants and pin it in on the outside. Yes it makes the front look off but all you're looking at is the back.

IMHO I think the poochy side seam is from the wrinkle directly under your bum. Looking at the back and side views you can see where the wrinkle pokes out on the sides.

Just thought I'd offer something that worked for me.



MNBarb
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Date: 10/9/10 8:48 AM

Thanks Simplystitches. I'll try that on the next pair. I want these to be wearable so might have to live with a baggy bum until next go-around unless someone has a fix for this pair.

I did fix the hip thing More photos . It was a DUH moment. I had glued the back pocket before sewing. The glue was limiting stretch and causing pulling lines across the seat. When I let out the side seams to get more room I got the little jodhpur look. Once I removed the glue and straightened the hip area again it looked fine.

I wonder if I curve the inseam more from crotch to mid-thigh I might eliminate some of the loose-ness under the butt...?

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

MNBarb
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Date: 10/9/10 2:36 PM

New photos

The under-butt seems a little less baggy now. I notice the extra fabric under the back waistline but when I get everything (facing, etc) in place that does disappear.

Any other suggestions? I'd love to get this to be my TNT for pants.

Please be honest. If any area looks too tight or wrong and could be fixed I'd love to know.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

goodworks1
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Subject: Im back with revised pants. Date: 10/9/10 5:33 PM

I'm curious about something...
If you hike the entire pant up about a half inch, does the front smooth out and the back look better?

I know the wedgie will be worse, but otherwise???

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ccris
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Date: 10/9/10 9:22 PM

From the front, it seems the right side is ever so slightly higher than the left (I don't see that in the back, though). It could account for the front crotch wrinkle on the front right side only. As far as the back wrinkles, they could be coming from a wrongly shaped back seam (crotch curve). If it were me, I'd release the crotch seam, try on, and look in the mirror....take pics. Are the wrinkles gone or almost gone? If they are, that tells you you probably don't have enough fabric in that area, or you need to reshape the crotch seam.............I think. I'm not a fitting guru. I'm just telling you what I think. I could be wrong.
-- Edited on 10/9/10 9:25 PM --

MNBarb
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In reply to ccris


Date: 10/9/10 9:56 PM

Quote:
or you need to reshape the crotch seam


I do think you're right about this. I might work on that with the next pair. Every pair gets a little better.

Thanks for the observations and suggestions.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

ccris
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Date: 10/9/10 11:53 PM

Just had another thought. Check out "body space" in the board forums (over on your left under "advanced search tags," and also "foil crotch curve." Don't forget to place a check in "messages" so you get all the posts. Hope you find something that helps.

MNBarb
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In reply to goodworks1


Date: 10/10/10 8:15 AM

Quote:
If you hike the entire pant up about a half inch, does the front smooth out and the back look better?


Sorry, no.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

MNBarb
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In reply to ccris


Date: 10/10/10 8:23 AM

Quote:
Check out "body space"


Thanks ccris. I used the foil curve and body space information to get these pants. That's how I eliminated the wedgie that was happening in a previous pair. I didn't curve the seam as much as the foil indicated because I wanted to start slowly. I might need to take out a bigger scoop next time.

Sewing pants has taught me something about my body. I have a low butt, not flat, but low. I don't think it has to do with age (well I might be in denial) but it's probably why low rise pants have never worked for me. This is good information to know when trying to get pants to fit. I think I already have a pair of pants that is better than most of my RTW. My goal is to make something with a more modern fit, that fits!

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

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