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Message Board > Patterns and Notions > Patterns without sleeve cap ease ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Patterns without sleeve cap ease
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Sewingmi
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Sewingmi  Friend of PR
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USA
Member since 11/8/05
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Date: 10/17/10 10:54 AM

I'm sure many people would be horrified to make a blouse or jacket without sleeve cap ease...but that is the kind of pattern I love to make and wear! Casual, comfortable, and easy to sew. I don't have time to ease in that sleeve cap, and whenever I try, it looks awful and I throw it away!

Some patterns I've found without sleeve cap ease:
The blouse and T-shirt in the Kwik Sew "Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way" book
Book

Kwik Sew Jacket 3297
Jacket

Kwik Sew Jacket 3693
Jacket

I've made them all, and they are my tried and true favorites. I saw a great review for Kwik Sew 3740
Where she said there was no sleeve cap ease. I'll have to try that one. Review 3740
Does anyone have any other favorites without sleeve cap ease? Thanks for any suggestions!

-- Edited on 10/17/10 11:16 AM --
-- Edited on 10/17/10 11:21 AM --

Elona
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In reply to Sewingmi


Date: 10/17/10 1:26 PM

You might be interested in Kathleen Fasanella's article called Sleeve cap ease is bogus. She gives some compelling reasons for slightly reshaping the sleeve head to make it more anatomically correct and not fretting the ease thing.

Another lady shows her technique for removing that so-ugly excess ease here.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Elona


Date: 10/17/10 7:45 PM

I see the blog, (thank you for the link) but I'm not understanding what she means by this:

Quote:
Now the important stuff begins: to reduce the ease on the RIGHT side, bring the RIGHT line to meet the center pin/s.
What line? The seam line? How would I bring the seamline to meet the pins? Elona, if you have tried this method, I'd certainly appreciate some explanation for this age-old mind of mine.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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Elona
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 10/17/10 8:50 PM

I have not used this method myself, but all she's doing is another route to the kind of contouring that Kathleen illustrates on her site: The shoulder's front curve is being shortened in the area just above the crease where our arms meet our, well, boobs. The back curve of the cap is being (relatively) slightly flattened and elongated, as is proper since we use our arms more in the front of the body than in the back.

The blogger left out several important steps in her illustrations for the public: First, she put a couple of short, vertical pencil marks about 1/2" either side of the shoulder dot of the original pattern. See them?

And the pins she's talking about are placed on the pattern tracing material underneath the original pattern. She is rotating the aforementioned 'marks' on the original pattern to meet the pins on the tracing paper.

Years ago in, I think, the original Power Sewing, Sandra Betzina described re-shaping the sleeve head la Kathleen to reduce the ease up there.

susiestitcher
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 10/17/10 9:20 PM

If you re-read her blog , she says in Step 1 to determine the amount of ease to remove. She then gives some ideas on how to determine it, such as her suggestion to cut a muslin sleeve and sew it in, puckers, pleats and all and then measure how much is taken up by the pleat/puckers. But she mainly leaves the method for determining the excess up to you. Then in Step 2 under gathering materials, she mentions to write down that measurement gleaned from Step 1 (amount of excess ease). Apparently, she must have intended to then tell us to use this measurement to mark the excess amount of ease at the top of the sleeve cap, using the shoulder dot as the center of the measurement. This would result in the two lines she refers to for pivoting the center shoulder dot.

That's what I sort of think she may have meant. I hope this helps.

Sewingmi
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Date: 10/19/10 5:27 PM

That is some great information! I also wonder why pattern companies don't indicate somewhere on the envelope how much ease there is. For me, no sleeve cap ease would be a selling point!

FirecrackerKTM
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FirecrackerKTM
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Date: 10/20/10 0:16 AM

I'm sloppy. I don't measure, I don't mark. I just fold the pattern over itself a little at the very top to remove ~1/2-5/8s" from the cap, and I've had VERY good results with this in all sorts of patterns.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to susiestitcher


Date: 10/20/10 0:28 AM

Thanks Susie, but she's still missing the procedure on how to do it. Measuring a sleeve is pretty easy, especially when you use a flexible tape measure. Then you compare the sleeve to the armhole and there's your difference; it's usually about 1.5" ~ 2.0". She isn't clear on what she does with the lines, or how she moves the cap (that was my original question. I guess I didn't explain clearly ) And pivoting the shoulder dot, as you say...do you pivot it like Nancy Zieman's Pivot and Slide? I've actually made slashes in the sleevehead, to remove the ease. And someone suggested once to flatten the cap.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

mhk3boys
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mhk3boys
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In reply to FirecrackerKTM


Date: 10/21/10 10:38 AM

That makes sense. I have tried Sandra Betzina method and it works too. I guess you need to get that ease out somehow! Because the ease is NOT working and is causing too much stress!

------
Relax, don't get your elastic all twisted up in your waistband!
Hell hath no fury for the poor soul that sews an ill-fitting garment! Thank God for Surefitdesigns.com!

Calendria
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Date: 7/19/11 11:42 PM

what is the sandra betzina method of removing excess sleeve cap ease?

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