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Forum > Fitting Woes > Princess seam is not at apex of bust ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Princess seam is not at apex of bust
How to alter princess seam
zeddie
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Date: 11/15/10 2:03 AM

I am sewing a winter coat with shoulder princess seams. When I fit my muslin, the apex of the princess seam is 1" toward the the center front i.e the apex of my bust is 1" away from the seam (toward the armscye). The center fronts meet in the front. I looked in Palmer/Pletsch and the only solution for altering this is to do a FBA. I don't think I need to adjust the bust as the overall width in the bust area is fine; it's just the placement of the seam that needs to be altered. Any ideas on how I should do this?

MilongueraThreads
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Date: 11/15/10 1:17 PM

Maybe just add that missing inch in the center-front piece? Then if it ends up too wide you can take from the center-side?

zeddie
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Date: 11/15/10 1:25 PM

That is exactly what I was thinking but I thought that might not be the best way to fix the problem as the collar may then need to be altered. Basically I was thinking about shifting the two side front and front pieces over one inch, and then taking out any extra from the side front/back. Is this a good idea?

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Date: 11/15/10 1:45 PM

Hmm. I don't know?

How are the shoulders fitting? (also, is this a shoulder princess or armscye princess?) If the shoulders also seem narrow then adding the extra inch might help. If the shoulders fit you might have to bite the bullet and do an FBA.

zeddie
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Date: 11/15/10 3:44 PM

It's a shoulder princess seam. I'm not sure if the shoulder is narrow since I haven't set in the sleeve yet. I'll have to take a closer look at the muslin once I've sewn in the sleeve. I was really hoping to avoid a FBA because it seems so complicated. (I thought if you're a B cup you don't have to do a FBA!)
-- Edited on 11/15/10 3:45 PM --

Fictionfan
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Date: 11/15/10 3:59 PM

Basically, you want to move that seam to where it is needed, but the seam is a fitting seam, not purely decorative. Put on the muslin as you have it now. Mark on the muslin the line where you want the seam to run *while it is on your body or dressform that works well for your figure*, or better yet have someone else mark it if you are wearing the muslin. Now take off the muslin.

Transfer the seam: Cut that line, open the original seam allowance as needed, enough to make the muslin lie flat, then move the extra material from the place it was to the place it needs to be. Add seam allowances to the seam, transfer information to your paper pattern, then cut and sew or make another muslin to test your alterations.

HTH
-- Edited on 11/15/10 4:00 PM --

------
Fictionfan

zeddie
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Date: 11/15/10 6:09 PM

Thanks a lot! Just so that I'm clear, once I cut the "new"seam line, some of the side front will now be part of the front piece. I should open the original seam between the side front and the front and add it to the front? I'm not clear how that would get rid of the original curve but I think this is one of those things that makes sense when you do it. It sounds so simple. I'll give it a try.

zeddie
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Date: 11/15/10 10:00 PM

I have drawn the new line but I'm still confused about the instruction about opening the original seam allowance enough make the muslin lie flat and moving the extra material from the place it was to the place it needs to be. The front piece now includes a curve (when I redrew the side front piece). When I open the seam allowance to let the front piece lie flat, how or where do I add the extra so that it the front pattern piece is not curved?

Nancy K
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In reply to zeddie


Date: 11/16/10 11:02 AM

Move it to where you want it. Add to the cf and subtract from the side front.

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zeddie
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Date: 11/16/10 7:33 PM

Thanks for your help Nancy but I still don't understand how to get rid of the curve. The original princess seam has a convex piece sewn to a concave piece which then gives the front part of the garment (side front + front) a curve so it can fit over the bust. When I move the princess seam closer to the side, I'm left with a front piece that now has a convex and concave piece when it should only have a convex piece i.e. the front piece of the pattern is now three dimensional instead of two dimensional. I can't cut out a three dimensional front piece from fabric so I know I'm not understanding something. How do I smooth out the curve? When I open the original seam allowance from the bottom of the garment, I have to open it up past the curve to get it to lie flat and I have to spread the two pieces (the cut off piece from the side front and the original front piece) apart to get it flat, and now there is a triangle piece that I have to add between the two which then widens the whole garment. Is this right? Something doesn't add up for me here.

Maybe the problem is that my new princess seam is not the same shape as the old one. The new one is much straighter as I didn't want to change the seam where it intersects the shoulder and my bust apex is way more to the side! I'm thinking maybe you meant I should draw the new seam at the same angle but just a little bit over. Is that right?

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