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Message Board > Sewing for Petite Sizes > What happened to junior sizes? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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What happened to junior sizes?
Sewing for tweeners
GailFriday
GailFriday
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 3/24/09
Posts: 2
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Date: 12/24/10 9:38 AM

Hi--

I don't normally post to anything anywhere, but I'm getting a little desperate. I'm having a tough time dressing my tweener. The size 6 bust measurement on women's patterns is very close to her chest measurement, but--of course--she hasn't exactly got a 'bust.'

I have the experience and the willingness to make some alterations to a women's pattern, but I'm just not sure it's the most efficient use of my time. I'm really wishing the pattern companies still made junior sizes. (They have stopped, right? Or am I blind?)

My goal is for her to be dressed in a modest, dignified and feminine manner, so the typical garments for children her age won't work.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!--G

Fictionfan
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Fictionfan  Friend of PR
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VT USA
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Date: 12/24/10 10:22 AM

Simplicity and New Look both have a few junior size patterns. They don't make it easy to find them, such as making a junior category or anything. I got on the Simplicity website and put
Junior in the search box. I got 22 patterns, but all but 3 New Look patterns are out or print. I found 3 on McCall's, also OOP, unfortunately. You can still order them (full price of course) from the websites.
HTH

ETA: Do the larger girl's sizes not work? The measurements of misses' size 6 are 30 1/2-23-32 with back waist length 15 1/2. A girl's size 12 is 30-25 1/5-32, BWL 13 1/2. Seems like lengthening a girl's pattern would be less work that altering a misses' pattern with a small bust adjustment (I assume that is what you meant by altering the women's patterns). Just a thought.
-- Edited on 12/24/10 10:32 AM --

ETA: I forgot about the young fashion burda patterns. If you look on PR's shop patterns, you can search for burda as the company and junior as the category. My link didn't work to get you there directly.
-- Edited on 12/24/10 10:53 AM --

------
Fictionfan

Trinity.
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Trinity.
Intermediate
MA USA
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Date: 12/24/10 10:27 AM

Take a look at what Jalie has to offer. Their patterns range in size from 2 to 22 and I've found their drafting to be quite good for all the sizes I've used.

------
Trinity

http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/

Fictionfan
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Date: 12/24/10 10:43 AM

I agree with TrinityT that jalie would cover the sizing. Nearly all the patterns for tops call for 2-way or 4-way stretch fabrics. I think activewear when I think jalie, not modest, everyday wear. However, if you look at the reviews for the jalie patterns, you will see plenty of modest tops sewn by many different shapes, and the pants/jeans patterns are popular with PR members. If you haven't used a jalie pattern, be prepared to go cross-eyed tracing the right lines. That's another reason jalie patterns don't immediately come to my mind. Oh, and the sleeves tend to be skinny compared to the big 4 sizing, which may be exactly what you want for your tween.

------
Fictionfan

Choco Pie
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Choco Pie
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SOUTH KOREA
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Date: 12/24/10 10:56 AM

With Butterick, McCall's, etc., the larger girls' sizes are essentially juniors, aren't they? Some of the models used on the pattern illustrations are young teens. If you check the Butterick and McCall's sites, they have size charts for all their different categories, including Misses, Petites, Juniors, etc. They describe Juniors as "the young miss figure, about 5'2" to 5'5" in height."

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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In reply to GailFriday


Date: 12/24/10 11:38 AM

There are many items in that size range in Burda envelope patterns. You just have to sort through the larger sizes in the Burda Kids patterns and also (especially) check the
Burda Young Fashion patterns. There's no website in English anymore, but the patterns are still available in stores. You'll have to do some conversion from metric to U.S. sizes to figure out which size to use. Here are the Burda size charts so you can check.

P.S. Once you figure out what metric size you need, you can search for patterns in that size by using the drop-down menu marked "taille" (size -- i.e. sort results by size).

-- Edited on 12/24/10 12:00 PM --

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Photo: A long time ago

poplin
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poplin
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WA USA
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In reply to GailFriday


Date: 1/14/11 8:27 PM

Quote: GailFriday
The size 6 bust measurement on women's patterns is very close to her chest measurement, but--of course--she hasn't exactly got a 'bust.'



My goal is for her to be dressed in a modest, dignified and feminine manner, so the typical garments for children her age won't work.

Check out Japanese patterns for modest and feminine styles.

I will venture to say that if she can fit a size 6 on women's patterns with a small bust adjustment, then she will fit the extra small, small and medium sized patterns from Japanese pattern books. The patterns in these books are full-scale patterns--there's no drafting necessary. Like Burda magazine patterns, all full-scale patterns are to be traced. You will need to refer to the illustrations (or directions) to see if you need to add SAS or not.

There are a few pattern books that require you to draft their simple patterns. Most of these patterns are very, very simple to draft and very, very easy to sew. Think of straight, straight, straight drafting and sewing. For example, More Straight Stitch Dresses.

No doubt, they are pricey, but there are several patterns per book.

All text is written in Japanese. In my experience, I've never needed translation of these books. However, I am not a beginner in garment sewing and pattern drafting. I can figure things out on my own.

But if you get stuck, there's plenty here in PR who can help you move along.

Check out superbuzzy, an online store now in CA. It has several of these Japanese pattern books.

I recommend the following books for you.

Adult Couture: One Piece & Smock Blouses

One Piece usually refers to dresses.

Adult Skirts

Feminine Wardrobe

Lalala2: Sew Knits for Her

Machiko Kayaki's Simple Style Dress

Stylish Dress Book: Blouse & One Piece

Stylish Dress Book

Drape Drape

Need to see more? I highly recommend Simply Pretty on eBay.

She Has a Manish Style

Overlock Sewing Machine Everyday Clothes

My frame is small, slim and petite. For Japanese patterns, I usually fit an extra small, small or medium, depending on the pattern's size chart. I never had to adjust for a small bust.

------
Dec 2012: 2 yards

Her needlework both plain and ornamental was excellent, and she might have put a sewing machine to shame. ~James Edward Austen-Leigh, about Jane Austen

CatSari

CatSari  Friend of PR
Beginner
VA USA
Member since 11/28/09
Posts: 112
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 2/8/11 10:20 PM

I'm no tween, but with an A cup, my above-the-waist measurements aren't too different. I can sew a girl's 14 in some tops with pretty minor alterations. (It helps that I'm 5'1 and short waisted.) Much easier to tweak for a slightly wider waist than to try to remove curvature from the chest in a size 6.

Of course, below the waist is a totally different ballgame.

skae
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skae  Friend of PR
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MN USA
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In reply to GailFriday


Date: 2/8/11 11:15 PM

I just picked up some burda patterns for jrs. look there. there 40% off at hancocks fabrics.

------
Galatians 5:22-23 The Spirit produces love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, humility, and self-control. There is no law against such things as these

GailFriday
GailFriday
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 3/24/09
Posts: 2
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 7/9/12 7:08 PM

Thanks to all--I just revisited to see what's been added. I resorted to shopping vintage patterns in junior sizes. Turns out my girl likes to wear simple '60s styles a la Jackie Kennedy. I'm intrigued by the Japanese dresses . . . and I'm going to take another look at Jalie and Burda.

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