Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Men's Shirt -- Top Stitching the Collar Stand ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Men's Shirt -- Top Stitching the Collar Stand
Problems with gathers during top stitching
trbittner
trbittner
Intermediate
Member since 9/13/09
Posts: 8
Login to reply to this post

Date: 12/27/10 10:21 AM

Hi,

I've been working on men's shirts for some time and run into the following the problem consistently -

When top stitching my collar stand to my shirt, even after infusing the entire area with lots of steam, I frequently (though not always) have about a 3/8 inch overlap that winds up gathering somewhere on the stand, making the whole thing look unsightly.

This happens when I attach the collar to the stand and then the stand to the shirt and when I build the stand to the shirt and then attempt to attach the collar to the stand, so it's independent of my stand attachment method.

I suspect that, when topstitching, I'm letting the a straight seam curve a little bit, causing it to gather, but no method of construction seems to work for me to keep it in line. I've tried basting, glue basting, and pinning, but the the pucker always appears.

I haven't seen anyone else complain about this on the web, so I'm hoping it's just a simple technical detail that's eluding me.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Todd

Karla Kizer
starstarstar
Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
Advanced
FL USA
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 7473
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 2 members like this.
Subject: Mens Shirt -- Top Stitching the Collar Stand Date: 12/27/10 10:38 AM

I suspect that it's because you are topstitching a thick sandwish - and part of it was already slightly eased when the collar was attached to one layer of the stand. Try folding everything into place without ironing (no pressure and dragging with the wieght of the iron) - just fold under the raw edge, finger-press it, and hit it with a blast of steam. Once it's cooled, fold back the raw edge and put a strip a 1/4" Steam-a-Seam there; refold and press it into place. Once it's cooled, you can topstitch without stress.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



trbittner
trbittner
Intermediate
Member since 9/13/09
Posts: 8
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Karla Kizer


Date: 12/28/10 11:18 AM

Thanks for the tip. I'll try it out.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8067
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Karla Kizer


Date: 12/28/10 1:41 PM

A little glue stick that is pressed until dry will also work very well and it washes out which I prefer. The feed dog and the presser foot don't move at the same speed and can cause fabric creep which is why you are having this issue.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Karla Kizer
starstarstar
Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
Advanced
FL USA
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 7473
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Nancy K


Date: 12/28/10 1:49 PM

I agree, and if I were one of the lucky individuals who could manage to keep a fresh, sticky, unshriveled glue stick available, that's what I'd use, too.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



trbittner
trbittner
Intermediate
Member since 9/13/09
Posts: 8
Login to reply to this post

Date: 1/13/11 1:29 PM

Thanks again for the help. I used the glue and pins (and even basting!) before and ran into the same gathering problem, but it's probably because I over-pressed everything first.

I went back and made a few test collars and stands and was pretty successful with the following method:

Stitch both stands to the shirt, ala David Page Coffin's method, rather than build the collar as a whole and try and attach it to the shirt.

Press the stand pieces up (away from the shirt) to get the edges to match. I think this was the crucial step I was missing. After doing this I had a much easier time.

After sewing the collar to the collar stand and sewing the collar stand corners, finger press the unfinished edge into position and steam, but don't press, the edge to get it into place.

Edge/Top stitch. At this point the fabric appears to have enough natural give between the lower pressed edge of the stand and the upper finger-pressed edge to take up any slack that would have gathered.

Glue basting will probably make construction even easier, and I've been thinking about trying out a walking foot to see if it's even feed makes things easier.

Thanks again.

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 5706
Login to reply to this post

In reply to trbittner


Date: 1/13/11 4:36 PM

What a timely thread. I've been working on a shirt with collar and stand for the last week. Just finished the second one. They both two had the gathers going on. I wish I weren't so darn visual. Is there a tutorial somewhere that shows attaching the band to the shirt first and then the collar to the band(s)?

trbittner
trbittner
Intermediate
Member since 9/13/09
Posts: 8
Login to reply to this post

In reply to JTink


Date: 1/13/11 5:18 PM

Searching for 'attach collar stand' on the web may give you some more results but this link, and its 2nd part may get you started.
It's a slightly different method than what I used, but it should be more than sufficient.

I've had trouble seeing some of the details in pictures across various sites, but that just may be my color blindness. I'd also highly recommend the David Page Coffin book and the accompanying DVD, but if that proves too much of a financial investment, you should be able to get enough out of the web and a couple of practice collars.

Not that I'm the definitive expert on collars, since I was the one who started this thread, but if I can help someone else avoid some of my pain I can offer a tip:

When sewing the stand to the shirt, sew to the edge of the shirt, or a stitch beyond. It's better to a little over than a little under (otherwise the unfiished edge of the shirt can pop out).

That, combined with the comments I posted previously, have gotten me through the trickiest issues. At some point I hope to post pictures of my own travails, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

Hope that helps somewhat.
-- Edited on 1/13/11 5:47 PM --

trbittner
trbittner
Intermediate
Member since 9/13/09
Posts: 8
Login to reply to this post

Date: 1/13/11 5:21 PM

Oh, and Peter at Male Pattern Boldness is starting a men's shirt sew along, but not until February 1st. It should wind up being a wealth of information.

Peter in NYC
starstarstarstar
Peter in NYC
Intermediate
USA
Member since 6/9/09
Posts: 330
Login to reply to this post

Date: 1/13/11 5:51 PM

It's me in the flesh.

I've had this problem with some fabrics. Sometimes, as has been said, it's because there are so many layers and/or the fabric has stretched with handling, or the presser foot is pushing the top layer while the feed dogs are pulling the bottom layer -- all those things.

Remember, this will not show beneath the collar (provided it's not happening in the very front. If it is, restitch so that the extra bulk is in the portion of the collar stand that is hidden by the collar. You could stitch from both ends so that the extra bulk is in the (hidden) middle.

You could try a walking foot, though I have never used one on a collar stand. I find what helps me is to press carefully beforehand, to go very slowly, and to pin carefully. Sometimes I'll tuck a bit more fabric inside the collar stand which can shorten the amount of fabric being topstitched, if that makes sense, without changing the outer collar stand width significantly.


-- Edited on 1/13/11 6:09 PM --

------
You'll be in stitches at malepatternboldness.com!

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Beginner's Forum >> Men's Shirt -- Top Stitching the Collar Stand

Merchants on PR
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Blueprints to Blue Jeans
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Blueprints to Blue Jeans

Online Sewing Classes
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket

McCall's 5433 shirts
photo
Review by OP Gal on 1/3/10
Read Review

Vogue 8905 Pattern ( Size XSM-SML-MED )
Vogue 8905 Pattern ( Size XSM-SML-MED )

Details
Price: $22.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Burda 7330 Pattern
Burda 7330 Pattern

Details
Price: $9.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

BurdaStyle Downloadable 6009 JJ Blouse
photo
Review by squirrelly... on 3/10/08
Read Review

Peek-A Boo Felt Strap-On Booties Digital Pattern ( Size 0 mo -18 mo )
Peek-A Boo Felt Strap-On Booties Digital Pattern ( Size 0 mo -18 mo )

Details
Price: $3.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Blank Slate Rose T Shirt Digital Pattern
Blank Slate Rose T Shirt Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $9.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Christine Jonson Wrap Top
Christine Jonson Wrap Top

Details
Price: $18.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sewing Workshop Tosca Dress
Sewing Workshop Tosca Dress

Details
Price: $22.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN