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Forum > Fitting Woes > Determining the placement of your bust apex for FBA ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Determining the placement of your bust apex for FBA
When sides are missmatched and uneven
hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/22/11 11:29 PM

I can't seem to find this problem addressed on the Boards, I've only found something regarding adding padding, so here goes...
Let's say you have a pattern with no bust apex marked. It's for a knit and your pattern has a fold line (for the fabric) down the centre. You NEED to do a larger FBA and determine the apex for starting it. Unfortunately, not only do you have one breast quite larger than the other, the "apex" of the larger girl is also "at least" an inch lower. If you pick one side to mark the apex, the other side will be "off". Which side do you go with? The bigger and lower, the smaller and higher, or do you split the difference? I've been going with the smaller/higher apex since I don't wear my tops tight (and this was my best guess), but I wonder if this could be what's throwing my necklines off a bit, not to mention the different pull lines. Is there good rule for determining apexes or does it not really make a difference? Thanks

misschris
misschris
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/3/06
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In reply to hazelnut


Date: 1/22/11 11:45 PM

I would trace the pattern and make it a whole front rather than a half and adjust each side as needed. Then open out the fabric and cut a single, whole front rather than cutting on the fold.

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chris

Melbourne

hazelnut
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In reply to misschris


Date: 1/23/11 4:51 AM

That's an interesting idea. You could then do two different FBA's...but I wonder if that would also make the differences more noticeable. It's late, I'm tired and all I can picture right now are two different bust points staring at me. I'll have to think about this again tomorrow when I'm fresher! Thank you

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Kansas USA
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Date: 1/23/11 8:20 PM

What Chris said. This is one of the benefits of sewing: so you can tailor each bit precisely to fit you! So do an FBA for each side individually and then cut the front as a whole.

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~Gem in the prairie

hazelnut
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Date: 1/24/11 2:13 PM

I sounds like it's worth a try! I have one KS pattern that's altered to fit fairly decent, except for the bust darts (they keep killing me). I'll use that pattern, double it and then make 2 new separate FBA's. I have 2 projects I'm working on now that I'd like to get through the fitting and muslin stages and then I'll give this a try. If you think of anything else that might be helpful, please feel free to add, I'll check back. Thank you

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