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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Sewing buttonholes in thick wool fabric ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Sewing buttonholes in thick wool fabric
Karen Nutbrown
Karen Nutbrown
British Columbia CANADA
Member since 12/20/02
Posts: 65
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Date: 2/7/11 10:45 AM

I have been sewing a wool coat and am just about to do the buttonholes. I have interfaced the area and have made a few samples. Everythng is good until I cut the opening. I am using my auto button hole on my machine and the sewing goes well. I have frey checked the stitching before cutting but for some reason I always catch the thread on one side. Is they a better way to cut? I have used a seam ripper as well as a tiny pair of cutters. It is very discouraging.

Help please!
Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to Karen Nutbrown

Date: 2/7/11 12:34 PM

I don't know how many buttonholes you have to make, but this might be a situation where the classic hand-worked buttonhole is your best friend--and faster, too.

Here is one set of instructions.

Here's another.

For beginners, it's a good idea to use some kind of marking (a line of stitches, washable marking pen, Scotch tape) to mark the lines for the width of the stitches--neater looking result, you know. And of course, a couple of practice buttonholes before hitting the real thing.

------
Elona

dresscode

dresscode  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/7/11 1:30 PM

Those are great instructions! I often forget that handworked can look much nicer than even the top machine buttonholes. Better control on thicker fabrics too! I hate ruining an almost finished garment with buttonholes gone bad!!!
Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Karen Nutbrown
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Date: 2/8/11 8:15 AM

Quote:
Is they a better way to cut? I have used a seam ripper as well as a tiny pair of cutters.
I use a buttonhole cutter.

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M.S.
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M.S.
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In reply to Miss Fairchild

Date: 2/8/11 10:14 AM

I've been tempted to buy the buttonhole cutter. Glad to hear you think it works well. You never know if something's a gimmick.

I've heard a razor blade or xacto knive can work. Haven't tried it, yet.

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MissCelie
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MissCelie  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/8/11 11:30 AM

I used a vintage buttonhole attachment for my melton wool coat. It was just too think for the ones my machine makes. I also use the Clover buttonhole chisel. My holes were too think to take to with a seam ripper. I've also had good success with the duckbill embroidery scissors.

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SierraSarrah
SierraSarrah
California USA
Member since 1/31/11
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Date: 2/8/11 12:31 PM

Why not put protective pins in along the sides as well as the ends?
dresscode

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Date: 3/10/13 5:57 PM

Bumping this up...just finished a felted wool (stable knit) coat. Have done numerous samples. Auto buttonhole foot not working.

manual foot is working with the old method of stitching a narrow rectangle, narrow zig zag with wider tacks at end. ( this is such an under utilized method IMHO)

Curious, do the old vintage attachments work on a newer model Bernina?

My 1530 is the workhorse and I have a 630 also.

I have a compensation plate but can't for the life of me figure out how to fit on the auto foot. Wish Bernina would do a video on these plates....so few seem to know anything about them. The enclosed directions are very lacking.

sew2006
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sew2006
Ontario CANADA
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In reply to dresscode

Date: 3/10/13 6:21 PM

The compansation plate would have to attach to your existing buttonhole foot. Than everything is sandwiched between the plate and the buttonhole. By having heavy fabric between the plate/buttonhole it moves more even than what the feed dogs manage. I use my embroidery machine for buttonholes in heavy fabric and also purchased an old style buttonholer for low shank machines.

I agree with the other poster about the buttonhole tool. It works very vell and the round tool is for eyelets and the tip of keyhole buttonholes.

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dresscode

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In reply to sew2006

Date: 3/10/13 10:11 PM

Yes, I know it goes on the foot....but I can't seem to fit it to the foot. I am going to take it to my dealer (I moved away from the dealer who sold it to me. ). I watched a demo about five years ago and remember the rep said it was a "little fiddle".

Just odd that Bernina has no info out there. The instructions just say basically , put it together, put on machine and slip fabric inside.

I thought by now it would be on YouTube.

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