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Question re: collar technique
Collars
DesertGirl
DesertGirl
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Date: 2/19/11 9:51 PM

This morning on PBS, I was watching Martha Pullen's show (I rarely watch) and she had Louise Cutting as a guest.

Louise showed a collar technique whereby you change the pattern so you don't have "bulk" at the collar points; they are basically cut on the fold.

Did anyone happen to catch that and if so, are there notes for this technique anywhere?

Thanks much!
EleanorSews
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In reply to DesertGirl

Date: 2/19/11 10:56 PM

Nancy Zieman's "express collar"

In some of the older Nancy Zieman books this is called the "magic collar". If this is what you are lookng for and it still doesn't make sense, let me know. This is the best collar I have ever made.

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dresscode

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Date: 2/20/11 0:08 AM

Yes, I learned this at an ASG conference back in the 90's from Nancy -and later was refreshed by Louise's class with same technique. You will have a seam at back of collar which is normally ok, just be aware.
EleanorSews
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In reply to dresscode

Date: 2/20/11 0:51 AM

True, but the center back seam is on the under collar so it won't really show. It shouldn't be an issue in most garments or fabrics.

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

petro
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Date: 2/20/11 2:34 AM

That looks interesting for bulky fabrics, has anyone used this technique? Were there any problems with fabric grain?

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Lynnelle
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In reply to DesertGirl

Date: 2/20/11 9:32 AM

Cutting demonstrates the technique on one of the Threads Industry Secrets video.

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How is that still a thing?

EleanorSews
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In reply to petro

Date: 2/20/11 1:32 PM

Actually this collar method works quite nicely. In addition to turning out nicely pointed collars, the way the newly drawn collar is cut, what becomes the under collar is on the bias and it lays beautifully.

While I don't often make classic shirts with collars any more, I used this technique a lot years ago when I first tripped over it and prefer it. If there is ever a collar in my future that can be adapted to this technque, that's the way it will be done.

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

GlButterfly

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In reply to EleanorSews

Date: 2/20/11 1:46 PM

Though I haven't yet tried it, I'm inclined to think that this method can be used on other pieces which need turning such as waistbands, pockets, and cuffs, depending, of course, on the style.

"Nancy's Collar" is what I always called this method, probably because I first saw her use this many years ago. Some member said that we will associate a method with the person from whom we first learned it.

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"TOL machines = Too (much) Operator Learning"--poorpigling, January, 2016

EleanorSews
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In reply to GlButterfly

Date: 2/20/11 1:54 PM

I was thinking the same thing, especially pocket flaps. There are just some new takes on how-tos that seem to hit a chord and, if you try them successfully, they just become part of your STOP. Why I hadn't thought of applying the principle to other pieces until last night is beyond me. Ah well, never too late...

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

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Aixoise
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Date: 2/20/11 2:40 PM

Louise Cutting's collar method is fab. I've used it several times; it's on the Threads Industry Insider Techniques DVD, Volume I, along with numerous other techniques demo'd by Louise Cutting. The DVD's are moderated by Judith Neukam, Threads' senior technical editor. NAYY, but I highly recommend.
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