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Help me remove bust dart
(insert begging here!)
jadamo00
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jadamo00
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New York USA
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Date: 2/28/11 8:06 PM

I'm trying to figure this out myself but I can't get my head around it.

I want to make this
Stella Mccartney Citrus Print Jacket Sum2011

I found a jacket pattern that's almost right but it has a bust dart. I don't want the bust dart to interrupt the fabric print. I just want to flatten the whole bodice.

So, I pinch out the bust dart and...then what? The waist measurement on the pattern is good. I need to get rid of the bust dart, and keep the waist as it is (and not screw up the center front, the neck, the armhole, etc. etc.)

I await your experience, wisdom, patience!

j.
-- Edited on 2/28/11 8:06 PM --

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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In reply to jadamo00


Date: 2/28/11 8:10 PM

Rotate the dart under the collar. That way, you are able to maintain the jacket's bust shaping without causing too much interruption to the print.

-- Edited on 2/28/11 8:11 PM --

Sherril Miller
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Date: 2/28/11 8:16 PM

Fit for Real People show you how to remove a dart. Also you use Debbie Cook's tutorial that I've included here. Ignore the fact that it's for a raglan sleeve full bust adjustment. It also shows you how to remove a bust dart from a pattern.

How to Eliminate a Bust Dart Tutorial

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If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

AnneM
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Date: 2/28/11 9:06 PM

My attempt at translating Debbie's tutorial into words (someone please tell me if I have this correctly), skipping the FBA part:


- trace the current side seam on to background paper
- cut tissue paper up to dart point from bottom, & cut the dart itself out from the side
- pivot tissue paper to close the dart
- retrace along original side seam until you meet the new bottom, then blend that into the original bottom.

So you end up with a shorter side seam because you don't have the dart depth to deal with.

Yes?

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Sherril Miller
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In reply to AnneM


Date: 2/28/11 10:26 PM

Yes.

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

jadamo00
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jadamo00
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 3/1/11 6:29 AM

Okay, I understand about the shorter side seam because the dart would have brought it up. But I can't picture why it would be right to retrace the original side seamline!

The original side seamline worked because of the dart. Once we flatten the dart out, shouldn't there be a new side seam.

I wish I had the sense of spatial design that you guys have!

Thanks everyone for all information so far!

Jane

KathySews
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KathySews
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Date: 3/1/11 8:11 AM

Jane, I am a visual learner. It helps to just trace this out and try it.

woggy
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In reply to jadamo00


Date: 3/1/11 8:37 AM

Do you mind posting your pattern number? Would love to make a shawl collard jacket.

Thanks.

Woggy

Nancy K
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In reply to jadamo00


Date: 3/1/11 10:17 AM

Personally I think that you should rotate the dart to the neckline, so that the collar hides it. Have you looked carefully at this jacket? I think that there is some bust shaping.
As for Debbie's tutorial, if you do it, and I have, you need to trace the original side seam so that you get the correct shaping and placement. Since the back side seam is supposed to be the same size as the front after you fold out the dart they should match. In any alteration like this you need to walk the matching seams to make sure that they still match. The seams need to be the same length and shape to sew together properly. About darts and patterns, they tend to just get lost in the pattern and in complicated patterns they aren't particularly noticeable. If you are more than a C cup you need a dart. Debbie's tutorial is using a knit.
-- Edited on 3/1/11 10:21 AM --

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jadamo00
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jadamo00
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In reply to woggy


Date: 3/1/11 6:26 PM

Wog!

The pattern is McCall's Palmer/Pletsch Classic Fit
M4394

SCROLL UP TO TOP:CLICK on ENLARGE.

It's not really a shawl collar but I think I can use it to evoke the Stella Mccartney blazer: There is center front allowance that would allow you to install buttons. And I mean to extend the collar down to the waist, and also to curve the front hem.

This pattern is 2004 but it's on eBay for $5 WITH the shipping. I found ALL THREE size combination envelopes!

What do you think?

CLICK HERE for a
Threads article
about shawl collars on jackets!

j.
-- Edited on 3/1/11 7:54 PM --

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