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Mandarin-style collars and Interfacing
Where does the interfacing go?
neighbourhood gal
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neighbourhood gal
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Date: 3/23/11 9:43 PM

So I am making a blouse (a Burda Mag) with a Mandarin-style collar. I need to interface the collar, but I am not sure if I should interface the outside (the fashion fabric) or the inside (the lining).

I am making the blouse out of a sheer silk-cotton print and lining it with a sheer cotton batiste. I have tested the sheer fusible interfacing and it will be fine on either the silk-cotton or the cotton. Is there a logic to which piece gets the interfacing?

Thanks! (I always find collars confusing.)

tigergirl
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tigergirl
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Date: 3/24/11 7:46 AM

Personally, if I'm using fusible interfacing I fuse it to the lining/facing (not the fashion fabric) - in the past I've had it bubble on me and that's not as big a deal if it's not attached to the outer fabric. Of course, I could do a test piece and see how it goes through the wash but I'm way too lazy and impatient for that kind of muck around.

I suppose it would depend on the piece involved. With a mandarin collar (which I have plans to do with a knit soon) I'll be going with what I've said................ Just checked a top I bought in HK last year - seems they didn't bother interfacing the collar at all although, it's a stretch cotton and has enough body on it's own.

(I don't know what the 'rule' is though).

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TanitIsis
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TanitIsis
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Date: 3/24/11 6:46 PM

I've read with collars and cuffs and things "crisp side out", but I have no idea if that's a standard rule (and as the other poster said, if you get bubbles in your fusible, on the inside would be better than on the outside. I'm pretty sure I've done it both ways in the past...

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/25/11 12:32 PM

I generally fuse both sides, but if you're going for just one side, do the outside because it will reduce show-through of the clipped seams after pressing.

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Debbie

Ody
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Date: 3/25/11 12:58 PM

I agree with Debbie. I would add that you should be using a really good interfacing and that makes all the difference. Palmer Plescth as some really great sheer interfacing, as does Pam Erny at fashionsupplyco.com. Guess I have to say I am not affiliated somewhere as well. Pam also has some great shirt tutorials on her website offthecuff.com.

Using a quality interfacing is really worth the extra expense and effort. Each one of the above I have used has really helped my garments come out really well.

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kwpanthermom
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Date: 3/25/11 1:00 PM

Alternatively, you could use a sew-in interfacing, either of non-woven or even a fabric such as broadcloth. Depending on the fashion fabric you are using, you can choose to interface one or both pieces.

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kwpanthermom

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to kwpanthermom


Date: 3/25/11 6:56 PM

I took the moulage class with KK and asked him what he recommended for interfacing the raised collar in a jacket I am making and he said for a firm support he would use siri cotton or broadcloth, ie shirting sewn in. The pattern happens to call for sew in interfacing. Oh, and I agree the outside.
-- Edited on 3/25/11 6:58 PM --

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neighbourhood gal
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neighbourhood gal
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Date: 3/29/11 11:40 PM

I have nearly completed my first blouse with the interfacing on the inside. I just need to finish the hem. For this first blouse, I used a very soft cotton batiste. It looks fine, but I do think I will interface the outside collar on the next blouse (sheer silk print).

I do happen to be using Pam's sheer interfacing. I won a sampler pack on her blog sometime ago. It is truly delightful stuff to work with.

Thanks for all your input!
Sarah

gramma b
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Date: 6/29/12 12:42 PM

Didn't I see a tip somewhere on sewing Mandarin collars with the top edge last?
I always have trouble with "tucking" that front neck edge in to line up evenly as it connects with the front placket, especially on small kids' shirts. Please repost if you have this info.

-- Edited on 6/29/12 12:50 PM --

a7yrstitch
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In reply to gramma b <<


Date: 6/29/12 7:06 PM

That's me. Gramma b. West Coast PR member, NhiHuyhn, and I agreed to stick with my apple turnover name for the process. I often do cuffs the same way, sewing the straight edge of the lowest part of the cuff last.

I bumped Heathergwo's Slipstitching by Hand post in the pattern modification section and it reminded me that pictures of this process are on my July sewing agenda.

In the meantime NhiHuyhn was kind enough to concisely interpret my 'head spinning' description
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Interfacing. Outside for sure. I always do both, even if it means using lighter weight interfacing.

When using fusible interfacing, I prefer to fuse interfacing to a piece of fabric and then cut out the pattern piece

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

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