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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Armhole Princess Seam ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Armhole Princess Seam
Just a theoretical question
maeve100

maeve100
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Member since 2/19/10
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Date: 4/3/11 12:25 PM

Hi there,

I am working on McCalls 6076 with the hopes that their alteration guide will be helpful to me. I came across something odd though - the diagrams show all the seams going over the bust point, but on the armhole princess seam (view B) the actual pattern pieces can't go over the bust point.

Here is an image of the pattern pinned to my dress form (sorry to use a cell phone pic):

The triangle on the pattern piece marks the bust point. And as you can see, the seam is way too far away for it to go over the bust point.

So I am wondering if I am missing something? Don't armhole princess seams usually go over the apex?

Thank you!
Liz

-- Edited on 4/3/11 12:26 PM --

Pinkytoo
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Date: 4/3/11 12:39 PM

Just from looking at the pattern picture, I can see that View A & B are supposed to go over the bust apex. HOWEVER - view C does not. Check and make sure you have the correct pattern pieces for View B. If that doesn't work, I'm at a loss!

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Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 4/3/11 12:41 PM

Ditto Pinky.

Here's the pattern pieces in question:

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
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AdaH
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In reply to maeve100


Date: 4/3/11 1:21 PM

Not all armhole princess seams go over the bust point. Sometimes they are offset as is yours, but you are right, looking at the line drawings Debbie posted it does look as if the seams are going over the bust point not offset. As Pinkypoo suggested, check you pattern pieces.

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Ada

maeve100

maeve100
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Date: 4/3/11 1:53 PM

I was originally going to make View C, so I had cut out all those pieces then decided to go with View B. I just double checked and am 100% positive that I have the right pieces. I wonder if they just have an incorrect diagram. Doesn't help when the instructions are for laying the seam over the bust :-/. Thanks, AdaH for letting me know it is possible to do an offset armhole princess seam - even though the pattern is wonky in one way or another, haha.

I just looked at the pieces for View A - and the apex point is only about an inch away from the edge of the piece, where in View B its about 2 to 2.5 inches away. So yea, their diagram and fitting instructions would be incorrect for how the front and side front of View B are constructed.
-- Edited on 4/3/11 2:15 PM --

JTink
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In reply to maeve100


Date: 4/3/11 2:36 PM

A few thoughts...could you need an FBA? Also, I notice the triangle seems to be an inch or so higher than your actual bust point.

maeve100

maeve100
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In reply to JTink


Date: 4/3/11 3:57 PM

Yes, I do, and that's why I bought this pattern specifically. It has extra markings & instructions on how to adjust for that.

I thought the bust point would be the fullest point of the bust, and that's what I have marked on my dress form. Unfortunately, I don't know if that's correct or not, but its the guide I'm attempting to use. The measurements on the envelope say I need to make a size 22, but that's just way too billowy for me. So I matched up the bust point on the pattern to the dress form, and then went off of where the seams met to decide my size - closer to a 16 on most of the seams. Is this a bad idea?

Thank you, Liz

JTink
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In reply to maeve100


Date: 4/3/11 4:05 PM

Maeve, did you choose your size by your high bust measurement? By doing this, you get the neck and shoulders pretty much on target without a lot of adjustment, then you would make the FBA. Example: I measure 32 for high bust and 36 for full. I cut a 10 for the neck and shoulders, graduating to a 12 at the bust and below. I then add a 1 inch FBA and lower the bust point if necessary. Do you have Fit For Real People? It's really helpful with bodice adjustments. Shows you how to move darts and rotate, to make things work for your body type.

maeve100

maeve100
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Date: 4/3/11 4:13 PM

I have wanted to purchase this book, but times are tight right now so I am asking for it for my birthday :-). I was hoping I might be able to figure out how to do an adjustment with all the instructions in this pattern, but I fear it may be too hard to do on my own. I think if I could just know for sure which size I needed to start with, and how high the pattern pieces should sit on on the form (like where exactly a shoulder seam should hit, and how low the neckline should start) I could manage this on my own. Its tough to get a base pattern! Maybe I should switch to View A, since it seems to be simpler and less "curvy" heh.

Thank you :-).

goodworks1
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Date: 4/3/11 5:18 PM

Is there a reason you are fitting this pattern to your dress form rather than to your body?

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

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