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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Eliminating the need to set in the sleeve

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Eliminating the need to set in the sleeve
how much can I remove from the sleeve head?
MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/9/11 1:23 PM

I'm going to be helping a beginner sewist to make a loose-fitting dress. The pattern I found looks and is labeled easy. It does have a set-in sleeve which is not easy IMO. Even after sewing for 40 years I often have to redo the sleeve several times to get the ease adjusted right with no bubbles or folds.

My question is, what would happen to the fit if I shaved away some of the sleeve head and made it flatter so it could be sewn in on the flat or with less easing?

If I can't make this adjustment I'll probably have her baste the sleeve into the armscye to prevent majoy episodes of unsewing.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 4/9/11 3:00 PM

I understand you want to make something like a shirt sleeve. If you look at the pattern's sleeve, you will not only find the deep curve at the top, where the fullness is but you will also see on the pattern's bodice, that the armscye curve is sharper than a shirt-type sleeve. So if you shave some fullness off the sleeve head, your arm won't be able to move very well. You need to drop (or flatten) the armscye curve to allow movement for your arm. If you take fullness off the top of the sleeve head, you should also remove the same amount from the curve on the armscye.

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JTink
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 4/9/11 3:15 PM

I have a Vogue Sewing Book I was looking through, trying to find the answer to my own sleeve problem(in another thread)...They have an illustration in here on how to remove some of the sleeve fullness. They say: On the sleeve, slash pattern at the shoulder marking 3 or 4" down. Lap the edges the amount to be decreased(like a dart)...pattern will bubble slightly. Make 1 1/2 clips at each end of ease so the seam allowances will lie flat(looks to be just above the notches). Says to be sure and maintain the sleeve girth across the sleeve cap where the ease ends and shorten the sleeve cap slightly. Basically saying, to true up the area from the notches to the cap. They have an illustration, wish I could scan and post. Hope this makes some sense

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/9/11 5:05 PM

Miss F, It makes perfect sense. I will be adding to the armscye what I remove from the sleeve head.

JTink, I think I understand. Of course, it's always easier with photos but your description was good.

Thank you.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to JTink


Date: 4/9/11 7:41 PM

JTink, does the book address the underarm? I think it should, but maybe the book doesn't. If you take it out of the top, I think it has to also be added somewhere to allow for movement (I'm thinking of dart rotation).

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JTink
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 4/10/11 8:57 AM

Miss Fairchild, I don't see any reference to the underarm. That's what I find most maddening about most of these sewing books. They will address one issue(sleeves)but fail to tell you if there should be alterations made anywhere else to allow for it. In the case of making that little dart in the sleeve cap, I don't think there needs to be any alteration made in the armhole, because this was to take a bit of ease out of the sleeve cap, to eliminate the excess wrinkles and puckers.

andye
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Date: 4/10/11 11:31 AM

Fashion Incubator--sleeve cap ease is bogus

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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Tom P
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In reply to andye


Date: 4/10/11 12:25 PM


I was going to refer you to this blog posting by Kathleen. I pretty much duplicated her conclusions through several iterations with a shirt pattern. The upshot is that you can take all the ease out (which I think is best for a men's shirt), but you have to have the sleeve cap shaped just right. You basically end up adding a little height (maybe 1/4in. at the most) to the sleeve cap at the rear dot.
JillyBe
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JillyBe
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Date: 4/10/11 1:05 PM

I third the recommendations to look at Kathleen's tutorial, & study just how the arm really needs to move. I've been adjusting any sleeve caps that have too much ease ever since I saw her tute last year (I really dislike puffy sleeve caps) & I agree with her conclusions 100%.



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Marilly
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Date: 4/10/11 2:04 PM

I was so elated to see Kathleen's post back then. I use pattern software and totally enjoy not having more than .5 in extra ease which works for me in wovens since the tops of my sleeve caps lines don't fall towards the inside of my shoulder joint.
It also depends on the fabric too..some just to NOT want to ease so why argue with it. < : )

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