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More Pant Wrinkles
They fit fine - till I saw the pics !
Claire in Montreal
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Claire in Montreal
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QC CANADA
Member since 1/22/08
Posts: 1141
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Date: 4/16/11 12:43 PM

I hope there's still someone out there who is not tired of looking at saggy butts LOL

Over the past couple of weekends I made a pair of pants and tried to get rid of as many wrinkles as I could. I wore them this week and was very happy with the wearability and comfort. My review was done and all I had to do was have DH take the pics for posting.

Ewww ! I was sure I did a better job than they showed. I edited them this morning to show the progression of front / side / back and have no idea what to do with the pics. This weekend I was going to retrace my pattern onto sturdier paper for keeping and cut out another pair - but I think I want to ask for help first.

There are already lots of threads for pants fitting on the board, but the more I read, the more confused I got. I thought Hazelnut's thread from February addressed the same concerns as me, but I can't see any of the pictures (only the red x in the box), so here I am.

Any opinions and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Here's the front - the first pic is the original - I found the legs more snug at the knee than I wanted and much looser at the hip. I decided to flatten the seam over the hip about 1/2inch and opened up the knee a bit to see if any of the wrinkles dropped. In the second pic, I worked on my left leg only. Widened the leg on both the inseam and the outseam by a total of 1" at the knee tapering to nothing about 9 inches up and down. I also pinned up the hem to see if not standing on it would make any visual difference. The last pic is the final version - the front didn't change much, I don't think.


The sides - the 1st and 3rd pics are the original left and right sides. Pic 2 is after I let out the knee and flattened the hipline seam. Pic 4 is the same as 3 (since I only worked on the other leg). Side seams didn't change much either. They're not straight but they follow my leg - I didn't realize I stand like that.


And the back - oh boy ! The 1st original pic. The 2nd showing the left leg loosened at the knee - some of the wrinkles in the thigh are less I think. The 3rd and 4th are both final versions. One after wearing all day and the other, the next morning (maybe they stretched out ?) How can they seem to be so much worse than the 2nd picture ?


To get to the wearable version above I had made the following adjustments to the back pattern piece...lowered the waistband .5 inch, scooped the crotch .5 inch, took a .5 inch wedge out of the upper thigh just below the crotch, shortened the back crotch extension by .75 inch.

This last pic shows the final version, the pants pulled up about 1 inch at CB and pulled up another bit, maybe 1.5inch at CB - I keep reading that giving yourself a wedgie might help ! LOL So, yes the wrinkles changed but I have no idea what it is telling me (if anything)


Any experts out there who can give me any help ? Thanks.
-- Edited on 4/16/11 12:48 PM --

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Claire
1seamatatime.blogspot.com

Kenmore / Necchi BU Mira
Singer 99 (3) / HD110 / 66 (RedEye) / 127 Treadle / 15-90 / 221

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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In reply to Claire in Montreal


Date: 4/16/11 1:51 PM

Quote:
his last pic shows the final version, the pants pulled up about 1 inch at CB and pulled up another bit, maybe 1.5inch at CB - I keep reading that giving yourself a wedgie might help ! LOL So, yes the wrinkles changed but I have no idea what it is telling me (if anything)

Claire, I'm not an expert in the broadest sense of the word, but a rank amateur. I can offer only one suggestion that worked for me with the last two back views. I had similar pull lines from the inner leg/crotch and *one* of the things that helped eliminate them was to take in the CB seam, starting at about 2-3 inches below the waist (I'm short) to the point where the crotch curve starts, not ends (the bottom of your checks, before any wedgie effect). In other words, a couple inches below and above the end of the CB seam (the middle part). By taking in the center back and not the side seams the folds didn't spread out to the sides on that angle you see. I took mine in 1/2" from both sides of the CB seam (long middle area) - total 1 inch. Pin in the area and see, or just pull them up like you did on your above picks, but then grab the CB seam to pull in and see if that eliminates at least some of the pulls. I can't remember how I came about this, someone from the boards suggesting it, in a book or trial and error, but it did help me eliminate most of the folds.

ETA: sorry about the photos, but I have to delete older ones to make room for newer ones. Also, reminded by what JTink said, when I took in the CB seam through the middle area, I let out the side seams to adjust for it (mainly on the stretch denim ones).
-- Edited on 4/16/11 4:17 PM --
mastdenman
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mastdenman  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/16/11 2:34 PM

Try adding a wedge of fabric in the center back and sewing out the same amount in the side seam. Or having someone rotate the middle of the back out a little to see what happens with the wrinkles.

------
Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 4/16/11 3:42 PM

I'm not a pro either, but have found some success with adding a bit more to the top of the side seams. I have hip fluff(muffin tops)and adding a bit there helps me. You can get an idea if this is the trick for you, by tugging down on the sides and see if the wrinkles ease up.

Claire in Montreal
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Claire in Montreal
Advanced Beginner
QC CANADA
Member since 1/22/08
Posts: 1141
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Date: 4/16/11 3:53 PM

DH is taking lots of pics of my butt these days ! LOL

Jtink - with the pants on, I pulled the side seams down - DH said it made no difference

Marilyn - not sure I understood exactly what you want me to do - DH took the CB seam and twisted it a bit, amd said the wrinkles did not get better.

Hazelnut - This was the easiest thing to try and actually get a pic. I made a basting stitch from 2 inches below the waistband seam to the point where the curve starts. The black line in the pic shows the length of the basting stitch. I made it 3/8 inch deep at the midpoint and it curved to nothing at either end. Now I sewed this in the fabric side not within the seam allowance - was that where you meant ? So, the back feels better, so I'll keep that new seam, but the wrinkles didn't change.

-- Edited on 4/16/11 3:55 PM --

------
Claire
1seamatatime.blogspot.com

Kenmore / Necchi BU Mira
Singer 99 (3) / HD110 / 66 (RedEye) / 127 Treadle / 15-90 / 221

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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In reply to Claire in Montreal


Date: 4/16/11 4:30 PM

I also did a 1/2 inch tuck right below my*cheeks* - not quite the fish eye, but fairly evenly across. Since I'm very short in front, even with the belly taking up space, I needed to tuck 1/2 around that area also.

Quote:
Now I sewed this in the fabric side not within the seam allowance - was that where you meant ?
Yes, into the fabric, like if you were taking them in (smaller). I was working with McCalls 6082 with an elastic waist and a totally different body shape though. Each time I tried them on and I bent at the waist*ever-so-slightly* forward (as in turning my butt up/out a bit) according to my DH, all the wrinkles would go away. I guess I need cheek implants! LOL Not making light of this, just trying to help you keep a sense of humour through the fitting ordeal, as I had lost mine several times.

eta Of course, the tuck with not help with these already cut pants, I had to eventually make them to the pattern after making the corrections to the first muslin. I'll try and find that photo and paste it here.
-- Edited on 4/16/11 4:32 PM --
Claire in Montreal
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Claire in Montreal
Advanced Beginner
QC CANADA
Member since 1/22/08
Posts: 1141
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In reply to hazelnut


Date: 4/16/11 4:40 PM

These pants are REALLY comfy and from co-workers who know I sew, got lots of compliments ! They're great for my ego.

After wearing but before I saw the pics, my intention this weekend was to redraw the pattern onto a sturdier paper as a TNT - so any changes I need to make now are with that goal in mind. I'll wear these 'as is' now - tweaking only if I don't have to take 'em apart. But I'm going to start another muslin right away and will incorporate these suggestions - I know most need to be added to the pattern before I start so that's where I am now.

The more I look at these, the more I think i need to attempt an 'official' flat seat adjustment.

I could use some of those cheek implants myself
-- Edited on 4/16/11 4:42 PM --

------
Claire
1seamatatime.blogspot.com

Kenmore / Necchi BU Mira
Singer 99 (3) / HD110 / 66 (RedEye) / 127 Treadle / 15-90 / 221

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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TX USA
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Date: 4/16/11 4:52 PM

removed by poster
-- Edited on 4/16/11 8:39 PM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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TX USA
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In reply to Claire in Montreal


Date: 4/16/11 5:01 PM

.....
-- Edited on 6/20/11 3:49 PM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Leslie in NZ
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Leslie in NZ
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NEW ZEALAND
Member since 12/24/05
Posts: 433
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In reply to Claire in Montreal


Date: 4/16/11 6:32 PM

Claire - thanks for starting this thread. I have the very same issue with my TNT pants pattern, but I gave up and just live with it!! I am hoping to gain some insight from your adventures in fitting

------
Leslie (Auckland, NZ)

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