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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > how to copy ready to wear pants

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how to copy ready to wear pants
copying RTW pants but with bigger waist
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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IL USA
Member since 12/16/05
Posts: 382
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Date: 5/8/11 9:13 AM

I have a pair of linen pants that I just love. everything about them fits me perfectly with the exception of the waist. I apparently have gained my weight around my waist but nowhere else.

I'd like to copy these pants somehow - hips, rise, length etc but I need to make the waist about 1-1/2" larger. maybe 2". They also have front pleats which I would like to eliminate. They lie flat, but for simplicity I'd like them gone. They are fly front with a no belt waistband.

Is there a book out there somewhere describing how t do this? I am never happy with the way things fit but these pants are perfect except for the waist. I"m relatively confident I'll be back in them by mid summer, but until then I'd like to generate a pattern from them.

I'd like to do it without destroying the pants.

HELP!
susie
-- Edited on 5/8/11 9:15 AM --

Michelle L
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Michelle L  Friend of PR
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In reply to avatrx


Date: 5/8/11 9:23 AM

Use painter's tape to create a copy. I did a tutorial a couple of years ago: painter's tape pant copy

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

GBK

GBK  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/8/11 9:28 AM

There's a video on youtube by David Coffin (with a man's pants but the principle should be the same).

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Happy Sewing!

Aixoise

Aixoise  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/8/11 11:47 AM

A really good book on this topic is by Tracy Doyle: Patterns from Finished Clothes. You can find it at Amazon. Also, Sandra Betzina has a video out on this process.

olgarosita
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olgarosita
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Date: 5/8/11 12:06 PM

I am interested in replicating a pair of RTW pants too, and I found both links suggested above very useful. There is one more thing I'm not sure about, and maybe this is a silly question, but: how do I establish what is the straight grain on a pattern traced this way? Thank you!

Michelle L
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Michelle L  Friend of PR
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In reply to olgarosita


Date: 5/8/11 12:32 PM

Your grain line should be based on the leg. fold your finished pattern in half along the long axis of the leg. That is your grain line.

If the grain is not perfectly straight along the leg, the leg will twist.

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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In reply to GBK


Date: 5/8/11 12:41 PM

I did just watch the youtube video by David Coffin. I must have gotten shorted on the learning curve. While he was fairly explicit - my sewing expertise is slim to none when it comes to this stuff.

I"m going to watch it again and look at my pants. I never notice that they had back darts before I watched this video.

thanks for the info. I'm going to persevere. I just wish someone around here held classes on this. sometimes I need to have someone guide me thru it.

avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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In reply to Michelle L


Date: 5/8/11 12:47 PM

What a clever thought. I"m not sure how to handle the back darts, but as for the length and the use of tons of painters tape - I primarily need the pattern from the waist to about mid thigh, I could probably wing it from there without the tape.

I also use the sediment cloth you spoke of. Handy stuff - huh?

thanks!
susie

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/8/11 2:09 PM

Could you also establish the grain line if you draw a line straight across from the crotch point to the side seam and then make the grain line perpendicular to that?

I created a pattern from a pair of RTW pants over a year ago (I used the pin tracing method -- I think it was from one of David Coffin's videos), and I think it will work if I can figure out the details of finishing the fly, pockets, and waist. I slapped together a quick muslin a few months ago, and it actually did fit! My idea now is to adjust a printed pattern based on this pattern I created -- I was puzzling over how to do that this morning. What points should absolutely line up, as opposed to differences that are for style or ease?

GBK

GBK  Friend of PR
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In reply to olgarosita


Date: 5/8/11 2:44 PM

Quote: olgarosita
There is one more thing I'm not sure about, and maybe this is a silly question, but: how do I establish what is the straight grain on a pattern traced this way?

Some (lower quality?) RTW pants don't hang straight where they should -- so I think I'd rather look for the grainline (if necessary with a magnifying glass) and trace some inched with pins or with thread to be on the safe side.

------
Happy Sewing!

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