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Waistband Tutorial?
Wanting a neater finish on the inside
margk

margk  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/22/11 9:45 PM

I have made lots of pants with a zip and waistband, but I would love to do a better job on the inside edge. These are 2 recent pairs. (Both have been worn quite a lot, so I guess, they're not too bad!)

V1051

Jalie

With the Vogue pants, you can see the bulk, but with the Jalie, I trimmed it down, and you can see some fraying. Maybe I trimmed too much.
I am hoping that somewhere out there is a tutorial for attaching a waistband, maybe a completely different method?
-- Edited on 5/22/11 9:50 PM --

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Marg
Tamworth NSW Australia Bernina 1130, Bernina 810B Babylock Imagine Wave Elna 614DE Janome Coverpro 1000 CPX

marec
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In reply to margk


Date: 5/22/11 11:30 PM

Quote:
I have made lots of pants with a zip and waistband, but I would love to do a better job on the inside edge.


wow! Have you been sewing right alongside of me? I just finished the pants from Simplicity 5921 and while the fit is good, and my work is improving...the inside of the waist (no waistband, just facings) is awful. It will hold up but I have tacked areas and trimmed too close to others.

I'd love to have some help on this part!!

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
The more I learn, the less I know.

Sew4Fun
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In reply to margk


Date: 5/23/11 0:58 AM

Marg, there is better way (and a different method than the traditional one explained in sewing instructions) but it's hard to explain. It's basically the burrito method. The same method David Coffin explains in his shirt book for collars and cuffs. I'm trying to think of other sources but I can't at the moment. Do you have the David Coffin book? The method is a little tricky on narrow waistbands but it does give a beautiful finish without that bulk.

Here is what the finished result looks like



As you can see, the other trick is to move the seam that joins the outer and inside waistbands. Rather than having the seam on the front edge, it is moved about 2" to the inside, past the zipper. This helps eliminate a lot of the bulk as well. You do need to trace two waistbands (outer and inner) but it's worth the effort. HTH

-- Edited on 5/23/11 2:19 AM --

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

margk

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Date: 5/23/11 2:31 AM

Belinda, I DO have the Shirtmaking book. I just looked it up and I think I know what you mean. It is a matter of rolling the body of the pants out of the way, so that you can sew around the corner of the waistband from the wrong side, then trim, turn, stitch closed, topstitch etc.

Your beautifully finished, (newly made?) pants put my much worn and fraying example to shame! Inspiring, though!

Thanks so much.

------
Marg
Tamworth NSW Australia Bernina 1130, Bernina 810B Babylock Imagine Wave Elna 614DE Janome Coverpro 1000 CPX

Sew4Fun
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In reply to margk


Date: 5/23/11 3:20 AM

Quote:
It is a matter of rolling the body of the pants out of the way, so that you can sew around the corner of the waistband from the wrong side

Marg, it sounds like you have got the idea. The pants are rolled inside the waistband, then wrap the waistband around from the front edge so the waistbands are now right side together and the pants are rolled inside the waistband. Stitch for an inch or so along the bottom waist edge, grade, and turn right side out. Easier to do on a wide waistband than a narrow one. Once turned right side out you can topstitch or stitch-in-the-ditch to attach the rest of the waistband.

I use lots & lots of pins. It is fiddly but if you can manage it, the results are good.

Sorry no, old pants. Long gone actually. I just dug out the photo to show you what the inside looks like with the offset seam. If you do nothing else, just offsetting the seam makes a huge difference as it's two less layers of fabric in that front corner.

-- Edited on 5/23/11 3:21 AM --

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

margk

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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 5/23/11 4:01 AM

Quote: Sew4Fun
I just dug out the photo to show you what the inside looks like with the offset seam. If you do nothing else, just offsetting the seam makes a huge difference as it's two less layers of fabric in that front corner.

Now I had to have another look. The offset seam - that means the band wraps around; no seam on the end?
When does that seam get stitched? Now I'm having trouble picturing this.

I can remember years and years ago, making a shirt with a collar and stand, following the pattern instructions, and having it turn out like David Coffin's. I remember thinking "why don't all patterns do it like this" but wasn't clever enough to hang onto those instructions.

------
Marg
Tamworth NSW Australia Bernina 1130, Bernina 810B Babylock Imagine Wave Elna 614DE Janome Coverpro 1000 CPX

Sew4Fun
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In reply to margk


Date: 5/23/11 5:27 AM

Quote:
The offset seam - that means the band wraps around; no seam on the end? When does that seam get stitched?

Correct, no seam on the end. The seam gets stitched before you start. Attach the two waistbands (outer and inner) then attach the outer half of the waistband up to the fold.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Leslie in Austin
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Date: 5/23/11 10:50 AM

Thanks Belinda! I've been copying this offset seam from my $$ RTW pants, but didn't associate it with DC's method. Will look to see how he does it. Your finishing is inspiring!!

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Leslie

MNBarb
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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 5/23/11 1:26 PM

Thanks Belinda. I thought I was making OK waistbands but yours has been sewn to perfection. I love the moving of the seam and I'm familiar with the "coffin technique". I'm trying this on my next pair of pants (or maybe I'll just try a sample while it's fresh in my brain).

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Lynnelle
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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 5/24/11 7:29 AM

Hot Patterns has a video on how to finish the waistband this way. There was one part of the video that didn't make sense to me; I emailed HP and never got a response. Perhaps you'll have better luck.

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