Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Pant body space: Redraw side seam to knee or crotch line? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Pant body space: Redraw side seam to knee or crotch line?
Ashford
star
Ashford
Advanced Beginner
TX USA
Member since 5/14/10
Posts: 305
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/4/11 3:24 PM

I made my tin foil mold for the body space (the hole) required in a pant. When I compare the body mold to my pattern, I need 2 more inches of space at the Back hip level.

I decided to use the method where the amount you cut away for the wider hole must be added back at the side seam. This maintains the fabric width you need to go across the hips.

I cut the pattern at the hip line and shifted the top piece over the 2". Next step is to redraw the side seam to connect the extended hip piece back to the original leg. Is my connection point on the original leg seam at the crotch line or the knee line?

If my description is unclear, click here to see photos of my Pant Fitting progress
-- Edited on 6/4/11 3:33 PM --
-- Edited on 6/4/11 3:50 PM --
-- Edited on 6/8/11 5:04 PM --

------
Know, first, who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly. ~Epictetus

GBK

GBK  Friend of PR
Intermediate
GERMANY
Member since 12/24/07
Posts: 900
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Ashford


Date: 6/4/11 3:54 PM

It may be just my computer but the link did not work for me ... It sounds like the Joyce Murphy technique but a visual would help.

------
Happy Sewing!

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 5706
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Ashford


Date: 6/4/11 4:33 PM

This visual is great. I'm no expert, but for a more gradual line, I would go to the knee.

skae
star
skae  Friend of PR
Advanced
MN USA
Member since 4/23/07
Posts: 3080
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/4/11 6:20 PM

here a little help with the picture.

------
Galatians 5:22-23 The Spirit produces love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, humility, and self-control. There is no law against such things as these

LindaP
star
LindaP  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 69
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/4/11 6:32 PM

Thanks for posting this, I think I need to do this too. Interestingly, the shape of your back piece is angled like the Lutterloh pants so I think I need to try one of the Lutterloh pants drafts.

As for your side seam, here's what I would do. Match the front SS and back SS at the waist, and line up the grain lines. Then draw the back SS to match the front SS so they true up.

LindaP
star
LindaP  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 69
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/4/11 6:47 PM

Not to take you off track, just a little tidbit. Ann has a good picture on her blog that shows the shape of the typical Lutterloh pant. http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/07/how-i-sew-together-pattern.html

Sew4Fun
starstarstarstar
Sew4Fun
Advanced
AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/23/04
Posts: 4868
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Ashford


Date: 6/4/11 7:17 PM

Definitely the knee.

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Ashford
star
Ashford
Advanced Beginner
TX USA
Member since 5/14/10
Posts: 305
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/5/11 4:20 AM

Thank you, everyone, for your replies, kind assistance, and interest in helping me learn how to sew. I hate to report that my adjustment was a failure. I was so convinced it would work.

I am still getting the severe pulling from the knee with even a small movement. The tension is showing as diagonal creases from the knee up to the derriere apex.

-Diagonal creases or folds point to the problem.
-Creases mean tightness.
---This means the Derriere is still pulling up and back, grabbing fabric from the Front.

I am missing something in the way I did this pattern adjustment. Right now I need some sleep. I will try again tomorrow.

Update: I just heard from Patricia, the instructor at perfectsewandfit.com. She says I have to keep the hip line straight. I will look at the drawings for the Lutterloh pattern tomorrow and see how they do that slanted shape and keep the hip line straight.









-- Edited on 6/5/11 4:22 AM --
-- Edited on 6/5/11 4:54 AM --

------
Know, first, who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly. ~Epictetus

Dotmoll
Dotmoll
Advanced Beginner
JAPAN
Member since 8/27/07
Posts: 589
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/5/11 4:56 AM

OK, I'll bite...I considered responding earlier but sat on my hands.

Are you more knock-kneed, or more bow-legged (what we call "alligator legs" in Japanese!).

I'm knock-kneed, and in my case, extending the back crotch extension and straightening the curved inseam area from crotch to knee gives me fullness more where I need it.

If I add to the sideseam (e.g. from hip to knee) I just get flapping fabric where I don't need it so much.

However, please ask yourself FIRST whether you are the type whose knees grind together when you put your ankles together, or whether you are more likely to have a gap at knee level when your ankles are together?

LindaP
star
LindaP  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 69
Login to reply to this post

Date: 6/5/11 9:51 AM

When you described your wrinkles, I was thinking knock knees too. Here's an article by Sandra Betzina with a solution for that. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4244/everyone-can-have-jeans-that-fit

Also, have you watched Peggy Sager's webcast on Pants Fitting. http://www.livestream.com/silhouettepatterns/video?clipId=pla_78ffc956-970d-4ac7-a8a1-29a542a2ece4&utm_source=lslibrary&utm_medium=ui-thumb

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Pant body space: Redraw side seam to knee or crotch line?

Merchants on PR
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Create a Jacket Muslin
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Create a Jacket Muslin

Online Sewing Classes
Restyling with Exposed Zippers
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Restyling with Exposed Zippers

Vogue Patterns 8117
photo
Review by FreyaStark on 9/1/08
Read Review

Christine Jonson BaseWear One - Leggings, Top and Yoga Bodysuit
Christine Jonson BaseWear One - Leggings, Top and Yoga Bodysuit

Details
Price: $18.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sew Chic Phantom Jacket and Pant Pattern (ln1106)
Sew Chic Phantom Jacket and Pant Pattern (ln1106)

Details
Price: $18.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S Apple-Picking Dress Digital Pattern (Size 5-12)
Oliver + S Apple-Picking Dress Digital Pattern (Size 5-12)

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Classic T-Strap Booties Digital Pattern ( Size 3-18 mos )
Peek-A Boo Classic T-Strap Booties Digital Pattern ( Size 3-18 mos )

Details
Price: $3.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Palmer Pletsch 001 Apron
photo
Review by Learn To S... on 6/26/08
Read Review

Kwik Sew 3053 Pattern
Kwik Sew 3053 Pattern

Details
Price: $11.49
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3518 Pattern
Kwik Sew 3518 Pattern

Details
Price: $11.49
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN