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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pant body space: Redraw side seam to knee or crotch line? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pant body space: Redraw side seam to knee or crotch line?
Ashford
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Ashford  Friend of PR
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Member since 5/14/10
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Date: 6/4/11 3:24 PM

I made my tin foil mold for the body space (the hole) required in a pant. When I compare the body mold to my pattern, I need 2 more inches of space at the Back hip level.

I decided to use the method where the amount you cut away for the wider hole must be added back at the side seam. This maintains the fabric width you need to go across the hips.

I cut the pattern at the hip line and shifted the top piece over the 2". Next step is to redraw the side seam to connect the extended hip piece back to the original leg. Is my connection point on the original leg seam at the crotch line or the knee line?

If my description is unclear, click here to see photos of my Pant Fitting progress
-- Edited on 6/4/11 3:33 PM --
-- Edited on 6/4/11 3:50 PM --
-- Edited on 6/8/11 5:04 PM --

------
Know, first, who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly. ~Epictetus

GBK

GBK  Friend of PR
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In reply to Ashford


Date: 6/4/11 3:54 PM

It may be just my computer but the link did not work for me ... It sounds like the Joyce Murphy technique but a visual would help.

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Happy Sewing!

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Ashford


Date: 6/4/11 4:33 PM

This visual is great. I'm no expert, but for a more gradual line, I would go to the knee.

skae
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skae  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/4/11 6:20 PM

here a little help with the picture.

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Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

LindaP
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LindaP  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/4/11 6:32 PM

Thanks for posting this, I think I need to do this too. Interestingly, the shape of your back piece is angled like the Lutterloh pants so I think I need to try one of the Lutterloh pants drafts.

As for your side seam, here's what I would do. Match the front SS and back SS at the waist, and line up the grain lines. Then draw the back SS to match the front SS so they true up.

LindaP
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LindaP  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/4/11 6:47 PM

Not to take you off track, just a little tidbit. Ann has a good picture on her blog that shows the shape of the typical Lutterloh pant. http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/07/how-i-sew-together-pattern.html

Sew4Fun
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In reply to Ashford


Date: 6/4/11 7:17 PM

Definitely the knee.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Ashford
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Ashford  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/5/11 4:20 AM

Thank you, everyone, for your replies, kind assistance, and interest in helping me learn how to sew. I hate to report that my adjustment was a failure. I was so convinced it would work.

I am still getting the severe pulling from the knee with even a small movement. The tension is showing as diagonal creases from the knee up to the derriere apex.

-Diagonal creases or folds point to the problem.
-Creases mean tightness.
---This means the Derriere is still pulling up and back, grabbing fabric from the Front.

I am missing something in the way I did this pattern adjustment. Right now I need some sleep. I will try again tomorrow.

Update: I just heard from Patricia, the instructor at perfectsewandfit.com. She says I have to keep the hip line straight. I will look at the drawings for the Lutterloh pattern tomorrow and see how they do that slanted shape and keep the hip line straight.









-- Edited on 6/5/11 4:22 AM --
-- Edited on 6/5/11 4:54 AM --

------
Know, first, who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly. ~Epictetus

Dotmoll
Dotmoll
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Date: 6/5/11 4:56 AM

OK, I'll bite...I considered responding earlier but sat on my hands.

Are you more knock-kneed, or more bow-legged (what we call "alligator legs" in Japanese!).

I'm knock-kneed, and in my case, extending the back crotch extension and straightening the curved inseam area from crotch to knee gives me fullness more where I need it.

If I add to the sideseam (e.g. from hip to knee) I just get flapping fabric where I don't need it so much.

However, please ask yourself FIRST whether you are the type whose knees grind together when you put your ankles together, or whether you are more likely to have a gap at knee level when your ankles are together?

LindaP
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LindaP  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/5/11 9:51 AM

When you described your wrinkles, I was thinking knock knees too. Here's an article by Sandra Betzina with a solution for that. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4244/everyone-can-have-jeans-that-fit

Also, have you watched Peggy Sager's webcast on Pants Fitting. http://www.livestream.com/silhouettepatterns/video?clipId=pla_78ffc956-970d-4ac7-a8a1-29a542a2ece4&utm_source=lslibrary&utm_medium=ui-thumb

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