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Forum > Fitting Woes > Confused on N. Zieman extensions ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Confused on N. Zieman extensions
smutnys
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smutnys  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/14/11 10:29 PM

I'm trying to figure out how to adjust a pattern using Nancy Zieman's Pattern Fitting with Confidence.

I understand the examples she has in her book, but of course my particular case isn't in there. I do not need extensions for my sleeve. I only need to pivot the maximum of 2" (1" per side seam)

However, I do need extensions at the bust. I need an increase of 6 1/2 " which means 2 1/2" will need to be extensions because I can only pivot a max of 1" per cut edge.

But she explains in her book how sleeve and bust extensions need to match. And the sleeve extensions help to determine the bust pivot. But I don't need sleeve extensions.

Now I'm not sure what to do. :(

Nadine

Not sure

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Kemish
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Date: 6/15/11 11:12 AM

I'm not sure how to use the pivot and slide method either however, have you contacted her website (sent an email) or even called them. They have a retail store in Beaver Dam, WI. I have found that they are very helpful (when asking about something on the TV show) and will either get you the answer right then or will get back to you with the answer. I have met Nancy Zieman several times and she is very nice (funny too) but mostly she loves to teach and pass on good sound sewing techniques and wants her students to succeed. I would send them an email and explain the issue and see what happens.

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CM_Sews
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Date: 6/15/11 3:54 PM

I don't have the book in front of me, but you add extensions to both the sleeve and the bodice so that the sleeve will fit the bodice. In your case, if you don't add extensions to the sleeves, they will be 1 1/4-inches too small for the arm hole.

CMC




-- Edited on 6/15/11 3:57 PM --

smutnys
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Date: 6/15/11 11:16 PM

Thank you.

I did call Nancy's Notions and was told that I need to add the extension to the sleeve edges in order for it to fit the bodice armscye. However, I will have extra fabric that I really don't need under the arm.

Or I could just eliminate the .75" bust extensions since there is 5" of ease built into the pattern. Even without the extensions I would still have about 3" ease at the bust.

Nadine

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http://nsosaat.blogspot.com

mudpie
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Date: 6/13/12 5:12 PM

Hi. I have been wondering about this problem too - i.e. when you need to do an extension for the bust but not the sleeve.

I have come up with a possible solution, but being pretty much a beginner in pattern alteration, am not sure if it would work.

Is it possible to add the necessary extension to the sleeve, so it will fit in the armhole, but then do a 'negative pivot' on the sleeve, to decrease it's width, so that the circumference of the upper arm is reduced?


-- Edited on 6/13/12 5:24 PM --

JeanM

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In reply to mudpie <<


Date: 6/13/12 6:29 PM

If you add the extensions to the sleeve, but need to reduce the overall circumference, you would need to take a wedge (or wedges) out of the center of the sleeve - so the armhole edge would match up but you didn't have the extra around the arm. Sort of like putting a dart in the center of the sleeve.

(I really need to draw a picture! The words just aren't lining up the way I want.)

I used the pivot and slide method when I first started really working on fitting - but now (several years later) use pivot & slide for some alterations, but not for others (for example FBA a la Palmer & Pletsch works better for me - with the pivot and slide I ended up with extra fabric where I didn't need it, and not quite enough where I did need it...).

LynnRowe
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In reply to smutnys <<


Date: 6/13/12 7:09 PM

I would suggest you do a FBA rather than pivot and slide. As you use P&S, you will come across times where it's just not the best way. This is the case with pretty much every sewing technique, which is why every seamster has their own tool box of techniques, rather than one method only.

Yours is such a case. With P&S extension, you'd be adding unnecessary width to the lower side seam and the sleeve. An FBA will add the extra room where you need it, not where you don't.

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LynnRowe
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In reply to smutnys <<


Date: 6/13/12 7:15 PM

PS: you could steal width from the pattern ease, but this isn't ideal, unless you don't like the pattern's silhouette and wish to change it. If you do want to change the silhouette to less ease, ie closer fit, it really should be done in relation to the entire garment.

When you steal from the built in ease, your garment won't be as per the design, and you're not reducing the overall silhouette, you're doing so in one area only. This may not give you the look you want.

Or it may. You dunno until you sew. Learn to love muslins.

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I heart Woo (HimmyCat). Until we meet again, my beautiful little boy. I love you.

Irene

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Date: 6/13/12 11:23 PM

I don't like to use P&S at the bust. I use a small size (so small armhole), and P&S creates a weird angle at the armhole/sleeve seam. A Fit for Real People FBA preserves the shape of the upper armhole and then flares out only where needed, at the bottom of the armhole curve. The armhole measurement does not increase; the angle of the armhole curve changes. Making a fairly large adjustment with P&S would also cause the armhole to slant significantly.

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