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I need help with bust darts!!
Pointy bust darts
ChelseaLeigh
ChelseaLeigh
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 4/29/10
Posts: 14
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Date: 6/18/11 9:42 PM

I need help please! I have read all the forums and boards on bust darts that I could possibly find and I am still getting it wrong! I have done everything that all my patternmaking books have told me to do, and I have made the pattern 3 different times.

I have stitched the dart in a curve to the dart point, 5/8" away from the bust point (for a B cup), I've stitched it straight to the dart piont, but they are still pointy!

I have attached a photo of the top I've made (in the center) surrounded by what the top is supposed to look like. I know the bottom is too loose, but that's because it isn't fastened in the back. After I fastened it, the darts were still pointy. Any insight would be helpful. A visual aid would be great, as I learn better that way than by just words, but I'll take anything!

Point Bust Photo
-- Edited on 6/18/11 9:44 PM --

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~Chelsea Leigh~
@-->---

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
USA
Member since 4/11/02
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In reply to ChelseaLeigh


Date: 6/18/11 9:48 PM

Have you pressed the dart flat as stitched, and then pressed it over a rounded surface, such as a pressing ham?

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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Virginia USA
Member since 7/27/05
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Date: 6/18/11 10:22 PM

FWIW, Peggy Sagers recommends sewing from the point to the wide end since it's more important to get the point just right.

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

ukdame
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ukdame
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 8/1/08
Posts: 1821
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In reply to ChelseaLeigh


Date: 6/18/11 10:55 PM

I do a lot of darts and usually add or adjust the darts on RTW blouses I buy. I think the trick of it is to try it on and measure exactly where your bust is since it may be different than the pattern. From your pic it appears that your bust actually is higher than where the dart is laying. The side dart should pretty much finish mid side of bust and the lower dart centered mid bust just below the under side. Darts should not meet each other. I usually check darts after pinning them in front a full length mirror ( back side out) so you can adjust the pins as needed for each side. I then baste the pinned lines and fit again. Most women are not identical on each side. I hope this helps. Perhaps someone has close up pics that will help. Lastly , do not sew front to back unitl yu are happy w/the fitting.

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It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something. ~ Franklin D Roosevelt 1843
Janome 19606 ,Janome My Excel 4023, Brother 1034D, White 1750C, Kenmore 158.1803, White 764, Brother 780D.

ChelseaLeigh
ChelseaLeigh
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 4/29/10
Posts: 14
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 6/19/11 1:26 AM

I only just learned about a tailor's ham today! How sad is that? Tomorrow I'm going to Joann Fabrics to buy one. I'll let you know how it works out.

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~Chelsea Leigh~
@-->---

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
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Date: 6/19/11 2:22 AM

Hi Chelsea,
looking at your picture the bust point is too low. But the reason your darts are pointy is because you have to finish the dart about 1 inch away from the bust point ( and still depends on the bust shape ). Also the dart looks better if the dart legs are curved in. After you have stitched the dart, press it to one side on tailor's ham, by all means!
Keep us posted

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www.iconicpatterns.com

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New Hampshire USA
Member since 3/19/04
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Date: 6/19/11 10:50 AM

I made a top with a similar dart and had the same problem. I fixed it by changing the dart to gathers - don't know if that would work for you. Otherwise, try splitting the dart into two or three smaller ones. You can keep them under the bust (maybe 1" apart), or rotate one to the underarm or to the CF (between the girls). Or use a knit.

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 4/1/08
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In reply to ChelseaLeigh


Date: 6/20/11 1:27 AM

ChelseaLeigh,

Glad your getting a ham; in a pinch, towels can be rolled, shaped and formed for steaming and pressing. I thought that your top also looked like it had a little extra fabric in the under the bust circumference that allows it to stand away from your body.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

ChelseaLeigh
ChelseaLeigh
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 4/29/10
Posts: 14
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Date: 6/22/11 7:07 PM

I got a tailor's ham, and revised my pattern. I raised the bust point to the appropriate spot, and I am still having a little trouble.

I sewed it on a curve, I stitched it by hand on the dart point to be sure that it was precisely on the dot.

Here is my pattern:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/chelsea_leigh/5861169857/in/set-72157627024929954/

And here is the bust after sewing the heck out of it on a tailor's ham:



wwwwhhhhyyyyyy?????
-- Edited on 6/22/11 7:08 PM --

------
~Chelsea Leigh~
@-->---

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New Hampshire USA
Member since 3/19/04
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Date: 6/23/11 10:27 AM

That single dart is just too big. You'll need to move some of it to at least one more dart, either at the side, the armhole and/or the center front. Or, you can move it to the armhole and turn both darts into a princess seam.
-- Edited on 6/23/11 10:28 AM --

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