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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Finishing armholes with hidden bias binding ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Finishing armholes with hidden bias binding
Not pretty !
RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
Advanced Beginner
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 449
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Date: 6/20/11 3:45 AM

Hello !

I've spend last night trying to finish the armholes of Vogue 8731 with hidden bias binding (woven wrap dress). This is not something I do often.

Unfortunately, I always get
- either ripples all around
- or "flared out" armholes.

Very unsightly.

I staystitched the edge very close to the seamline, so I thought that it wouldn't stretch, yet it seems that it does ...
I also steamed the bias into shape before attaching it.

My fabric is rayon woven (no lycra/spandex).

I've read everything and its contrary about this kind of finishes, but I can't get it right. Do you have a suggestion about it ? What is the secret to a nice, flat biais finish ?

Thank you !

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

squirrellypoo
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squirrellypoo
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Date: 6/20/11 5:25 AM

Are you using purchased bias binding, or ones you've made from the same fabric as the garment? I find the purchased stuff is usually pretty stiff and unpliable, and I prefer to use my own as it curves more nicely (and matches better inside, too)!

I made a photo tutorial on how to sew a narrow bias edgelast year that might help?

------
www.fehrtrade.com

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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FRANCE
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Date: 6/20/11 6:07 AM

I use purchased bias tape because I didn't have enough fabric for self-fabric bias (it requests 5 yard of it to finish all the edges ... ).

I read your tutorial and will have a try tonight or tomorrow. It seems much more straight-forward than what I do (ie : unfold the tape, place it right sides together, stitch 3/8" from raw edges, re-fold, turn under and topstitch).

This is annoying because the dress itself is easy and very pretty, but this bias ... it drives me crazy.

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

gramma b
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gramma b
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In reply to squirrellypoo


Date: 6/20/11 6:58 AM

Super-can't wait to try it!
I have put off the new silkies because of the
pesky edge finishing!
So, do you do anything special for hems?

mssewcrazy
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mssewcrazy  Friend of PR
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In reply to squirrellypoo


Date: 6/20/11 7:30 AM

I bookmarked the tutorial-love it as even the width to cut the strip is there. Thanks for linking to it.

squirrellypoo
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squirrellypoo
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In reply to gramma b
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Date: 6/20/11 7:47 AM

Quote: kso
So, do you do anything special for hems?

If it's a straight hem, nope. I just turn the edge under and then under again and topstitch with the machine. I like a narrow hem to echo the stitching on the other edges.

------
www.fehrtrade.com

Rainspa

Rainspa  Friend of PR
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California USA
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Date: 6/20/11 4:05 PM

I'm a big cheater face, so I used foldover elastic.

------
I'm going to Costume College!

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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Date: 6/21/11 3:22 AM

So I tried Squirellypoo's way and it looks good !

Strangely enough, when I unpicked my previous attempts, I noticed that the bias strip I used was now way shorter than the armhole. So either I stretched the bias while sewing and it shrunk back (is it possible ?), or I stretched the armhole - despite the staystitching.

I was really careful not to stretch the new bias while sewing it, and it looks like it did the trick. Plus it's very clean on the inside, the bias' width is even all along so the topstitching looks consistent inside, too.

Thanks Squirelly, you saved this poor dress :)

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

squirrellypoo
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squirrellypoo
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In reply to RoseFromThule


Date: 6/21/11 5:47 AM

Quote: RoseFromThule
Thanks Squirelly, you saved this poor dress :)

Yayyy! Glad I could help!

------
www.fehrtrade.com

maide

maide  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/27/09
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In reply to squirrellypoo


Date: 6/21/11 10:14 AM

Great tutorial. I will have to try it your way. Usually (always) when it calls for bias binding I make facings, but I do like your way. Thank you.

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