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Forum > Fitting Woes > AGHHHH Pivot and Slide ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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AGHHHH Pivot and Slide
What am I doing wrong adjusting this sleeve?
lrstanfill
lrstanfill
Advanced Beginner
Kentucky USA
Member since 10/18/09
Posts: 42
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Date: 6/23/11 8:59 PM

For those of you who use the Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide method to adjust fit, please help!

Recently I bought Pattern Fitting with Confidence and fell in love. This method makes so much sense and looks like it will be a lot easier than the slash and spread method that I've been using with out any luck.

So here is my problem. According to Nancy's "Right Size Measuring" I should be a size 18 (my chest width measures 14 3/4"). But I definitely will have to do major alterations since I have a very full bust, arms, hips, etc (I'm about a RTW20/22). I'm fine with that. I just want to sew something that fits correctly.

So I cut the sleeve for size 18.

According to my measurements versus the flat pattern measurements, I need to add 2" to the sleeve (1" on each side). Nancy says that you can add up to 2 inches without having to add extensions. So I marked 1" on either side of the pattern.

Then, with my pin in the seam line, I pivoted the pattern to the 1" mark.

Then I pivoted the other direction. BUT WHEN I LOOKED AT THE FINAL CURVE, there is no way it is right.

WTH? Why do I have that dip in the cap of my sleeve? I only drew the line to the half way point each time. Nancy's instructions clearly say that "by changing the pattern equally on both sides of the grain, the seam and the design lines are kept in proportion to the original pattern"
The example in the book clearly does not have this problem.


Suggestions please?!? I really want to master this technique.
-- Edited on 6/23/11 8:59 PM --

frame
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frame
USA
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Date: 6/23/11 11:07 PM

You are doing fine. Now just smooth out the cap. And congratulations for getting this far.

------
"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

waikikimum
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waikikimum
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/1/08
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In reply to lrstanfill


Date: 6/24/11 5:38 AM

I hope someone else posts about this as I have this same problem. I too start with an 18 but have a large bust and hips etc. I find this book only ever shows the alterations for very minor adjustments which are mighty different for those of us who need to add a lot more. I love the idea of pivot and slide but have had some mixed results.

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 6/24/11 9:18 AM

True your sleeve cap and you should be fine. What Nancy is saying by [QUOTE]"by changing the pattern equally on both sides of the grain, the seam and the design lines are kept in proportion to the original pattern"" is that you are keeping the grainlines even at the sideseams and you are not changing the design lines by cutting more on the bias.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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California USA
Member since 9/18/04
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Date: 6/24/11 1:06 PM

From your photos, it looks as if you are pivoting from the edge of the pattern, rather than from the seam line, 5/8-inch inside the edge of the pattern -- on the cap of the sleeve, at least. (And I could be reading the photos wrong.)

I think the "dip" would go away if the sleeve cap pivot point was on the seam line of the sleeve cap.

I concur with the advice to just true that line and you should be just fine.

CMC
-- Edited on 6/24/11 1:12 PM --

lrstanfill
lrstanfill
Advanced Beginner
Kentucky USA
Member since 10/18/09
Posts: 42
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Date: 6/24/11 6:11 PM

Thanks everyone for your responses!

I am definitely pivoting from the seam line, so that is not a problem. I will just true the line and go with what I've got. I just figured out I am going to have to do a shoulder adjustment, anyway, so I guess it may still change.

toocute
toocute
Member since 3/11/07
Posts: 3
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Date: 7/10/11 10:55 AM

I think you are definitely on the right track. I would just like to know how it turned out. You are making your adjustments for bust with extensions also, right? I love the pivot and slide method. It gives me a much better fit than fiddling around with alot of other methods. I know most people do an FBA adjustment but I found that the shoulder and neck area are too darn big when I do that and I have to do a whole lot of altering. With this method, I pivot and slide the sleeve, bust, also waist and hip but it's easy. I must have a small shoulder/upper chest but huge bust, waist and hips. I hate that but it is what it is.

I hope you had success. The advice to true up that cap curve on the sleeve should work.

toocute
toocute
Member since 3/11/07
Posts: 3
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Date: 7/10/11 11:09 AM

I think you are definitely on the right track. I would just like to know how it turned out. You are making your adjustments for bust with extensions also, right? I love the pivot and slide method. It gives me a much better fit than fiddling around with alot of other methods. I know most people do an FBA adjustment but I found that the shoulder and neck area are too darn big when I do that and I have to do a whole lot of altering. With this method, I pivot and slide the sleeve, bust, also waist and hip but it's easy. I must have a small shoulder/upper chest but huge bust, waist and hips. I hate that but it is what it is.

I hope you had success. The advice to true up that cap curve on the sleeve should work.
-- Edited on 7/10/11 11:09 AM --

solosmocker
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solosmocker
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New York USA
Member since 1/23/06
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Date: 7/10/11 9:50 PM

I am a big fan of P&S. I think you are fine once the cap is trued. This method allows the sleeve to fit the armhole perfectly, even though width has been added, therefore, the funky look to the cap.

------
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

jackielynn
jackielynn
Member since 5/16/14
Posts: 4
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Date: 6/21/14 10:23 PM

I also like the pivot and slide method, but not sure how you do this for say a increase of six inches, pivot and slide 1/2 per side seams for total of 2 inches, then is the extension done by measuring out 1 inch from new cutting line by drawing in new cutting line or is another pivot and slide done ?

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