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Gaping armhole fix - problem
Why does this happen, and what can be done about it?
HarrietHomeowner

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Date: 8/1/11 11:03 AM

I thought I'd start a new thread about this rather than continuing to hijack Paulag's thread about her Sorbetto top.

I tried making this pattern, and it mostly fit. The back fits well, but it gapes at the front armhole and center front. It is plenty roomy everywhere; I took it in a bit under the arms (sewing the seam just under the arms about a 1/2" deeper on each side) but the gaping was still there. I found this tutorial (instructing how to rotate the extra fabric in the armhole to the bust dart) and decided to try it:

Get rid of a gaping armhole

I sewed up a muslin of this, and It did work, but now the top is too tight across the bust. This is WITHOUT the little fix I did on the first top -- just with the alteration described in the link. I tried letting out the side seams 1/4" on each side (so adding an inch all around), it is still uncomfortable. So now I'm trying to figure out how to add to the side seams while preserving the fix for the gap provided by the alteration.

If you look at photo #15 in the link, you will see a very uneven side seam that curves in at the top. Should it be smoother? How would one do that? If I simply add to this side seam, will it negate the alteration? Help! What am I missing? TIA

sewsally
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Date: 8/1/11 11:05 AM

Maybe you need a full bust adjustment.
That would add width across the front.

The darts look a little long too. Should end about 1/2-1" away from the bust point not on it.
-- Edited on 8/1/11 11:07 AM --

HarrietHomeowner

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Date: 8/1/11 11:14 AM

So the adjustment does not function as an FBA, and I should do one in addition?

And yes, in this pattern the darts are oddly long. I wonder if that was intentional for some style reason? I shortened them on my muslin.

JTink
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner


Date: 8/1/11 12:28 PM

That tutorial is interesting. If you are larger than a B cup, you are probably in need of the FBA. According to FFRP the armhole gap happens because of the full bust. I have also found, in some of my own personal garments, that it can come from too much length between the upper bust and shoulder. Can you post a picture of you in your muslin? What pattern are you using?

Sherril Miller
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Date: 8/1/11 12:57 PM

That alteration doesn't function as a FBA. It doesn't give you any more room in the bust than was already there. Rotating the fabric into the dart is only a way to eliminate the extra fabric, not give you more room.

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If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

HarrietHomeowner

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Date: 8/1/11 6:28 PM

So the question now: Should I use the altered pattern to make the FBA or start over? Was lack of the FBA the problem to begin with?

Thanks!

Nancy K
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner


Date: 8/4/11 11:11 AM

I'd start over because an fba should get rid of gaping in the armhole. The shape of the armhole will change and pull it in closer to your body. If you still have gaping than you can do the fix you described, and it will add to the dart you already have.

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HarrietHomeowner

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Date: 8/4/11 4:26 PM

Thanks, that's what I was thinking.

The question then is: how much of an FBA to make? If I'm a C cup and presumably this pattern is for a B, then 1 inch? Or should I go by how much of a gap there was when I made up the original pattern (about 1 1/4")?

Sorry I don't have pictures, just don't have time to take them. But I appreciate the help.

sewsally
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Date: 8/4/11 5:06 PM

If the original is a test garment, you can cut it to see how much spread you need. Just like doing a full bust adjustment only on fabric.

JTink
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Date: 8/4/11 5:48 PM

As sewsally said, you could use the garment you have made and cut it. Or, I find it easier to pin fit my pattern pieces. Since it only fits one half of the body, it's easy to measure the difference from the pattern seam to your center front.

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