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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pants -- is this a crotch depth issue? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pants -- is this a crotch depth issue?
waist band too low
kc

kc
Minnesota USA
Member since 3/3/04
Posts: 24
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 8/28/11 11:09 AM

I just made up a pair of Jalie 2686 pants. Everything looks good except the wedgie. On my body the waist band sits low and I'm having a hard time keeping it in place, if I pull too much then I get the wedgie, but everything else still look good.

I compared it with an RTW pair that fits well and the RTW waist sits higher at the natural waist. I'd like to raise the waist on the Jalie -- low rise never worked for me because I always feel like my pants are falling off.

Can I simply increase the crotch depth? I have another pants pattern where there is a horizontal cutting line right above the crotch where you would cut and lengthen. There is no such line on the Jalie pattern, Can I use the same approach on the Jalie? Thanks very much in advance.

Kemish
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Kemish  Friend of PR
California USA
Member since 4/24/06
Posts: 292
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 8/28/11 1:30 PM

A wedgie? You mean the crotch is too short and it is cutting into your body? I think adding more room in the crotch would help. If there isn't a crotch line on the pattern then (what I do) is simply draw the grainline all the way up to the waist band. Then draw a crotch line perpendicular to the grain line from the point on the crotch curve to the side seam. Then I would make another line parallel to the crotch line maybe 1in above this and split the pattern here. I think (well at least for me) I need the room in the back (not the front) so I make a hinge at the side seam and only split the pattern at the center back seam - like a wedge. I do this in very small increments until I get what I want. I think this may help. There are probably several tutorials here on PR about this but I am afraid I don't know were to direct you. This site is a little clunky to find info.

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Kemish

halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
Pennsylvania USA
Member since 3/27/07
Posts: 1688
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 8/28/11 1:36 PM

Pants patterns are always too low in the back. On the back I slash a couple inches up from the crotch starting at the center back over to the side seams leaving a hinge and spread the amount needed. The side seam length does not change but it brings it up in the back where I don't get a wedgie.

kc

kc
Minnesota USA
Member since 3/3/04
Posts: 24
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 8/28/11 2:49 PM

It seems like I need more length in the front. Will it work if I made a hinge in the front pattern by slashing from the crotch seam toward the outside seam and spread?

This is where I saw the idea:

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4244/everyone-can-have-jeans-that-fit

Scroll down to where it says
To shorten or lengthen the crotch

halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
Pennsylvania USA
Member since 3/27/07
Posts: 1688
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to kc


Date: 8/28/11 4:48 PM

Sure it can be done on the front or the back since it doesn't change the length at the sides.

BJ1400
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BJ1400
West Virginia USA
Member since 10/29/03
Posts: 2851
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 9/6/12 10:34 AM

bumping this for future reference
pantsthread

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Beverly.

Sewing Makes Me Happy

http://bjsewmuchmore.blogspot.com

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