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FBA on asymmetric bodice
Shoulder and waist gathers, lining with darts...
KatieA

KatieA
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/30/05
Posts: 377
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Date: 8/31/11 9:11 AM

I'm going to make Butterick 5281 and I typically need about 4" of an FBA, sometimes partly achieved through a broad back adjustment (which isn't a problem).

This pattern has an asymmetric front with gathers at the R shoulder, and at the L waist where the zipper inserts. It also has a lining which only has waist darts (symmetrical). So neither outer nor lining have bust darts.

If it had just shoulder gathers, but both sides, I would rotate the extra fullness into the shoulder gathers. If it had waist gathers or tucks only, I would rotate fullness there.

I'm not sure
a) what to do about the outer garment fullness - rotate all of it to the one shoulder (sounds very wrong!), rotate one side to the shoulder gathers, one side to the waist gathers (makes sense but sounds confusing) or add bust darts (really would rather avoid that!)

b) what to do about the inner - adjust it the same, clearly (I think the back is cut from the same piece but the front isn't) - can I rotate bust fullness to waist DARTS in the same way I can to waist tucks/gathers??

Thanks all!

misschris
misschris
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/3/06
Posts: 1599
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In reply to KatieA


Date: 8/31/11 3:56 PM

Quote:
rotate one side to the shoulder gathers, one side to the waist gathers


This is what I would do. With such a large FBA (mine's similar) you may even find it looks/fits better if you split the extra and do small bust or waist darts as well.

Quote:
can I rotate bust fullness to waist DARTS in the same way I can to waist tucks/gathers


Absolutely! You can deal with the "dart" in any way you like, wherever it is, depending on the effect you want. In this case, it would be too bulky to gather the inner piece, so a dart would be better.

------
chris

Melbourne

Tizmehr
Tizmehr
Advanced
Ontario CANADA
Member since 2/21/11
Posts: 184
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In reply to KatieA


Date: 8/31/11 4:19 PM

In my opinion adding bust darts to the outer bodice wouldn't work. I think that it would detract from the lines of the dress. I would rotate the added fullness one to the shoulder and one to the side. After all that's really what the designer did. That said though, I'd definitely make up a muslin of this one.
For the inner layer, I'd think you're on track with taking the fullness to the waist dart.

KatieA

KatieA
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/30/05
Posts: 377
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Date: 8/31/11 4:53 PM

Thanks, I am going to try the lining in the lining fabric (but with large seams) after tissue fitting, I won't make a muslin of that, but I think I will of the outer bodice.

I've just tried the alterations on the tissue of the lining - rotating the fullness to the waist darts. I don't intend to sew them all the way up as I need a bit more fullness at the waist too.

I've not done this with waist darts before, they start at the bust and then I'm randomly choosing the overlap at the bottom to fit my waist, right?

One side of the lining front stops at the yoke, so it looks like I might have to gather that bit to fit, because to match the other side it needs to be a bit wider than it is. But it will be underneath...
-- Edited on 8/31/11 4:55 PM --

TCLover
TCLover
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 12/5/10
Posts: 1
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Date: 5/15/12 6:12 AM

Hiya,

I am hoping to make this dress and will have to grade up, my high bust is 44" and actual bust 50"

I am very novice at dressmaking having just made a handful of simple dresses - could you explain what you mean by "rotate the fullness"?

Hope you don't mind me asking....

Kind regards,

Sarah :0)

------
Sarah :0)

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