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Sorry...pants again!
can anyone see what's the matter with these?
rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/6/11 0:12 AM

Hi this is Simplicity 4366. I have a full upper thigh and a flat seat. Before cutting this muslin I did a flat seat adjustment and pinned out a 2cm tuck down the back leg top to bottom. I was fairly happy with the back.

When I move in the muslin I am restricted in the front thigh area and I tested walking up stairs and the pants sort of pull from the back bottom cheek. I have left quite alot of space in the thigh area as they're still tight when I sit down but wonder if either the crotch length is too long or the side depth from crotch line to waist is too long. I pinched out the side length a bit but I ended up with the diagonal wrinkles that make you want to pull the sides down again. These pants seem altogether the wrong shape on the outseam, Could it be that the crotch to knee is too long?

Hopefully someone can juse "see it"

Thanks
Sue

If my pics don't post I'll send them again, I'm a beginner!
-- Edited on 9/6/11 1:45 AM
-- Edited on 9/6/11 2:17 AM --

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/6/11 0:16 AM

Trying again!
-- Edited on 9/6/11 0:17 AM --

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to rag doll


Date: 9/6/11 0:21 AM

9/6/11 1:31 AM --
-- Edited on 9/6/11 1:33 AM --
' target='_blank'>Back
-- Edited on 9/6/11 1:58 AM -- ' target='_blank'>front
-- Edited on 9/6/11 2:10 AM -- ' target='_blank'>Side
-- Edited on 9/6/11 2:11 AM --
-- Edited on 9/6/11 2:16 AM -- ' target='_blank'>extra fabric outseam
-- Edited on 9/6/11 2:23 AM --

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Sarsez
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Sarsez
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Date: 9/6/11 0:48 AM

Hi,

My rule of thumb is is pants look good standing still and then bind when you walk, is that the crotch extension is too short. You might need to give yourself some more room to cover the distance over the width of your thighs. Hope this makes sense.

Sar's

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24th Nov 12 to 28th Nov 13
Fabric and patterns rules for me.
Remember to shop your stash girl!
Remember to keep sewing to your wardrobe plan!

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sarsez


Date: 9/6/11 3:48 AM

Thanks Sars,

I'll unpick the inseam/crotch area and insert some fabric to extend the front crotch, if it works you never know I might even be able to wear this muslin.

Sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Vicsguy
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Vicsguy
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Date: 9/6/11 9:03 AM

It appears you are wearing the pants higher on your right hip than the left hip. Maybe a small adjustment allowing extra fabric to the right seam at the hip will help so the right side hangs off the hip.

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to rag doll


Date: 9/6/11 9:23 AM

I agree with the others about adding a bit to the crotch points. And continue on down the inner thigh a bit. I see some stress lines coming from the front inner thighs. I don't think you need all that extra outer thigh, so go ahead and taper that in a bit(the way you have it pinned.) I've had the same problem with jeans and found that if I release the inner thigh a little, it helps

Nancy K
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In reply to rag doll


Date: 9/6/11 1:29 PM

Your wrinkles are pointing to your inseam, so try letting out the front or adding a piece as someone else suggested. I agree that if you can't walk comfortably that you need more in the crotch hook.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

rag doll
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Date: 9/7/11 2:33 AM

OK I'm back again, thanks everyone for the support.

I added about an inch to the front crotch hook and tapered down on the inseam. This was actually too much as I now have a bit too much fabric in the front inseam. That's ok as I thought I can just take in any excess.

The problem is that the pants still bind when I walk. I pinched out about an inch in total horizontally at the front crotch tapering to the side seam and have completely freed the binding. This made me wonder if the front crotch is too long. When I looked at the rear view I now have horizontal wrinkles (where as the back looked pretty good before) and to me it looks like the now shorter front crotch is stealing fabric from the back to make it look as if I have a too short back crotch. I might add that was with the alteration in place so the front hook was longer that the original pattern.

I measured myself and compared my measurements to the original pattern.
my front crotch is 12.5". The pattern + waistband - SA = 12".

my back crotch length is 15.5". The pattern + waistband - SA = 14.5".

This means that the pattern is 26.5 inches all around and I am 28" all around = 1.5 inches more than the pattern.

Sorry this is long winded....

I must be short 1.5 inches I think, as the measurements are pretty accurate. Do I need to distribute this between the hooks of the pants? The only problem is that I will still have the binding at the front thigh even with the hook extended in the front and wonder if anyone can give me some advice as to how to nut this out?

thanks

Sue




------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/7/11 5:28 AM

I thought I would post a photo of the way the crotch shape is drafted just in case it helps, you can see my front hook extension taped to the original pattern on the right.


' target='_blank'>Pattern draft

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

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