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Message Board > Plus Size Sewing > alterations methods ( Moderated by JEF)

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alterations methods
anyone use nancy zieman's?
dukaqwn

dukaqwn  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/15/11 7:29 PM

Hi, I am much fluffier than I used to be, but I am beginning to accept that I just may not ever be 127lbs again. I have been encouraged by Nancy Zieman's Fitting Finesse book to alter regular size patterns, but by her sizing I should use a 16 for a base and alter from there. According to the pattern company sizing (most of them) I would be 22 or 24. There will be quite a bit of pivot and slide in a 16. Has anyone else used her method? And if so, how successful was your project?

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dukaqwn

dukaqwn  Friend of PR
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In reply to dukaqwn


Date: 9/15/11 7:31 PM

I should have also mentioned that I really don't like any of the patterns labeled "plus" except maybe the simplicity line. Hot patterns has some good patterns within my range, too.

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to dukaqwn


Date: 9/16/11 1:21 AM

A Home Ec teacher friend of mine taught this in her classes and she swears by it. I don't use it because I don't want to have to fiddle with paper, etc. (I'd much rather pin and slash). But I did use it, way back when I first bought the book, and used her method of buying the smaller pattern, then altering. I found it useful. I had to go up two sizes from the neckline.

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JeanM

JeanM
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Date: 9/16/11 7:28 AM

I have used pivot and slide. I do still use this techniaue for some adnustments, but find I use some of the methods from Palmer/Pletsch.

The challenge I found with pivot and slide was the recommendation to add the increase to the side seams, which adds the same amount to both front and back...and I eventually figured out that I need most of my addition just in the front...

It was a good place for starting to learn the adjusting process - for whatever reason it seemed more approachable.

Currently I trace on Swedish tracing paper, do a slash and spread fba, add some for hips using pivot and slide, pinfit the traced, adjusted pattern and then do a hopefully wearable muslin.

YMMV

Eta to finish post (grumble..touch screen..grumble)
-- Edited on 9/16/11 7:31 AM --

Andi
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In reply to dukaqwn


Date: 9/16/11 7:29 AM

I always had a horrible time getting things to fit b4 I used the NZ method. I am a 16 in her method but a 24 using high bust, and a 26 using full bust!

I don't use her pivot/slide technique exclusively, but I do start with the 16 at neck, shoulders, and armseye. Then I do a FBA and use the size 20 for the side seam at the bust, easing to a 22 or 24 at the hip, depending on how much ease I want. I am a plus hourglass, so I find this method helps maintain some of the style/design lines, rather than the pivot can take some of the style out of the side shaping.

I do also fit as I go, so I can make small adjustments to shoulder with and neckline width. HTH

dukaqwn

dukaqwn  Friend of PR
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In reply to Andi


Date: 9/16/11 7:55 AM

Your measurements sound like mine; I am also a plus hourglass. I have been reading the reviews of FFRP, too. I have Perfect Fit, and it never has appealed to me, but I'll give it another look through. Thanks for your reply.

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JTink
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In reply to dukaqwn


Date: 9/16/11 9:22 AM

I recently purchased NZ's Pattern Fitting with Confidence and was not terribly impressed with this pivot and slide thing. Looks like it takes a lot of paper. I was skeptical from the start, after reading how she takes the high bust measurement(front only?) Here are my measurements- Hight bust: 32 1/2, Bust: 36 1/2, Waist 29, Hip: 36 1/2. I'm also hight/short waisted and narrow shoulders. I do the slash and spread FBA. I like the way it increases length and width. Actually makes a little "cup" for the girls to sit in. According to her method, I would be wearing a 14/16! I'm a 10 in the neck and shoulders, 12 from bust to hip(with a little extra in the waist) and 8/10 in the legs(5'2 tall). I would be swimming in a 14/16. I guess her method works for some, but I'm partial to the Palmer/Pletsch methods. What is your High bust measurement? (Not just doing the front like Nancy Z recommends, but the total from back to front?) You may actually be inbetween what the pattern company and Nancy Z suggests.

sewme47
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Date: 9/16/11 10:05 AM

Hi, Dukaqwn, finding the fitting solutions that work for you will take a little bit of experimentation. I personally only use pivot and slide for my daughters who only need minor pattern alterations...I just couldn't get this method to work for me, especially with pants.

I now use FFRP as well as Pants for Real People. The Palmer/Pletsch method advocates tissue fitting, which I think turns some people off, but I have found that doing a quick tissue fit, followed by a real muslin gives me the best results. Even if you use pivot and slide, you'll still need to tweak the fit by "reading" the wrinkles and drag lines, and this where FFRP is really helpful. I highly highly recommend getting the Palmer/Pletsch dvd's that show fitting in action.

But whatever you choose, don't over-think it before you even get started! Get some muslin or pull out your ugly fabrics from your stash and do some experimenting. Try altering a basic blouse pattern with both methods and see which works best for you. And remember that there is no perfect system out there--achieving good fit is definitely a process.

Getting a good fit can be so frustrating, but once you learn what basic alterations you need and develop a few TNT patterns, you'll be well on your way!

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to sewme47


Date: 9/16/11 10:11 AM

Sewme47, beautifully said

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/16/11 4:14 PM

Pivot and slide does not allow for cup size. Your pattern will still be a B cup. I do the FFRP full bust adjustment to a D cup, 3/4" and then pivot for the rest of the FBA needed. I do the broad back and round back from the FFRP book. I do not use the FBA for the full amount because it creates such a huge dart which causes diagonal wrinkles across the tummy.

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