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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Dowager Hump adjustment - stuck!

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Dowager Hump adjustment - stuck!
link to YouTube video depicts problem
Jane in MS

Jane in MS
Intermediate
Member since 7/2/06
Posts: 91
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Date: 9/16/11 1:51 PM

Hello All!
I'm making Vogue 2934, a 1950 design short capelet jacket, as a bedjacket for Mom who turns 84 next week! Sadly she has a very pronounced rounded back, so I found threads' directions to alter the pattern . Here are the directions: Alteration Instructions

After I drew my horizontal line across the back (used the lining piece for trial and error), and then lines B and C, I did the slashs, and created a dart at the neck . . .then got stuck. The video is very self explanatory. Please view here.

I know it must be a very simple solution but I just can't wrap my head around this! Any advice greatly appreciated from me and Mom!

Jane
-- Edited on 9/16/11 1:56 PM --

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www.janesemptywardrobe.blogspot.com

mastdenman
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mastdenman  Friend of PR
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 1/12/04
Posts: 6126
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Date: 9/16/11 2:59 PM

Your mother will need all the fabric that is in the shoulder/upper arm seam.

I would create a test garment first. Try drawing the line all the way across the pattern piece. Then when you move the pieces out to create the dart, the tissue will not fold over on itself. The reason for the muslin is to see how the extra fabric in the sleeve portion will affect the rest of the jacket.

Normally this would not be a problem because the sleeve would be a separate piece. You could also create a new pattern piece by separating the sleeve portion from the back portion. Then you wouldn't have the problem with the extra fabric in the sleeve. This may take a little trial and error.
-- Edited on 9/16/11 3:01 PM --

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Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Colorado USA
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 633
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Date: 9/16/11 4:52 PM

How about cutting off the sleeve at the 8" mark, do your adjustment and tape back on the sleeve. This is how we do the adjustment in FFRP for a full bust adjustments when we have an attached sleeve. Maybe FFRP shows the adjustment for the rounded back with attached sleeves. I don't have a copy available to look it up since I'm at work.
-- Edited on 9/16/11 4:58 PM --

Jane in MS

Jane in MS
Intermediate
Member since 7/2/06
Posts: 91
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Date: 9/17/11 10:02 AM

I dug out my (forgotten) copy of FFRP and on Page 125 it shows where I can add a center back seam allowance, then slash to the sleeve and spread. This looks like my best option. Thanks for helping to sort this out!

I'll post pics here and on my blog when its done, maybe with the birthday girl modeling!

Jane

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www.janesemptywardrobe.blogspot.com

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