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Hemming Knits
Plumm Intermediate MI USA Member since 2006 Posts: 28	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 9/28/11 2:15 PM Does anyone have a good suggestion on hemming t-shirt knits? I like to use a double needle hem for the stretch factor, but no matter the mm length between the needles, I get a tunneled effect. If using a single needle, I sometimes get a wavy hem. I don't want to use a fusible like Steam-s-Seam because then I lose the stretch. I'd love to learn your successful techniques. Thanks! ------ Plumm
JKimes   Expert/Couture TX USA Member since 2005 Posts: 249	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 9/28/11 3:25 PM Hi Plumm, I've had good luck with a three-step zigzag if you like that look. I've also used the overlock stitch which looks like a flatlock. I have an overlock/coverstitch machine so I haven't tried this, but you might put water soluble stabilizer on top when doing the twin needle to reduce tunneling and /or try a narrower twin needle (I get tunneling on lighter fabrics with the wide coverstitch as well). Good luck! Juliette ------ Juliette near Austin, TX Bernina 830LE Babylock Evolution ElnaPro 905DCX Elna 6004 Heirloom
mastdenman   Intermediate CA USA Member since 2004 Posts: 5513	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 9/28/11 3:52 PM The triple stretch stitch on your regular sewing machine works well. If the knit is too stretchy try using a water soluble stablizer with it. ------ Marilyn January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.
gramma b Advanced USA Member since 2008 Posts: 1418	Login to reply to this post In reply to mastdenman Like this post Date: 9/28/11 4:28 PM Does anyone use the clear elastic inside all hems/necklines for stability? Elsewhere here they mentioned a Japanese straight and bias tape for knits that can only be ordered online. I was thinking of experimenting with our version of narrow stabilizing tape, maybe without heat-setting them it might work? Anyone have success with cutting their own strips?
CM_Sews Intermediate CA USA Member since 2004 Posts: 1178	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 9/28/11 4:30 PM A couple of things to try with the double needles: Loosen the bobbin tension. Put a stabilizer under the hem as you stitch to keep the stitch from tunneling. Tear away stabilizer or perhaps wash away stabilizer? CMC
kkkkaty   Intermediate UT USA Member since 2005 Posts: 1903	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 9/28/11 4:38 PM I wore a knit shell yesterday that I skipped the hemming on entirely, and I like it like that... less bulk, and it looks fine. ------ Viking Lily 545 Viking Scandinavia 400 Bernina Activa 210 Brother 1034d
skae   Advanced MN USA Member since 2007 Posts: 2255	Login to reply to this post In reply to Plumm Like this post Date: 9/28/11 7:44 PM you could use wooly nylon thread in the bobbin and loosen the thread tension on the bobbin a bit. this work well for me. ------ ý1 Corinthians 13:4-7 "Love is patient, love is kind. It does not envy, it does not boast, it is not proud. It does not dishonor others, it is not self-seeking, it is not easily angered, it keeps no record of wrongs. Love does not delight in evil but rejoices with the truth. It always protects, always trusts, always hopes, always perseveres.
Tom P   Intermediate NY USA Member since 2007 Posts: 887	Login to reply to this post In reply to skae Like this post Date: 9/28/11 11:25 PM What I did on the last couple of shirts was to use a double needle, but instead of messing with the bobbin tension, I just turned the bobbin over the 'wrong' way. That reduces the bobbin tension, which is really what you need. I liked the way it came out.
Judy Kski   Intermediate FL USA Member since 2008 Posts: 554	Login to reply to this post In reply to Plumm Like this post Date: 9/28/11 11:40 PM Use 1/4" Wash Away Wonder Tape as your stabilizer. It will serve two purposes: (1) stabilize your hemming area to help prevent tunneling and (2) hold your hem in place so you won't have to pin it. Don't use a twin needle bigger than 3.0 mm. A 2.0 mm is ideal. Loosen the tension in your bobbin and use wooly nylon (wound on the bobbin by hand) to give you the built in stretch you need in a hem. I have to admit, I no longer use a twin needle because no matter what, the hems in my interlock knit shirts always eventually popped. I now own a coverstitch machine and do all my knit hems with it. You have all the stretch in the world built in to a coverstitched hem. I'm a much happier knit sewer making my garments with a combination of an overlocker and coverstitch machine. ------ Judy
tucci4me Intermediate CA USA Member since 2007 Posts: 128	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 9/29/11 0:44 AM This article by Marcy Tilton in Threads magazine is now the only way I hem knits. Find it at the bottom of the article under "Hem a soft, crushable knit " here. Hope it works as well for you. Ann in Calif.

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