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Hemming Knits
Plumm
Plumm
Intermediate
Michigan USA
Member since 6/11/06
Posts: 51
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Date: 9/28/11 2:15 PM

Does anyone have a good suggestion on hemming t-shirt knits? I like to use a double needle hem for the stretch factor, but no matter the mm length between the needles, I get a tunneled effect. If using a single needle, I sometimes get a wavy hem. I don't want to use a fusible like Steam-s-Seam because then I lose the stretch. I'd love to learn your successful techniques. Thanks!

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Plumm

JKimes
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JKimes  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/28/11 3:25 PM

Hi Plumm,

I've had good luck with a three-step zigzag if you like that look. I've also used the overlock stitch which looks like a flatlock.
I have an overlock/coverstitch machine so I haven't tried this, but you might put water soluble stabilizer on top when doing the twin needle to reduce tunneling and /or try a narrower twin needle (I get tunneling on lighter fabrics with the wide coverstitch as well).

Good luck!
Juliette

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Juliette near Austin, TX
Bernina 830LE
Bernina 350PE
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mastdenman
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mastdenman  Friend of PR
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 1/12/04
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Date: 9/28/11 3:52 PM

The triple stretch stitch on your regular sewing machine works well. If the knit is too stretchy try using a water soluble stablizer with it.

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Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

gramma b
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gramma b
USA
Member since 7/25/08
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In reply to mastdenman


Date: 9/28/11 4:28 PM

Does anyone use the clear elastic inside all hems/necklines for stability?

Elsewhere here they mentioned a Japanese straight and bias tape for knits that can only be ordered online. I was thinking of experimenting with our version of narrow stabilizing tape, maybe without heat-setting them it might work? Anyone have success with cutting their own strips?

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 9/18/04
Posts: 1800
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Date: 9/28/11 4:30 PM

A couple of things to try with the double needles:

Loosen the bobbin tension.

Put a stabilizer under the hem as you stitch to keep the stitch from tunneling. Tear away stabilizer or perhaps wash away stabilizer?

CMC

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
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Utah USA
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Date: 9/28/11 4:38 PM

I wore a knit shell yesterday that I skipped the hemming on entirely, and I like it like that... less bulk, and it looks fine.

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Viking Lily 545
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Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

skae
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skae  Friend of PR
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In reply to Plumm


Date: 9/28/11 7:44 PM

you could use wooly nylon thread in the bobbin and loosen the thread tension on the bobbin a bit. this work well for me.

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Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

Tom P
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Tom P  Friend of PR
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New York USA
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In reply to skae


Date: 9/28/11 11:25 PM

What I did on the last couple of shirts was to use a double needle, but instead of messing with the bobbin tension, I just turned the bobbin over the 'wrong' way. That reduces the bobbin tension, which is really what you need. I liked the way it came out.

Judy Kski
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Judy Kski  Friend of PR
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Florida USA
Member since 10/26/08
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In reply to Plumm


Date: 9/28/11 11:40 PM

Use 1/4" Wash Away Wonder Tape as your stabilizer. It will serve two purposes: (1) stabilize your hemming area to help prevent tunneling and (2) hold your hem in place so you won't have to pin it.

Don't use a twin needle bigger than 3.0 mm. A 2.0 mm is ideal.

Loosen the tension in your bobbin and use wooly nylon (wound on the bobbin by hand) to give you the built in stretch you need in a hem.

I have to admit, I no longer use a twin needle because no matter what, the hems in my interlock knit shirts always eventually popped. I now own a coverstitch machine and do all my knit hems with it. You have all the stretch in the world built in to a coverstitched hem. I'm a much happier knit sewer making my garments with a combination of an overlocker and coverstitch machine.

------
Judy

tucci4me
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tucci4me
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 5/22/07
Posts: 150
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Date: 9/29/11 0:44 AM

This article by Marcy Tilton in Threads magazine is now the only way I hem knits. Find it at the bottom of the article under "Hem a soft, crushable knit " here. Hope it works as well for you.

Ann in Calif.

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