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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pants fitting help needed with bagginess under the derriere ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pants fitting help needed with bagginess under the derriere
froggiegirl
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froggiegirl  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/22/11 1:17 PM

Hello all,
I was hoping those of you with more fitting experiance might be able to help me out. My pants fitting has gotten much better since purchasing "Pants for Real People" but I still have one problem area. In every pair of pants I sew (or purchase) there is excess fabric right under the derrier and bagginess down to the knee on my upper thigh.

Palmer/Pletsch says to decrease the crotch length but I need that extra length for my low full backside. The other example of pulling up at CB and making a vertical fold also makes the pants too tight across the derrier.

Here are some pictures of the latest pair of pants I'm sewing.
Pants fitting set

This is Simplicity 2700- Amazing Fit boot leg pants in a medium weight stretch denim. I've shown them inside out since the wrong side of the denim is much lighter and easier to see.
Here's a list of mods already done to these pants
1. Back crotch lowered 1".
2. Back CB also slashed spread 2 inches bigger to get the CB to my waist.
3. Back crotch also extented 1/2

-- Edited on 10/22/11 1:19 PM --

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Julia C
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In reply to froggiegirl


Date: 10/22/11 2:03 PM

I think this needs the alteration Peggy Sager's showed on her jeans video. You need to fold out the extra fabric at the very top of the thighs all the way around to shorten that area which gets rid of the folds.

SVN
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SVN
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In reply to Julia C


Date: 10/22/11 2:41 PM

This is an interesting suggestion, Julia, but in the pictures it looks like there is no bagginess in the front thigh. Shortening there may make the area too tight to move. Or have I missed something?

Annie- oh
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Annie- oh
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Date: 10/22/11 2:44 PM

Ah ha, back to Peggy Sader's site, Julia, and I love your suggstions. But there's not a jeans video listed. Could it be Pants Drafting and Fitting?

thanx -

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I try all things. I achieve what I can. "Moby Dick"

We stand here confronted by insurmountable opportinities. Pogo

Julia C
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In reply to Annie- oh


Date: 10/22/11 3:13 PM

It was on the "Jeans made easy" video on facebook. I can't link it. I had to click on the sheath dress video, forward to end, then the prefious fb videos show up to scroll through.

Kathy in NM
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Kathy in NM  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/22/11 3:41 PM

A little while back I did some fitting of pants and should have taken lots of pictures as I was very happy with the results. Alas, no photos. My fit problems look a lot like yours. Here are a few things to try.

If you pull up on the center front do the back wrinkles get worse? And, if you push down on the center front do they go away some? Note how the pants lay right against your front thigh? Try adding some width to the front pant leg. I split the pattern from the top to the hem (but leaving attached at the seam line) and across the pattern at thigh level (below the crotch, again, not through the seam allowance). You can then spread the pattern at the fullest part of your thigh to gain some width (try starting with 1/4 to 1/2" - it may not take much). What this does is spread the pant front pattern at the thigh, but overlaps the horizontal split. If you move the pattern but keep it flat I think you will see what I mean. I taped down the horizontal overlap. Then, measure the overlap amount and add that back to the top of the pattern so you don't loose the length.

2nd, notice the U shaped fold sitting on the back of your calf? The pants are "catching" on your calf and not hanging straight to the floor. I had the same problem. This was fixed by adding 1/4" to each side of the back (only the back, the front doesn't need space) starting 2" above where my knee was on the pattern and extending down to the hem. It is amazing what just this adjustment does to the fit. You might try it first as you can just un-do the bottom of the pant and re-sew with added width on the back, but not front, to see how it looks. Then tackle the front pant pattern.

Ok, I know this might not make sense in words - I always like pictures. If it doesn't make sense, let me know. I can take photos of the pattern adjustments. I wish I had done before and after fitting photos though.

I had tried so many funky adjustments in the past. But, reading Kenneth Kings info about needing space, and looking at where things really hit my body, I did my own thing (some of which are in many books but seemed to be minor adjustments). I had just kept messing with the crotch and the inner leg seam at the thigh. I scooped the crotch, etc, etc, etc. When really, I just need the pants not to drag on my calves, and to add a bit of space in the front thigh.

I hope this helps! Looking forward to seeing your next muslin.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to Annie- oh


Date: 10/22/11 6:41 PM

It's listed under her website videos and is available to stream free. Her pants fitting videos are great.

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froggiegirl
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Date: 10/22/11 7:50 PM

Julia C - Thank you, I was not aware of Peggy Sager's site so I had a good time checking out all the patterns and fabric. I was able to find the video, now that my 1 year old is in bed maybe it can be watched.

Kathy in NM - Thanks for your detailed description of alternations. Yes they do make sense to me! Probably because I've been looking at a lot of fitting links on the net. Would have never thought to do a alteration on the front thigh so that's great. Should have realized my large calves were messing something up but didn't.

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Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 10/22/11 8:21 PM

edited :)
-- Edited on 11/30/11 9:10 PM --

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becksnyc
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Date: 10/22/11 9:33 PM

Froggiegirl,
First of all, LOVE your Flickr pics--awesome knitting, great bob and love your color choices!
The front of your pants looks fine. I don't see any tightness on the front thighs. I also don't think the fabric is catching on your calves. I think the problem originates higher up in both the slant of your pelvis and the fullness of your seat.
Please, look at image 6562.
1. Well-fitting pants fall straight down from the fullest part of the seat. Yours cup under the back, which indicates you need more back crotch width. Release the pants inseam from the back only at least an 1"-1 1/2" (or add a triangular gusset), gradually down toward knee about 8-10."
2. Your natural waist (not the waistband, which is straight) appears higher in the back than front. Confirm this by putting a belt or elastic around your waist. From the side, does the belt slant higher back than front? Also, look at the how the grainline slants down, rather than parallel to the floor. Imagine how shifting the back only upwards will eliminate those pesky wrinkles (and give you a major wedgie, but that can be fixed :-). This means you need more LENGTH to your back crotch seam. (If you make this pattern again, slash & spread the crotch seam to, but not through, the side seam at the hip line.) Unfortunately, unless you have excess tucked into the waistband, this alteration will have to wait for the next pair.
3. See how the back curve is poking in between your cheeks? That means you need to scoop the back crotch curve out & down. Cautiously and only 1/4" at time! There's no going back on this alteration. When you like the fit, make sure to remove the excess from the curve or it'll poke ya!
I have many years experience fitting RTW in a busy Alterations shop. I also teach pants fitting. Please feel free to contact me for any advice.
Becksnyc

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Becks

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