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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Bikini top/Bra/Swimsuit help: KS2332 ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Bikini top/Bra/Swimsuit help: KS2332
I need help figuring out an instruction - calling anyone who has sewn this pattern!
novicesewist
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novicesewist  Friend of PR
Beginner
CA USA
Member since 2/11/08
Posts: 103
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Date: 11/7/11 7:49 PM

Hi,
I am trying to assemble KS2332, and am having trouble figuring out the instructions, specifically step 7, after you sew the casing to the lining side of the cup.

Here's a picture of the pattern pieces:


And here are the instructions. page 1
page 2

Pattern Piece 5 is the Underwire binding, and is cut on the bias from woven fabric. It is not the same fabric as the bikini fabric, and it seems it should not be folded to where it would show. The photo of the finished product and the line drawings do not look as if anything is folded to the outside of the bottom of the bra.

Step 7 (the confusing one) says: Fold underwire casing (pattern piece 5) in half, wrong sides together, and press. Pin casing to lining side of cup with all raw edges together and end of casing at top edge of front inset, see illustration. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
click here

Ok - I get it so far. Even the pictures seem clear to this point. My trouble is with the next part - click here

Fold casing over seam allowance and pin, covering stitches. Stitch close to edge.

The illustration looks as if the casing is folded to the outside of the cup and stitched down. This seems wrong to me. Past this point in the instructions, they never show you an illustration of the outside of the top again.
Does anyone know what to do here? I have looked in Kwik sew swim and actionwear, sew splashy, how to make beautiful lingerie, and singer's lingerie books, but have not found anything like it. I even emailed kwik sew, but haven't heard back. I'm hoping one of the bramaking or swimwear experts can help me figure this out.
Thanks so much,
judy
eta: I posted this message and the links weren't working properly. I tried to fix them, but if not - here is a link to my pr photo album, and you should be able to click on the pictures there - http://www.friendsofpr.com/novic/album.html

-- Edited on 11/7/11 8:15 PM --

happytobehere
happytobehere
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Member since 7/31/10
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Date: 11/7/11 8:08 PM

I don't know how to explain this any better but I did it exactly as written and the results were perfect.
You sew the folded casing to the seam allowance on the inside and that's where it stays.

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 4/1/08
Posts: 5552
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In reply to novicesewist
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 11/7/11 9:05 PM

Here's a picture of a rtw top that might help.
example



-- Edited on 11/8/11 12:29 PM --

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

novicesewist
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novicesewist  Friend of PR
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CA USA
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In reply to a7yrstitch


Date: 11/7/11 9:55 PM

Your link to the tommy bahama top is what I envisioned it looking like, except the piece that folds over is not matching swim fabric. It is woven fabric cut on the bias. I do have enough of the original swimsuit fabric, but I'm not sure it will hold the underwires. I figured they recommended woven fabric here so the wires would not poke out or stretch the casing out of shape. Happytobehere said the way it is described worked for her, but I have my doubts. I guess I'll try it with the basting stitch (although those are still hard to pick out of nylon/lycra!) Thanks for your help
(and yes, I have a dive vacation quickly approaching - November 19th)
judy

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to novicesewist


Date: 11/7/11 11:16 PM

After seeing Julia C's input, I'm a bit confused.

Let's talk about the underwire binding, piece 5, in your first picture showing the layout of the pattern pieces. Where is that piece?

If you lose me, it's the storm.

-- Edited on 11/8/11 2:38 PM --

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
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In reply to novicesewist


Date: 11/8/11 9:10 AM

You are sewing the casing to the inside of the bra cup,enclosing the seam for the underwire. This stitching will show on the outside of the cup. Further in the instructions you will insert the underwire & close CF. The side of the underwire casing will probably be closed when you apply elastic to the sides. You can buy Beverly Johnson's BraMakers Manual as a CD or in book form which I strongly advise.
Check out clothingengineers bra reviews too for helpful hints.

biochemistress

biochemistress  Friend of PR
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VA USA
Member since 11/8/05
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Date: 11/27/11 6:28 PM

Wow, tricky one! Do you see in the illustration for step 7 how the side strap is folded? That would indicate to me that you do indeed turn the binding to the outside of the bra, but when you insert the wire and turn everything back to put it on, that casing will flip back to the inside edge, and it will look like lycra all the way down to your skin. The finished binding looks like it's 1/4 of the width of the original pattern piece. So do what it says, then turn everything back like you're gonna put it on, THEN insert the underwire, and it should be fine!

The pic of 7Cont shows that being done to the top cup, and it hasn't been done yet to the bottom cup.

SunFlowers

SunFlowers
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USA
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Date: 6/12/13 9:37 AM

I would love to see the results of this top. I like the pattern a lot!

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