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Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Satin Seam finish ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Satin Seam finish
sewmom41
sewmom41
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Date: 11/11/11 2:45 PM

Any thoughts on this method of finishing the raw edge of a satin seam? Use narrow strip of tulle and encase the raw edge to keep it from ravelling.

Sharon1952
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In reply to sewmom41


Date: 11/11/11 8:07 PM

To me it would depend upon where the seam is, if there is a lining between it and the skin. It would also depend upon if this was a really nice, long term garment or a one time wonder. If you possibly expect years of wear, I'd do some form of a Hong Kong finish.

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Sewing: A creative mess is better than tidy idleness. ~Author Unknown

dmariecouture
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Date: 11/11/11 8:35 PM

On wedding gowns that are fully lined, I personally prefer just using pinking shears to keep the edges from unravelling rather than serging the edges of the fashion fabric because it's less bulky and doesn't show through. However, on unlined garments I use seams great to finish the eges, (basically a hong kong finish) which works really well for bias cut fabrics. Alternatively, french seams are really nice, though they're a pain if the seam is curved and do not work well for bias cut.

sewmom41
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Date: 11/14/11 7:42 PM

Thanks for the help. I think I’ll go with a fully lined dress and just pink the seams. Now for the next issue I need advice on. I’ve added a satin train to the A line pattern I’m using (length between chapel and cathedral). Would like to have a tulle overlay. My thoughts are to make the first layer of tulle the same size as the satin. The second (or outer layer) to have approximately 1.5 times the fullness at the waist and taper down to match the satin at the hemline. What can I do to keep the tulle from gliding all over the place away from the satin train? Also is it possible to bustle a fully lined dress/train with a tulle overlay? Lace appliqués can be added on the train to provide pick up points.
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!!

dmariecouture
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Date: 11/15/11 5:23 PM

If it were me I would make the satin underlayer end at the floor and have just the tulle extend or at least make the tulle layer a good foot longer than the satin, otherwise it's inevitable that the tulle will float away leaving the satin exposed. I've never tried bustling a tulle train, but there was a great thread about that earlier.

sewmom41
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Subject: strapless bodice seams Date: 11/21/11 3:42 PM

I appreciate all the suggestions I have received. Have a concern about the seams. A strapless bodice really has to fit tight. Has anyone ever had the seams to a strapless bodice pull apart on the wedding day? The bodice will be of satin (fashion fabric) with an underlining of batiste. Then will be a bodice of rather heavy taffeta with 6-8 strips of boning. Then a lining. A lace will overlay the bodice but only attached at the waist. Also any adice on which is the better way to go.. double bodice for boning so as to add channels for boning or sew in the boning?

sewmom41
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Date: 11/23/11 3:26 PM

As a little added support for the bodice I want to attach covered 3/4 inch elastic to the side seams of the bodice. Should they be attached to all the layers ... Through the fashion fabric, underlining,corset layer and the lining??

auntie bellums
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Date: 11/27/11 1:22 AM

I french seam all of my gowns. The are fairly flat, and they just look "nice". Plus each seam is then stitched twice. Or, I serge the edeges of the pieces before I put them together and then sew them with the regualr sewing machine. The problem with that method is that you can see the serge stitching when you iron the seams open.

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It's not your mamma's sewing.....It's your great grandmamma's

sewmom41
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Date: 1/30/12 11:46 AM

I'm working on the train for the wedding dress. I now have another concern. I cut the back and side back panels very exactly and sewed them together very carefully so not to stretch anything. Pressed the seam (no steam)together and then apart using a strip of paper under the seam allowance to avoid a mark. The seam itself looks perfect and I don't see any puckers. The problem I have is a bit of a wavey look between the panels. Is this sort of normal for satin or did I do something wrong? The train measures 7 feet from the waist to the end. Thanks again .. all your suggestions have been appreciated.

Elona
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In reply to sewmom41


Date: 1/30/12 5:19 PM

Just a thought: Sometimes the seams wind up being the least stretchy part of a garment; if there's any 'give' to the fabric, or if it's bias-cut, the fabric stretches and 'bags' a little between the seamlines.

Often, when I'm sewing with fine silk, I use a very narrow zigzag, a not-quite-straight-stitch to sew the seams, so as to let everything stay a bit more fluid.

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