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Coat pleat
pleat in back not hanging right
halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/14/11 2:59 PM

I'm just finishing up sewing Butterick 5145
I used Bemberg lining and some cotton flannel for the interlining. With all those layers, the back pleat doesn't want to lay right. Any suggestions? It tends to want to stick out and you have to fiddle with it to get the pleats to hang properly. Any suggestions?

valkyrie01
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valkyrie01
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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 11/18/11 6:02 AM

Hi there,

I actually made this coat about 3-4 years ago (the C view) and I do remember the back pleat was a pain because it is so long and the coat not only is long but it is actually a bit longer in the back than the front. Nice look but a bit stubborn when it comes to tailoring.

I pressed all the fabric together as one as much as I could then whip stitched shut the pleat on the outside and on the sides inside (so it was like one flat piece of fabric). That made it easier to manipulate while attaching bottom to top.

For the interlining I used organza, which is less bulky. If you are not too far along I would suggest using that instead if you can. Too many layers push out the pleat (besides being bulky in the seam). If you cannot replace the cotton flannel then so be it. At least try shutting the pleat up with whip stitches and see how that goes.

I hope that helps!

halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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In reply to valkyrie01


Date: 11/18/11 7:41 AM

Thanks for your help! I used more of a suiting fabric. It's not warm and heavy like wool so I interlined it with flannel and then used some Bemberg lining . I think because of the coat fabric being fairly thin and then with all the other layers is causing me to have to fiddle with the pleat each time I put it on. I pressed the heck out of it but I will try what you said. All that is left is hemming it, button and buttonholes and some topstitching and I think it turned out really well. Review coming soon!

valkyrie01
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valkyrie01
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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 11/18/11 9:16 AM

My pleasure! I love teaching and helping! I also love this coat to bits and am thrilled to see someone making it! For me it was an important coat because it represented my transition from intermediate to advanced status. As an intermediate sewer I just kind of kept everything in my head for a while that was related to advanced or haute couture sewing (while working up the nerve to try it myself!); anything that I read or that someone taught me. Then I thought that a winter coat (and coats are my favourite thing to sew!) would be the perfect way to bring it all together. I have been looking at this coat more closely since talking to you this morning and it is worn so much that I found a hole in the lining LOL! I will replace the lining when I am back home (I am out of town) with a heavy black lining from my stash. It was interesting though to peek-a-boo through that hole and see all my old work from a few years ago. I used a heavy wool with a raised texture on it, horsehair interfacing on the upper body, organza interlining on the bottom, twill tape at the waist and a lightweight chain in the hem (something that the house of Chanel does in their coats and jackets). In retrospect, as luxurious as the dupioni silk is for the lining I should have used something heavier. Also I made welt buttonholes and they are wearing a bit so I will do something about them. There is also a leather shammy in the upper back (a technique I heard about from my mother who was told about it by her tailor to whom she brought her coat in for repairs). It was a very expensive and busy affair to make it but I am glad I did. I love the lines of the coat; its shape is pretty like a dress with the lines of a suit jacket and a collar that I think (for view C) is a bit vintage 1950- 60-ish (reminds me of Jackie Kennedy and her jacket collars) feel without being dated. It stitches up nicely and for advanced sewer is easy to make more challenging.

I was also thinking more about your issue. I think maybe you may want to also try to work with the interlining... aside fom adding shape and warmth a lot of construction can happen using it that aids the coat and that you won't risk seeing on the outside.Before you put the lining in, go from the inside with a needle and thread and see if you can tack inside the pleat on the interlining, tacking the pleat to itself, if you understand what I mean. It should be hidden work and I think it will help. I would do it on both sides of the pleat inside. Maybe for an inch to 3 inches, depending on if you made the short or the long coat. You will have to play a bit. As well you may want to make a tab closure typical of the sort that you see in trench coats, with a tab coming out of the right side and a small button (not the same size as those on the front) on the left, placing it where you think best.

Well, good luck. It sounds like it is going to be great! I hope you review it, with a nice picture. :-D

Jennifer

Candi Cook
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Date: 11/18/11 12:34 PM

Another possibility is that the back waist length is too long. If there is too much length the pleat will spread rather than lay closed. You can test this by just lifting or taking a pinch at the horizontal seam in the back if the pleat hangs better then you may want to alter the pattern for next time. You can also take in the horizontal seam in back if the coat isn't too far along.

valkyrie01
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valkyrie01
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Quebec CANADA
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In reply to Candi Cook


Date: 11/18/11 12:50 PM

Quote: Candi Cook
Another possibility is that the back waist length is too long. If there is too much length the pleat will spread rather than lay closed. You can test this by just lifting or taking a pinch at the horizontal seam in the back if the pleat hangs better then you may want to alter the pattern for next time. You can also take in the horizontal seam in back if the coat isn't too far along.

This is another thing that you could check for but as this is an empire waist coat I don't think that it is an issue. I am an apple figure who made this coat, and the pleat came out ok. That is to say that I did not have to adjust for the horizontal seam. I think it is probably just a trick of manipulating a lot of fabric. Even on the line art the pleat spreads a bit, due to circumference of the hem. The tricky bit is having it hang evenly and straight for its whole length, that is why I whip stitched the thing closed until just before hemming it.
halleyscomet
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Date: 11/19/11 1:59 PM

Thanks for everyone's input. Just a thought to reduce the bulk from the flannel only and since it is in between layers no one will see it, what if I actually cut the folds? I'm thinking this will reduce the bulk and have it lay flatter.

I don't think the back bodice is too long. The coat actually fits me quite well. BTW, it will come several inches above the knee. I was going to have it hip length, but after putting a contracting collar on it and I think it is too dressy for that length.

M.S.
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Date: 11/19/11 2:44 PM

Sometimes it helps to topstitch the folds of the pleat.......the folds that do NOT show from the outside. Leave the visible folds of the pleat alone. Does this make sense the way I explained it?

halleyscomet
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In reply to M.S.


Date: 11/23/11 5:55 PM

Update on my coat pleat. The back pleat seems to flare open at the bottom. I basted the folds of the pleats on the inside where they are not seen and my DH actually said it made it worse. I've attached a picture
I've pressed the heck out of it too. Is it maybe supposed to open up some?

solosmocker
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Date: 11/26/11 3:39 PM

I agree with topstitching the edges of the pleat ON THE INSIDE of the garment. I do this for all pleats I make and it keeps them crisp and laying correctly. Also, IIWM, I would remove the flannel from the pleat area. That will improve the crispness.

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