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Forum > Fitting Woes > Fitting back of pants ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting back of pants
I think this one will be easy
MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/25/11 8:38 AM

I'm making a muslin of V8751

I used a tutorial to narrow the giant legs, combined/morphed it with a pair of RTW that I really like to match crotch curve and re-drew the grain. I ended up with this...



I'm looking at Jan Minott's book and wondering if I'm making the right diagnosis according to the wrinkles. Is the back fabric looking like I need to make an adjustment for legs, knees, thighs being close together? Something like this?

I know I tilt my hip forward and that is causing all of the other wrinkles. I haven't been very successful eliminating these in the past.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I would love to get this muslin honed and get the real pants completed over this long weekend.
PS. Can you believe how wide one's hips can look while wearing the seams on the outside? Va-Voom!
-- Edited on 11/25/11 8:40 AM --
-- Edited on 11/25/11 10:08 AM --

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

SVN
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 11/25/11 10:07 AM

The pant legs look twisted to me! I don't even know if that makes sense, let alone how to fix it, but there appears (to me) to be a twist from hip to knee that is throwing the leg off grain and causing the wrinkling around the butt. Possible?

MNBarb
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Date: 11/25/11 11:10 AM

OK. I need to move forward. I think this is just the same problem I've had in the past looking a bit different in this style of pants. I'm going to try this.

[QUOTE]If you cut the pattern right at the hip line which is that horizontal level where the CB seam starts to become the crotch curve, and spread the side seam edge open maybe 1/2 inch, you will get more length in the side to go over your curved side. The extra length in the front side seam just gets added to the top. Pants seams need to be somewhat like our bodies in order to hang politely to the hem.[QUOTE]

This blog post also helped.
Pants fitting muslin
-- Edited on 11/25/11 11:14 AM --

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Candi Cook
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Date: 11/25/11 12:07 PM

you can test the minott adjustment by releasing the inseam from an inch below crotch point to hem and then pin a new seam releasing about 1/4" to 3/8" at knee level blending up toward crotch point and releasing the same amount as knee adjustment down to hem. Then take in the same amount at knee on outseam from knee down and blending up to thigh. I would do it on just one leg to test just using pins to see if it helps. It will probably help but you are going to have to scoop out the crotch area to get the smooth fit in back. You may need to lower the crotch depth a half inch or so . Peggy sagers shows a simple way of pinning out the excess in her jeans fitting video, which is another way of accomplishing the same thing, unfotunately you can only do her adjustment on a muslin. If you look at your photo of your side view, the back should hang as smooth as the front does.

sewsally
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Date: 11/25/11 12:11 PM

Did you trim the crotch curve?

Candi Cook
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Date: 11/25/11 12:13 PM

Barb, by spreading the side seam that is another way of adding crotch depth ( side seam length minus inseam length = crotch depth) if after you do that adjustment you still have slanted pull lines pointing to inner knee area you can try the minott adjustment.

MNBarb
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Date: 11/25/11 12:22 PM

I'm starting over with a new muslin. I've butchered the original to the point of no return. The problem doesn't seem to be caused by pulling from the inside of leg. I'm going to work on shortening back crotch length and back inseam lenght without changing length of the side seam. Is this possible?

These back-of-clothing issues must all be related to by "C" stance.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Candi Cook
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Date: 11/25/11 1:16 PM

I think a good way to lower the crotch is to cut over from center back at hip level 2or 3 inches toward side seam then cut down ( parallel to grain) to about two inches below crotch point and then cut over to inseam This is shown in clown butt tip in pattern reviews fit tips. Slide down the piece after you cut it out about a half an inch to start blend thigh at in seam and above hip line. You may have to remove the same amount at the top of pant at cb waist. You need more length below hiplevel and less above hip level. You will have to adjust the front the same way although you may not need to make as big of an adjustment on the front if you can stretch the inseam of the back pant it can be a liitle shorter.

Candi Cook
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Date: 11/25/11 1:26 PM

Barb,
Sorry, the fit tip on pattern review is titled " one step pant back alteration" by Karla Kizer. I t might make the alteration a little clearer. If after the alteration is done you feel the front is a little low you can lift up the front a little at the seam where you join the contour band

a7yrstitch
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 11/25/11 1:53 PM

We all need in town fitting buddies!

A couple of ideas.............

Since the waistband is not staying level with the adjustments, consider fitting the pants with no waistband until you get that part of your muslin working. Just cut the muslin as if for a pair of pants with a regular high setting waist. I like to add more at the top through the working stage. Makes it easier for me to tug and adjust and anchor in place with a wide elastic belt.

Fit you waistband as a separate garment.

Work on combining the two elements after you are happy with each of them independently..
.............................
I think I remember you getting a great fit on a jean cut. Wouldn't it be easier to take that silhouette that fits you and straighten out and widen the leg a little bit from the thigh down. And then overlay the waistband onto the newly fitted silhouette as above?

If you continue to work with the V8751 pattern pieces, consider cutting the back center seam the same as you see in men's trousers grading in extra fabric as you head to the waistband. When you look at your picture you probably want to reach back and grab fabric just below and outside of each side of your bottom. Drawing that fabric in and up may cause you to need fabric at that upper center back seam to manipulate.

Since you are changing the lines of the pants it seems that it would be easier to just utilize the components that you like from the Vogue pattern overlayed on a pattern that already fits.

Best wishes.
-- Edited on 11/25/11 1:55 PM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

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