SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > Aha moment??! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Aha moment??!
It's not 'athletic thighs'...
SVN
star
SVN
Intermediate
Ontario CANADA
Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 418
Send Message

      



Date: 11/25/11 12:13 PM

I am plagued by something Karla Kizer aptly named the 'trampoline effect': basically, on pants, fabric pulls tight between my thighs and CF, and stands away from my body. You can see the effect in this photo (although my stomach is usually pretty flat, I think I was pushing it out here to keep the waistband up!).
click here
The smallest part of me is my waist and I have very (relatively) big, front-heavy thighs, so the 'athletic thighs' fix has been suggested. But when I added fabric at the thigh (or even when I rip out the whole side seam entirely, thus giving the thigh as much room as it needs), the trampoline effect is still there.

I also note that when I yank up the CF and the drape of the fabric moves forward, the trampoline gets much, much worse.

I was playing with my most recent muslin today and found that if I left the CF open about an inch or two, the trampoline seemed to settle down and the pants look near normal. This suggests that if I add fabric at CF (and take off added bit at side seams) then the problem might go away?

Does this make sense? Has anyone else had a similar issue? And does anyone know why this would work? I was originally thinking I just needed a deeper crotch hook in the front, but maybe not?!
-- Edited on 11/27/11 3:10 PM --

Lena Merrin
star
Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 594
Send Message

      



Date: 11/25/11 6:35 PM

maybe the effect does not disappear after you have released the side seams because it is not where the fullness is required? Try slashing along the crease lines in front, adding to crotch curve might help as well, but I would try slashing first. I think your trousers would also benefit from sway back adjustment.
P.S. On the other hand, just re-read your post and think that front crotch and CF seam would be the place to start. :)
-- Edited on 11/25/11 6:38 PM --

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

SVN
star
SVN
Intermediate
Ontario CANADA
Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 418
Send Message

      



In reply to Lena Merrin


Date: 11/25/11 7:14 PM

Hi Lena, thanks for your thoughts! I did try slashing along the crease line on a previous muslin (different pattern, but same problem), and had no luck. That was disappointing as the large front thighs explanation made so much sense!
I'll see what happens with straightening the CF - fingers crossed.

AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2484
Send Message

      



In reply to SVN


Date: 11/27/11 2:36 PM

SVN, first off, clip your curves. You have no idea what a difference that will make.

Dont' yank up the CF. Pull the pants up, front and back, till the crotch is as close to your body as you feel comfortable with. This is your crotch depth. I find it helps if I put 1/2" elastic around my waist so I can pin CF and CB to the elastic.
Next on my check list is the circumference. It helps if you have someone to do this part for you. If your thighs are the problem then let the side seams out at the sides.
Now you can deal with crotch length. Crotch length is going to deal with how much your tummy and butt protrude.
Since you have a flat tummy it could be that you will need to pinch out fabric. Look at your photo and notice where the drag lines are pointing. Now reach down to that location and pinch out the fabric till the drag line are gone. Pin that pinch then take the pants off and continue to pin accross the pants tapering to nothing at the sides. Do this to both of the fronts. Now put the pants on. Did this help?

If your thighs are a problem then that is going to be a circumference problem, not a crotch length problem. IMO

Fitting pants for myself is always a pain as I hate taking the pants on and off, on and off, on and off. For some unknown reason I will keep putting my bottoms back on until about the 4th time I have to take them off to try on the muslin. After that I just sew in my underware. Thank goodness I now have a TNT pair of pants. No more sewing in my underware.
Check out Silhouette patterns web site. Peggy has some really good pants fitting webcasts that you can watch. I learned a lot watching these then I attended her pattering fitting class and learned a lot more.
-- Edited on 11/27/11 2:53 PM --

------
Ada

SVN
star
SVN
Intermediate
Ontario CANADA
Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 418
Send Message

      



In reply to AdaH


Date: 11/27/11 7:00 PM

Hi Ada, thanks very much for this. You're right: I should NOT be yanking up the CF. The Burda mag pattern said 'upper edge of waistband = waist'. As a result, I've been yanking the poor things up to hit me at the waist - and finding the crotch depth seriously lacking!

However, I've just looked again at the photos of the other 10 or so reviewers and their waistbands all seem to be sitting way below the waist!! This is very confusing...
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/search.pl?search=search&patternid=34959&CompanyID=3&PatternNumber=09-2009-113

I've got to say I'd be really surprised if my crotch depth (and that of the other reviewers) was 2 inches off the pattern block.

AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2484
Send Message

      



In reply to SVN


Date: 11/27/11 8:05 PM

Once you get the correct crotch depth then where the waist band goes is up to you. It can be anywhere you want it to be.
Maybe I am misunderstanding?

------
Ada

SVN
star
SVN
Intermediate
Ontario CANADA
Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 418
Send Message

      



In reply to AdaH


Date: 11/28/11 11:03 AM

Hi Ada,
Yes, I agree, I could put the waistband wherever I want it; however, I want them to look the way the pattern designer intended, so I want to adjust them so they do that.

These are pretty fitted, but because I'm not sure where they are supposed to sit, I'm struggling to know whether the hips, waist or crotch need altering! I want to get this right as I'm trying to get a feel for the Burda block, so I'll know in the future what basic alterations I will always need to do before I cut. This should save me time (and multiple muslins) in the future!

Hope that makes sense...

AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2484
Send Message

      



In reply to SVN


Date: 11/28/11 2:35 PM

SVN, I am so short from bust to waist and from waist to hip that the idea that any pattern will even come close to fitting me without lots of alterations is beyond wishfull thinking.
It has taken me years to figure out how to fit pants and understand that I have limited choices when it comes to design styles.
On the plus side I have long legs compared to the rest of me.

------
Ada

SVN
star
SVN
Intermediate
Ontario CANADA
Member since 4/20/09
Posts: 418
Send Message

      



In reply to AdaH


Date: 11/28/11 3:47 PM

I hope I get there, too! Although, I hope it doesn't take too long; I'm down to one pair of (heavily altered) RTW jeans and yoga pants. I spent hours trying on RTW trousers/jeans etc on the wknd and I couldn't bear to spend a penny on such ill-fitting things. I'm sure my time is better spent trying to get it right myself.

chenille
star
chenille  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Member since 7/4/11
Posts: 508
Send Message

      



Date: 12/2/11 11:16 PM

I am struggling with this same issue - on my 2nd muslin and 2nd pattern - first pattern hacked beyond repair...
I have muscular quads, but not so much rear- I'm getting closer to a solution with a greatly shortened front crotch and deeper, longer back crotch, but I haven't been able to get rid of that under rear excess without throwing dother things off kilter. I am considering using a dimond gusset in the crotch so I won't have to cut the back leg so wide. I can't believe there isn't an easier solution.
Has anyone tried Surefit Designs?

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Aha moment??!

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Sewing Basics
Sewing Basics

Class Details

Online Class
Leather 101
Leather 101

Class Details

Simplicity 1717

photo
by: Gatorbunny

Review
Butterick 5678

photo
by: MrsCharism...

Review
SewBaby Clutter Catchers Pattern

SewBaby Clutter Catchers Pattern

More Info
Runaround Bag

Runaround Bag

More Info

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.