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Forum > Patterns and Notions > Miss Moneypenny Pussycat blouse collar ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Miss Moneypenny Pussycat blouse collar
lestelle
lestelle
Intermediate
New Jersey USA
Member since 6/27/09
Posts: 54
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Date: 11/26/11 3:54 PM

I'm totally lost on making up the collar and tie and following the instructions. I'm hoping someone here can translate them so I'm able to follow without illustrations.

These are the instructions:
Prepare the tie collar: Join the tie panels to the collar ends, and press the seams open. Sew the 2 layers together all around the collar edge but leaving the neck edge free, making sure you match the collar points. You've already decided where you want to seal the tie collar in at your muslin fit (of course you made a muslin!) so bag out the tie collar along the neckline edge as far as you need to. Trim the corners of the seam allowances, press all seams open & turn the tie collar out. Press flat.

Apply the tie collar: Matching the center back & shoulder notches on the collar to the center back & shoulder seams on the blouse, pin the collar neck onto the neck edge. Pin the neck facing onto the neck edge, matching the shoulder seams of the facing to the shoulder notches of the tie collar, and the shoulder seams of the blouse. With the collar sandwiched between the blouse & facing, join the collar & the facing to the blouse in 1 operation, starting at the center back and sewing around the neckline and front, finishing at the hem. Repeat on the other side. Clip & press the seam allowance open, and understitch all around the neckline & front edge. Turn the facing to the inside of the blouse, & press. Sinkstitch the facings along the shoulder seams.

I'm at a total loss as to how to get this collar working. I really appreciate any help that you all can give me.

Sharon1952
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Sharon1952  Friend of PR
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Massachusetts USA
Member since 7/1/08
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In reply to lestelle


Date: 11/26/11 4:17 PM

Any chance of getting photos? Without seeing the shape of the pattern pieces it is hard to figure out.

------
Sewing: A creative mess is better than tidy idleness. ~Author Unknown

lestelle
lestelle
Intermediate
New Jersey USA
Member since 6/27/09
Posts: 54
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Date: 11/26/11 4:59 PM

Opps. Never thought of that.


I did combine the front facing with the lower facing to make one pattern piece--I didn't think I needed to add the bulk of a seam there.

lakaribane
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lakaribane
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HAITI
Member since 7/23/07
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Date: 11/26/11 6:46 PM

I think they want you to do something similar to the following with your collar first. These are the instructions from Simplicity 2614 which as a tie collar option:



So you would piece together your collar, from what I see of your photo, it's in two parts.

Good call on making one single facing, btw.

Then you put your finished collar (similar to Step 5 in my photo) against the neckline. I would baste it or sew it 3/8in if your SAs are 5/8in so you don't have to unpick anything.

Now, you pin the facing to the entire CF and back neckline, over the collar.

To recap, you are making a sandwich: RS of the blouse, then RS of the collar, then RS of the facing (WS is up).

HP wants you to sew the facing+collar in two time: from CB to CF hem one the right side, then return to CB neckline to CF hemline on the left side. Must be a RTW trick or something.

You would finish the collar as usual: grade the SAs, press the seam, press the seam with the facing folded, understitch, press the facing to the inside hem.

Hope this Helps and Good luck!


Edited to correct image size
-- Edited on 11/26/11 6:52 PM --

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

lestelle
lestelle
Intermediate
New Jersey USA
Member since 6/27/09
Posts: 54
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Date: 11/26/11 7:46 PM

Thanks lakaribane. Your instructions are what I would envision doing. The only place I'm having difficulty deciphering is the Collar Ties piece has you cut 4. So do you think I need to sew those together in pairs, then attach each pair to each collar end. Then sew the collar piece similar to your instructions?

lakaribane
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lakaribane
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Date: 11/27/11 11:43 AM

I'm wondering if you have an older pattern with mistakes. Here's the only review out of 7 that mentions cutting out the collar in " 2 pairs":

Review

Also, in all the photos of the back neckline of the finished blouse posted, the collar is clearly folded back.

Judging from the width of your pattern pieces, logic tells me that you should have 2 neckline collars + 4 tie collars= 2 completed collars.

Go see for yourself, here are the 7 reviews

FYI, the first reviewer back in 05 mentioned drafting errors and posted a photo of her collar piece and it looks like my photo so we are in the right frame of mind, at least.

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
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In reply to lakaribane


Date: 11/27/11 1:16 PM

lakaribane, what a nice person your are to put so much effort into helping lestelle figure this out.

------
Ada

lestelle
lestelle
Intermediate
New Jersey USA
Member since 6/27/09
Posts: 54
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Date: 11/27/11 1:35 PM

I was thinking the exact same thing AdaH!

Your help has been very appreciated lakaribane. I thought about leaving the collar off after I realized I had no clue what I was doing. But now it's kinda of a vendetta for me. I will get that collar on looking the way it's supposed to!

What has got me flummoxed is the fact that the tie shape isn't symmetrical.

lestelle
lestelle
Intermediate
New Jersey USA
Member since 6/27/09
Posts: 54
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Date: 11/27/11 1:49 PM

This is very embarrassing. I found my problem. I only cut 1 collar piece (on the fold). The printing on the pattern is for Cut 1 pair of fabric, Cut 1 piece of interfacing. I will now mark my pattern to Cut 4 instead of pair.

Of course I now have some creative piecing to do. Ugh!

Thank you for patient help!

lakaribane
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lakaribane
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In reply to lestelle


Date: 11/28/11 10:53 AM

Quote: lestelle
I only cut 1 collar piece (on the fold). (...)
Of course I now have some creative piecing to do. Ugh!
Thank you for patient help!

I'm happy to hear you found the problem. I would suggest using the back collar that you already have cut out on the fold as the "inner" collar i.e. the one against your neck vs the pieced one as the "outer" collar which will be hidden when folded back against the blouse.

Or something.

And I'm interested in doing a (another, long-sleeved) similar blouse so I was happy to help.

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

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