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Shawl Jacket FBA
Am I correctly moving this dart? (Pictures)
maeve100

maeve100
California USA
Member since 2/19/10
Posts: 83
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Date: 11/27/11 1:55 PM

Hi there,

I am trying to do an FBA on this pattern (Butterick 5295):
http://butterick.mccall.com/b5295-products-3157.php?page_id=872
Its just has a front and back pattern piece - no side front or side back. Its shaped through a really pretty set of darts. BUT - I've never done an FBA on a pattern piece like this so I am at a loss.

Here is my image for reference:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mcG9e5lNSVsKG7LwA40cttMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

In the above image steps A & B show me creating an FBA - my center front is 2" off of the pattern, so that's what I am spreading the pattern by. It creates a side dart which isn't appropriate for the look of the pattern - so then in step C I am attempting to move the dart to the lapel dart. I am following the directions from page 138 of Fit for Real People - where I cut and spread the lapel dart to take up the side bust dart. It leaves a huge lapel dart and the shoulder is now on a severe bias.

So my questions are:
1) I am a 36F, is it possible that you can't make a pattern with just the two stomach darts with my cup size - that you infact have to have a side dart?
2) Am I doing the FBA & lapel dart shift correctly?
3) If so, is it ok for the shoulder to be on such a bias? I am using 100% Melton wool for the project.
4) The lapel dart is HUGE - is this OK? The bottom/left (when looking at the photo) side of the dart is now longer than the top/right (when looking at the photo) side of the dart - how do you compensate for this? If I extend the top/right side into the shawl collar It will shorten the collar undesirably - but if I shorten the bottom left side of the dart then it will leave a gap of fabric just hanging out. So you can see why I'm at a loss.

Thank you so much for your time - I *really* really appreciate it!
Liz

Aixoise
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Aixoise  Friend of PR
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Member since 7/6/04
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Date: 11/27/11 2:02 PM

Can you rotate some of that dart into the two waist darts, dividing evenly?

maeve100

maeve100
California USA
Member since 2/19/10
Posts: 83
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In reply to Aixoise


Date: 11/27/11 2:07 PM

I honestly don't know how to do what you are suggesting - I have only made two successful FBAs in the past, so this fitting bit is still really hard for me to understand. I understand theoretically how to cut the distance of the new dart up, and that its supposed to go into the stomach darts - but I don't have a clue on how to make that happen. Are you able to possibly write it out step by step, or sketch it in Paint?

Again, thank you :-)

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to maeve100


Date: 11/27/11 2:11 PM

maeve100, I would not put all that FBA dart into the lapel. I think it is just to much.
I would keep the side dart. Also you need to move the center front section down. When you do an FBA it is adding not only depth but length.

I have never liked darts, but have at last come to the realization that with DD cups I really do need them unless I want the garment to end up looking like a box.

------
Ada

maeve100

maeve100
California USA
Member since 2/19/10
Posts: 83
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Date: 11/27/11 7:55 PM

Yea, I agree that it needs the room from the dart - but shouldn't there be a way to transfer the dart from the side to the stomach or lapel darts?

Silk Challis
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Silk Challis
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International UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 10/15/08
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Date: 11/28/11 6:38 AM

Before transferring the dart to the lapel, you need to add length to the center front to accommodate the larger bust.

The apex position marked with the star in your second picture does not look right to me: the new apex is right below the one you marked with the star, at the level where the side dart points to. It makes sense that a larger bust has a "lower" apex than a smaller one. This does not mean that it is actually low, it is just in a different place from the original pattern.

I checked the instructions in FFRP before answering your question and being a 34F myself this is how I would proceed.

To keep alterations separate, before starting I would cut the pattern horizontally at waist level. I would take care of waist and hips modifications later.

I would perform the standard FBA as you did (do not forget to add the length at center front).

Then I would transfer the new created side dart to the lapel and to the vertical darts, making sure that the final lapel dart is not too larger than the original lapel dart. There are instructions to do this on page 138 of FFRP. To move width to the vertical darts, I would add a third vertical dart. If you need more info on how to make several vertical darts, you can check latest Threads magazine (158) or a design manual. Vintagepattern.info used to have instructions on how to make multiple darts. There is still a version avaliable on the webarchive.

While working on the vertical darts, I take care of fitting the waist.

If you have Jackets for Real People, have a look at the alterations at page 53 and 54 to see if you need a tuck at the neckline and at the lapel.

Once I am satisfied with the fit of the front from the shoulder to the waist, I take care of the section from the waist to the hips. Make the hips fit and tape the two waist sections together, adding paper and drawing the legs of the third dart added previously at the waist.

Hope this helps.

maeve100

maeve100
California USA
Member since 2/19/10
Posts: 83
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Date: 11/29/11 0:23 AM

Oh my - this is perfect! I need some time to go and digest this, and try to figure it out. Now if only I remembered where I placed the latest Threads! Time to go a hunting!

Thank you, I will report back once I research vertical darts :-).

Liz

lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
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In reply to Silk Challis


Date: 11/29/11 2:41 AM

Quote: Silk Challis
Vintagepattern.info used to have instructions on how to make multiple darts. There is still a version avaliable on the webarchive.


Wow, that page is an amazing resource. I have just skimmed through it and am very excited about making some pattern alterations based on their instructions and suggestions. Thank you so much for posting it!
Silk Challis
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Silk Challis
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In reply to lareine


Date: 11/29/11 1:46 PM

Quote: lareine

Wow, that page is an amazing resource. I have just skimmed through it and am very excited about making some pattern alterations based on their instructions and suggestions. Thank you so much for posting it!

I agree, it is an amazing resource. Unfortunately vintagesewing.info is not available anymore and who knows how long the webarchive wil store those pages.
-- Edited on 11/29/11 1:52 PM --
Silk Challis
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Silk Challis
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In reply to maeve100


Date: 11/29/11 1:51 PM

Quote: maeve100
Oh my - this is perfect! I need some time to go and digest this, and try to figure it out. Now if only I remembered where I placed the latest Threads! Time to go a hunting!



Thank you, I will report back once I research vertical darts :-).



Liz

I am happy it helped. I played a little with a small not in scale pattern today to help you visualize the steps.

The pictures are available on flickr at the following address:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/challis9/sets/72157628208586309/

I am adding the descriptions now.
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