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Learning to use my serger I need a plan
stirwatersblue Intermediate KS USA Member since 2008 Posts: 1737	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 11/27/11 5:57 PM I got the Brother 1034d for my birthday in July. This summer, I put it through its paces, practiced the different stitches &c, and made sure I understood how to do everything. Ordered a bunch of nice knits from Fabric.com's 4th of July sale, and stocked up on serger cones and woolly nylon. Read the Singer _Sewing With an Overlocker_ book and _Successful Serging_ cover-to-cover. I am totally prepared and ready to go! But since then, I haven't done anything with it! (This is probably why I hadn't gotten one before now.) When the holidays are over, I'd like to tackle this again, this time actually *making* something! I have a stack of basic knit patterns (I've been too scared to try on my regular SM) and the fabric to go with them... I just need a kick in the behind and some kind of plan to get myself in gear. Not sure why I'm focusing on knits, exactly, except that I feel totally confident working with wovens on my SM, and thought the knits (which make up 90% of my day-to-day wardrobe) would be a good motivator to learn the serger. (For wovens, I was planning to make a medieval-style veil by doing a rolled hem on a length of synthetic chiffon, but I haven't done it yet.) I have: Kwik Sew 3393 and some sweatshirt fleece for the top, and some French terry to make the pants. Butterick 5511, plus some poly/cotton interlock for the turtleneck, and a flocked rayon jersey that would make a nice wrap top. OOP McCall 5756, and some really beautiful grey velour and jacquard trim for View C, and more French terry for view A/B. I was thinking the simplest would be either the Kwik Sew sweatshirt or the shorter McCall jacket, followed by the Butterick turtleneck. I have been having that thought since August. Yet I can't seem to get going! I would *love* to tackle this before I need to start sewing for our Fair season in the spring. Ideas? Suggestions? Kick in the behind? How do I talk myself into getting started and just doing this? Thanks!! ------ ~Gem in the prairie
TamNearPDX Beginner WA Member since 2008 Posts: 99	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 11/27/11 8:21 PM It seems as if you have a plan started already... I got my serger during the holidays last year and had a spurt of serger projects, but I also got a new SM this summer and that has really taken the place of playing with my serger (although I do try to at least finish seams in the garments I have made for my DD. I need a plan too. I know a lot of people keep a list of projects that they have in the queue. I keep a partial list on Evernote so I'm able to stay focused when I'm at the fabric store(s). Keep us updated!!
hazelnut   USA Member since 2009 Posts: 1764	Login to reply to this post In reply to stirwatersblue Like this post Date: 11/27/11 8:54 PM Stir, I'd start with the KS pattern, even though it doesn't look like it has both SM and Serger instructions like, say, KS2900, which was my first pattern. This is how I started and how I still do it...and don't forget, you will have 1/4" SA's. (which I feel is much easier than the 5/8" when doing the mental math for measuring and determining which size to use before cutting). I usually allow a 1/2" or more SA. I SM baste or stitch each of my seams as I go along fitting *BEFORE* I serge them. It takes a bit longer, but I have less fitting and serging mistakes that way. I do the basting at 1/4" from the edge, and either make adjustments or if the fit is good, I serge over stitching line (to the inside) so the serged stitching is the seam I finish up with and my basting stitch is either embedded in the serging or cut off...and it ends up approximately at the pattern's original 1/4" seamline. The v-neckband will probably be the trickiest part sew around with the serger - I'm finally getting that point down pat in the past few days. I would definitely stitch the neckband piece to the neckline with your SM (or by hand) first, as it's easy for the knits to slip or move with the serger. (I've tried wonder tape, but it's tricky too around the vee and with no movement, you can pinch the fabric and get a gather). I've missed catching that third layer in many spots of the bottom (body) piece while attaching the folded neckband to it, because it slipped away (even when pinned - you have to remove them before serging) and it's hard to view while serging . You'll need to play around with your SM stitch tension and pressure foot for each knit so the pressure is correct and it doesn't stretch it too much - same goes with the serger - but start out with the basic settings for the Brother and tweak the settings it if necessary. You may also need to adjust your tensions on the Brother. For most knits, my needles are at 4, but my loopers are set at 5. If I leave the loopers at 4, the stitch is loose and loopy (no pun intended) lol. I personally wouldn't start out using wooly nylon in the loopers to test regular seams out. Everything I have serged to this point has been with regular Maxi-lock serger thread - even some 4-way stretch knits. I haven't had a problem with thread breakage once I have the settings correct. I do "have" some wooly nylon, but haven't tried it yet. Thought I would use it more for a rolled or lettuce hem and, not for regular serger seams (or in the bobbin of my SM- which I have not yet tried yet). Take some old t-shirts and serge around the hems, arms, shoulders, necks etc. to get a feel for your serger on kints. It's faster than the SM - I used my bare foot at first, since I wasn't very used to using a foot peddle - I had a vintage cabinet SM with the knee lever for power, my serger speed was all over the place. lol Here's your kick+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++there you go!!!! P.S. I finished two KS2900 v-neck tops this week - one a couple hours ago. One is a 100% cotton solid color interlock and the other a cotton/lycra ribknit. The cotton/lycra ribknit is a print and stretchier, so mistakes and my FBA bust darts are almost *invisible*....just a FYI. ETA IMHO, don't use your good knits for your first attempts. Re-watch the CD that came with the serger - I watched mine at least a half-dozen times throughout the course of using my Brother and still refer to sections for help - and the handbook is helpful too. Also, watching the Threads video by Sarah V. on attaching neckbands video was helpful in general, though not so much with the v-necks (or sergers), which have been 90% of my necklines. You should do fine once you get a feel for it - you're a much better and more seasoned sewer than I. Good luck! -- Edited on 11/28/11 4:16 PM --
stirwatersblue Intermediate KS USA Member since 2008 Posts: 1737	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 11/30/11 8:44 PM Wow, hazelnut, thanks so much! I've read and re-read your post several times and wanted to make sure I digested everything before I replied. I love the tip about machine basting first. I guess one thing that's holding me back from starting all of this is fitting. I haven't decided what size/s to make, but should probably begin by tissue-fitting my dress form double. (I have had the Kwik Sew pattern since I bought my new *sewing machine...* back in 2008!!) ...I suppose really my FIRST step needs to be clearing off the sewing table, which has become a catchall since Fair season ended. Which I'll have to do anyway, since it's also the dining table, and we'll need it for Christmas and New Year's dinner! LOL So the current plan (which I reserve the right to change my mind on at any moment): 1. Study pattern, look at finished garment measurements, pick a size 2. Clean off table 3. Trace/tissue fit pattern Thanks! ------ ~Gem in the prairie
stirwatersblue Intermediate KS USA Member since 2008 Posts: 1737	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 12/1/11 5:15 PM Ok, I have cleaned off the table, and gotten the serger out. YAY! It occurred to me that I have a needlework project to start, and the first step there is finishing the fabric edges so they don't ravel. Usually I whip stitch them by hand, but NOW I HAVE A SERGER! WOO-HOO! *** ETA: Sat down with the serger this afternoon and practiced my rolled hem, with the plan to move from mockup chiffon to real chiffon veil fabric... but I forgot to raise the "antenna" thing, and broke my lower looper thread. Since I had to rethread that, I also rethreaded the needle, and went ahead and serged my needlework fabric edges. Yay! I have OFFICIALLY completed my first serger project. You're all impressed. I can tell. -- Edited on 12/1/11 7:05 PM -- ------ ~Gem in the prairie
Pj3g   Intermediate WI USA Member since 2011 Posts: 177	Login to reply to this post In reply to stirwatersblue Like this post Date: 12/9/11 8:23 PM You posted awhile ago, but here are some tips anyway--in case you haven't started. I would go with the KS pattern first too. Knit fabric should be laid out on your table in a single layer. Nothing should be hanging off the table. After you lay it out, let it rest. Just the handling of it can make it stretch so you have to give it a little while to spring back. Make your pattern pieces as whole pieces. In other words, any piece that has you lay on a fold, make that pattern piece whole. Knit fabric should not be folded to cut. And draw on long grain lines. Lay pattern pieces on fabric making sure grain line is same distance from selvage at beginning and end of your long grain line. Set weights on grain lines. It is much better to use weights than pins for knits as the handling of the fabric for pinning can stretch it. If you don't have pattern weights use soup cans or books. A rotary cutter works best to cut out with for knits and is so easy to roll around a pattern because the fabric is only one layer but if you don't have one then use your dress shears and cut around the pattern pieces trying not to lift your shears off the table. A serger has two sets of feed dogs, front and back. And you have a differential feed lever which controls them. I am sure your serger differential feed lever is set in the middle making both feed dogs feed the same. But you might have to tweak the DF so this is what you do to ensure success. Turning your lever one way forces more fabric under the presser foot and the opposite way restricts the amount of fabric going under the presser foot. So after you cut out your fabric, take some of the scraps--2 together as if you were going to serge a seam. Measure the length of the scraps. Let's say they measure 10 inches. OK, now serge them and then remeasure. If you've serged them and they still measure 10 inches then you do not need to adjust your DF lever. If they measure less than or more than 10 inches, then you will need to put your lever up or down a bit. Just keep testing until you get the same measurement before and after serging the scraps together. Once you get your scraps to measure the same, then you will know that the size of the pattern you started with is the size you will end up with. I hope this makes sense to you and helps you understand how your serger works. And I wish you much success! ------ Thank you Lord for my Mother who taught me the joy of sewing.
hazelnut   USA Member since 2009 Posts: 1764	Login to reply to this post In reply to stirwatersblue Like this post Date: 12/10/11 3:33 PM I'm impressed! Sorry I haven't responded sooner, thanksgiving week I was trying to do as much as I could before my 2nd wrist surgery. I had my 2nd carpal tunnel release on Dec. 1 (the 2nd hand), and haven't been on the computer that much. I could only type for a while with both hands still recovering....but I am very impressed that you finally tried out the Brother! it really is fun, isn't it? regarding the antenna - can't tell you 'how' many times I started with them down mostly in the beginning - but once in a while, i still do it. The default setting of 4's across the board seem to work better on wovens than knits and I've also found I've had to tweak the loopers more now than I did in the first 6 months. pj3g gave you some great advice and if you search for the 'beginners sewalong with knits', you will also find a bunch more. my advice was more from a 'using the brother serger' for the first time and getting used to it, than the knit end. pj's knit advice is helpful to me too, esp. the one for serging and then measuring the stretch. I never tried that, I just kept doing strips until they weren't rippled anymore. There is so much I still don't know about sewing, I hate to offer advice, but I do tend to look at most things threw a newbie's eyes, so I guess that, in itself, along with all the mistakes I've made, may be somewhat helpful. lol I won't be able to sew now for a while. I have to say something regarding the rotary cutting though. don't feel bad if you are not used to using a rotary cutter and make some errors - practice with it first too. I got one when starting, but it took me some time to get a feel for it and have some control. after a lot of cutting errors, I've started using scissors - I feel I'm more accurate. I couldn't reach well enough around the curves to get the rotary right in spots. I guess i will be trying to use it again though, since it will be a long time 'till I can cut with my right hand, so maybe I will finally master the rotary. lol (if you haven't used a rotary, you will also need some sort of mat to cut on - cardboard, good dining tables or flooring won't do!) Keep up the good work
GBK   Intermediate GERMANY Member since 2007 Posts: 470	Login to reply to this post In reply to stirwatersblue Like this post Date: 12/11/11 3:08 AM Quote: stirwatersblue I love the tip about machine basting first. I guess one thing that's holding me back from starting all of this is fitting. I haven't decided what size/s to make, but should probably begin by tissue-fitting my dress form double. If your biggest fear is the fitting, then the machine basting will be the kick you're looking for! If you like tees with negative ease (where tissue-fitting may not be optimal), it works well to measure a well-fitting RTW tee you own and copy the lines, ie the armsyce. Compare the measurments and the form of the armsyce curves against your pattern and make any necessary adjustments*. Machine baste and do any finetuning as nessary; mark new lines and transfer them to the pattern pieces. Serge your tee in no time, admire your perfect-fitting tee in the mirror, and do a happy dance! Obviously, the same approach works with non-negative ease patterns. I found the shoulder/armsyce to be the trickiest part to get right for my figure (in both RTW tees and patterns) but once this was solved, serging was fun. _______________________________________________________ * stretch factor of the RTW tee and your fabric of choice should be comparable. -- Edited on 12/11/11 3:15 AM -- ------ Happy Sewing, GBK
stirwatersblue Intermediate KS USA Member since 2008 Posts: 1737	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 12/11/11 4:36 PM Oh, good heavens, no--of course I haven't started yet! LOL I'll probably get to it after the holidays; some unexpected projects dropped into my lap this week, and as usual I totally underestimated all the regular holiday prep. But the bonus is that yesterday, I serged the edges of some fabric for an apron for my MIL before I pre-washed it. Had an issue with the looper threads hanging off the edge, and a little tinkering with the looper tensions fixed that right up! Yes, it's the small things that excite me. ;D *** I've been using the edge of the plate as a seam guide; I think it's about 5/16". Probably not a recommended technique, but it's making it easier for quick edge finishes, at least. ------ ~Gem in the prairie
SecondHandRogue Advanced Beginner RI USA Member since 2005 Posts: 338	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 1/11/12 8:16 PM How's the serging going, any progress in the past month? I'm hoping to kern to serge this year too, maybe you can inspire me

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