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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Crotch Curve Shapes ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Crotch Curve Shapes
What is good starting crotch curve shape for me?
Weif
Weif  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/4/11 2:41 PM

Hi,

I've been working on trying to fit a pair of Burda trousers. The front fits well and the sides hang straight but the behind is giving me a lot of trouble. It got me thinking about the various crotch curve shapes that I have seen in patterns. Some are more L shaped while others are rounder at the bottom. So I'm wondering, for my shape (I have a pretty droopy behind, it isn't flat but definitely not protruding -- that is my tummy), would I be better to start the fitting with a L shape or rounder (Burda type) shape?

Weif

KathySews
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In reply to Weif


Date: 12/4/11 3:10 PM

I was having problems with the back of my pattern also. I sent photos to Judy Kessinger of FitNice (I took a class with her) and she suggested a small flat bottom adjustment. Worked great! Might be worth a try.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 12/4/11 4:18 PM

For low bum the back crotch curve must be scooped lower than seat line

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www.iconicpatterns.com

Innessa
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Date: 12/6/11 8:06 PM

Would you be so kind as to elaborate on the adjustment that you are suggesting. I just want to be sure that I understand your directions before I begin messing with my new pants.
Thank you in advance,
Inna

Elona
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In reply to Weif


Date: 12/6/11 9:31 PM

This is what a young woman's crotch curve looks like in sagittal section:

http://catalog.nucleusinc.com/generateexhibit.php?ID=5524

As you can see, it is a rather wide U shape, with the back half of the U lower than the front. This is the normal configuration, and it really does not vary much from woman to woman, no matter the size, with these exceptions:

(a) With age, the lower portion of the U-shaped curve, the backside, gets lower, alas, and

(b) Some people with weight problems or those with less elastic skin may develop a kind of 'apron' in front that will lower the front curve in much the way that gravity tends to lowers the back part for most of us.

That said, long experience in sewing leads me to believe that the most anatomically correct crotch curve is found in Burda patterns.

Weif
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In reply to Elona


Date: 12/8/11 2:05 PM

Thanks Lena, I am trying to cut down the curve to accomodate my rear.

And thanks Elona for the cross sectional version -- since I have always considered my rear "droopy", I guess in fact that I'm "normal" -- yaaa, no more droopy butt, just a normal female behind that is descending with age.I'm continuing to work with my Burda trousers and have them pretty close to fitting.

I now have one other question though wrt cutting down the curve -- how do I know when to add length to the rise (across my rear) vs cut down the curve? Both will lower the curve for my rear.

allycovey
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Date: 12/8/11 2:38 PM

Yeah, as a young woman I just had no butt. Then in my late 30's I started to get a tiny butt I was soooooo happy but then as soon as I got it , CRASH, it fell to the floor ha ha ha. Anway it is nice to hear others have the same problem I am anxious to tryout the lower bum cut on a pair of pants. I did something on some cargo pants and ended up giving them to my daughter - who still has a nice butt- So after christmas stuff is done and one more shirt for DH ( because he is wearing the same two shirts all week long) I am makin gsome pants.

I hope you post some pics of your pants. Oh and have you seen that Threads article on crotch curves? I would love to read that whole thing...

woggy
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In reply to allycovey


Date: 12/8/11 3:44 PM

Allcovey,

What Thread's issue are you referencing?

Woggy

allycovey
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Date: 12/8/11 4:43 PM

There is a great article on fitting pants and the crotch curve in Threads magazine I first heard about it on a thread here and found it. The article is from Dec/Jan. 2006 All I could read is the article preview though.
here is the link Threads article

Weif
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In reply to allycovey


Date: 12/8/11 8:26 PM

Hi allycovey,

I saw that and only read the preview so far too. But, I have ordered the archive CD with all Threads articles so I'll get to read it in full soon.

I think that this link from the PR Knowledge base on Fitting- Pants talks about the similar concept of body space. It doesn't use this term but it talks about length and depth from front to back -- the space for your body. I found it interesting
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/showdigest.pl?id=315

Weif

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